Mark L

Found online, not mine. There's a package deal for two Avantis for sale west of Portland, OR. One is a restoration project, a 63 R1 with automatic, power steering, power brakes, air conditioning, and radio. White exterior with turquoise interior. The other is a parts car. [see post #4 below for an updated link]

Now that I've had an opportunity to do more research on this topic in both this Forum and at the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum, I've decided it will be better if I first find someone with a late 64 Avanti or early Avanti II with the tilt option who will allow me to sit in the driver's seat of his or her car and see for myself if it gives me the improved access to the driver's seat that I want, before I go to all the labor and expense to make the swap.

Yes, that's correct. I drove my Lark with an automatic shifter on the column much more than I did my Avanti before I sold the Lark last week. I wasn't thinking. Thanks for the reminder.

If possible, I'd like to swap out the straight steering column in my 1963 Avanti for a tilt column from a 1964 or Avanti II (whatever would be as close to a direct swap as possible).

This is a link to a pdf file with part interchange information from the Bob Johnstone website. Shock absorber information is on page 9. Pay attention to the notes under the table. In some cases, minor modifications may need to be made to get a particular brand and part number to fit. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/njnagel/interchange2.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjTzs3S5OCGAxWQBUQIHXSbDtcQFnoECBwQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2dNLeK8hfODO9dA1zEmjYV

My apologies for taking so long. I was not able to find the KYB part number for the front shocks I installed on my Lark. Good sources of data will be the Bob Johnstone Studebaker information webpages and the Studebaker Drivers Club website. Similar questions have been asked and answered.

Some others may want to confirm, but I've seen some discussions on the topic that Koni or Bilstein shocks are a good choice. They are more expensive, but are also much better quality. Someone who has installed Bilsteins may be able to provide the front and rear part numbers. I'd actually like to know that answer because I need to replace the front and rear shocks on my Avanti. My rear shocks are really worn out. A few years ago I installed KYB shocks on the front of the 62 Lark Daytona hardtop I just sold this past weekend. They are good shocks and were still working well. I'd provide the part number for them, but I gave all the maintenance records to the new owner. I might be able to dig up a receipt in my email when I get a chance to look.

There's a low mileage 1964 Avanti R1 currently available on eBay. On the SDC Forum, user 6hk71400 said he was familiar with the history of the car up to about 10-15 years ago. At that time it was known to have 12,000 miles. It is currently showing 19,000+ miles. https://www.ebay.com/itm/387063397768?itmmeta=01HZRCQ8A74T9HSRR2D9Y5G1K9&hash=item5a1ec6bd88:g:lL8AAOSwQvNmYfbf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwPNcK%2BWjJQXybF7NYRCPo4zoGKDdEmHPVp2QhID91lm9fIMBSPOaEnsFHzcUIJuRMFMGgAkKnttPpCIhAClo4Rriq%2FS2m5jMfteY2EpIkDA3sV%2FuSxT6Zec1sely6JCCd2nsZuzEqYxgK3fONeHXPrdnVmVBV37jWloTsBtm24BvBHO7m0NsNHmU4ag%2BsQ8FDUjkfIrgKv7Xd%2FbIHd47uhJwPR2FKTHYrSBxNxQ%2B%2Fa51LdC08ejm1M1tqN3NNfXGKA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5aF3Yz-Yw

Five gallons

Wow, hardly any surface rust. Very nice.

The graphic from the manual that 64studeavanti provided shows a fuel pump for a R2 supercharged engine with three fittings. The R1 only has two fittings, the one at the bottom left is the supply from the gas tank. The fitting on the right side is the output from the pump that sends gas up to the carburetor and to the return line back to the tank. The nipple that points to the right is the one that connects to the return line back to the tank.

If it's adjacent to fuel supply line, it appears to be a similar issue I recently had on my 63 R1. Some of the parts are listed in the parts manual, but they are not illustrated. A 1/4 inch inside diameter fuel hose should connect from the T on the output side of the fuel pump to that line. At the T, there is a special 1/4 inch hose nipple that threads into one of the 1/8 NPT ports on the T. The inside of the nipple is plugged with solder and a small metering hole drilled through it to control how much gas gets routed back to the fuel tank. I recently ordered a replacement nipple from Myer's Studebaker Parts in Ohio. Without me asking, they also sent a new T and a new flare fitting for the supply line to the carburetor that connects to the other port on the T. All three parts with shipping was about $40.

Yes, that's him. I was in southern California on a business trip last year, so I was able to inspect 63R-1204 in person at his home and took a lot of photographs before purchasing it. I recognize the backdrop landscaping in the BaT ads.

