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Posts posted by Parklife

  1. If you're referring to the brass hexagonal block that the master cylinder and all the brake lines attach to, it's mounted on the inside of the frame rail, slightly behind the front suspension crossmember, and it's held in place with a 5/16-18 bolt, and there should be threads cut into the frame.  If you're missing it, there's about a 3/16" thick washer between the block and the frame to space it off slightly.



  2. 15 hours ago, Leo B said:

    How about upper one? Same problem? Should be same thread. 1.134 - 1.136

    The uppers were a much tighter fit - just large enough for the tip of the caps to pilot in, but they required cranking them in the rest of the way with some determination. The bores on those were 0.020" to 0.030" smaller diameter than the lower control arms.

    The lowers, well, that's a story.  The first set - the originals on the car - were slightly bent.  The second set were NOS replacements, that FedEx managed to lose somewhere as they transited through Portland.  This is the third set.  But now needing a fourth set? I'm getting a real black-cat, Friday the 13th kind of feeling from this. The universe wants this car off the road and is prepared to do everything in its power to make it happen.

    At any rate, thank you everyone for reassuring me that I haven't lost my mind.  Perhaps about other things, but definitely not about this, at least.

  3. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the purpose of coarsely-threaded caps that retain the lower pin into the control arm is that they're supposed to thread themselves into the steel of the lower control arms, so that when they're tightened up the caps have torqued up to the control arm, thus allowing the center pin to turn freely inside.

    If I have my understanding correct, then there's no way this - on a set of NOS control arms with no threading in them whatsoever - should happen?

    The ID of the bore on the control arms is 1.140" using my $8 Amazon digital caliper, while the OD of the threads ~1.136", giving me a nice four-thousandths slip-fit.

  4. 17 hours ago, brad said:

    What year is your Avanti? Later cars in the 80s had the type you show that was on your car. They are a bear to curve properly to fit well.

    It's an early '63 - it looks like the car was last restored in '93 so that makes sense that the later trim pieces may still have been available NOS at the time.

  5. A part of me knows the answer to this already and is afraid to ask, but:

    While attempting to replace the outer window weather seals, I'm noticing that the trim on my car is one molded piece — just a thin strip of metal with some flocked rubber molded on top of it.  All the instructions say to remove the old weatherstrip rubber from a stainless-steel channel and slide in the new ones, but there's the rub: With the pieces on the car, there are no channels for the replacement weatherstrips to slide into, nor clips that were holding the trim in place. The replacement rubber piece is on the left, the trim that was installed on my car on the right. They're not even the same width:


    This suspicion I have — that I'm not dealing with the correct pieces on my car — is doubly borne out by the way the trim is attached to the door.  There appear to be four large, perhaps 8mm or so, holes in the door.  From my understanding, there should be four push-in clips that retain the stainless weatherstrip frame to the door using these holes, and one screw holding it in place at the end.  As you can see in the next picture, none of those were used on my car.  Instead, it has tiny holes drilled into the door frame where teeny self-tapping flathead screws were used instead:


    Correct me if I'm wrong, but it does appear that what I ended up with on my car are something entirely different that the previous owner just kind of slapdash adapted to fit an Avanti door, right?

    It appears that I'll need a pair of the original Avanti weatherstrip channels. Which leads me to my next question, then:  Does anyone have a pair of the original weatherstrip channels they would like to sell, or suggestions as to what could be substituted as an assembly to replace them?  The rubber, as you can see above, has cracked and torn off in several places so I can't even feign ignorance and put the old ones back in.



  6. I just happen to have a power window relay sitting on my desk while reading this, so hopefully this helps.  Your underhood PW circuit will have two components to it - a circuit breaker that's designed to trip over 20A and reset when it cools back down, and a relay that switches power on and off to the power window circuit when the key is on. (Note: I have an early '63, your wiring might have some slight differences.)

    The Circuit Breaker
    Like you guessed, the two-wire box under the relay is a circuit breaker. One side connects to the starter solenoid so it has a good, high-amp source of B+, and the other side connects to the PW relay.  It should look something like this.

    The Power Window Relay
    Every relay is going to have at least four connections - one to supply power and one to ground the relay coil, one that supplies the higher-power source that needs to be switched by the relay, and one that is the output of the relay to the circuit being switched.  I've attached pictures of (from what I understand, original) relay here.  The four connections are:

    • IGN is the source of key-on power that energizes the relay coil.  On my '63 this is connected to the voltage regulator about a foot away and is yellow with a black stripe.  It's my understanding that later Avantis changed this so the power window relay is