I bought 63R-1204 from him last year. I've not met him in person, but we spoke and texted during the transaction. He is an AOAI member, but I don't know if he is active on this Forum. He is a personal friend of Silverplate. He really likes Avantis. He likes finding them, putting some money into them to make them better, then moving them to those who will enjoy them.

I chatted with Stuart. Even though there are always several for sale all over the US, he would prefer to inspect the car in person before the purchase, which will limit the choice to those available in the Pacific Northwest. He'll find one, but it will probably take longer since the pool will be smaller.

Two weeks ago I ordered the hose fitting from Myer's Studebaker Parts, and it was delivered on May 4. I installed it Friday evening May 10 and had a successful test drive. The problem has been fixed. Thank you for everyone's comments and information.

From what I understand, the location of the start of the return line (at the fuel pump or closer to the carburetor at the fuel filter) is not model year dependent. It was changed at a certain serial number. The Authenticity Guide indicates return line at the filter is usually seen on later '64 models.

I called Myer's Studebaker Parts. They currently don't have any, but they make up another batch when they run out, so they'll be making more next week and sending one to me.

I appreciate everyone's help. I'm definitely missing the return hose nipple with the .043 orifice. The one I installed is a standard nipple for a 1/4 inch inside diameter return hose. The inside diameter of the nipple is probably too large and allowing too much fuel to bypass back to the tank. I checked my shop and parts manuals. The 0308-8 group of parts is for the return line, and one nipple p/n 1558295 is listed, but there's no other description, and the parts are not illustrated. Is p/n 1558295 the correct nipple I'm looking for? I'll call around to see if I can find one. If not, I imagine I can make a brass plug to fit inside a standard nipple and drill a .043 hole through it.

My Avanti is an early 1963 model with the return line coming off the side of the fuel pump. R1204. The "T" fitting was still installed on the side of my pump. The port for the return line was plugged with a NPT pipe plug. I didn't remove the T from the pump since the line to the carburetor was still attached. One of my suspicions was that the return line needed a restriction somewhere to maintain adequate flow to the carburetor. I mentioned I installed a check valve in the return line. I suspect the rhythmic nature of the problem may be from the fuel pump developing enough pressure in the return line to overcome the cracking pressure of the check valve. My theory is: the engine runs fine while the check valve is closed, but once it opens, the fuel flow back to the tank is unrestricted and causes reduced flow to the carburetor and the rough running. Once the pressure in the return line drops off, the check valve closes and allows fuel to resume flowing to the carburetor until pressure builds up again, then the cycle repeats. Yes, it caused the car to buck between proper acceleration and poor acceleration as the cycle repeated itself. About one half to one second of running poor before switching back, then one half to one second of running well before switching back again. As long as I drove it easy, there was no problem.

Is the restrictor listed as a stand-alone part in the parts catalog?

I don't think they are the original. Is the restrictor in the fittings at the pump for the return line? What is the inside diameter of the restrictor?

I have a copy of the shop manual, so I'll be consulting it. The current filter has a solid metal housing, so I can't see the condition of the filter without destroying it. I'm going to replace it to be sure it's clean. I'll cut the old one open to see what is inside. The return line was capped off long ago, based on the patina of the plug and the poor condition of the hose. The maintenance receipts I have show the fuel pump was replaced within the past 15 years or so, but no reason as to why, or why the return line was capped off when it was replaced. It might have been the "solution" to this issue. Before I restored the return line to the original condition, it was running fine. That's why I want to test the output of the pump. It may have sufficient capacity under load with the return line capped off, but insufficient capacity under load when the return line is connected.

Thanks, A0136. This is very helpful. Today I was talking to a fellow gearhead about this where I work, and he suggested I install a fuel pressure gauge and measure the output pressure under various conditions to help troubleshoot the problem. These numbers will help.

Thanks. I had heard there were differences between the pumps, but I don't know what they are. A few weeks ago I got the return line reconnected at the pump where it had been capped off in the past, and I installed a check valve in the return line at the tank, and replaced all the rubber lines. The test drive to fill the tank was fine. This past Saturday I drove the Avanti to a SDC chapter meeting, and it was really struggling. I punched the gas pedal to leave a four-way stop, and the engine bogged down repeatedly in a rythmic kind of way. It was fine on flat ground, but I couldn't accelerate going uphill like it was starving for gas. It was about 75 degrees on the way to lunch. On the way home, I didn't have any problems. Both the ambient temperature and the engine were about 5 degrees cooler going home. I'm just wondering if the pump is going bad, not the correct pump, or something else I should check. This photograph will help. I also have a '62 Lark Daytona with a 259, so I'll compare the two pumps.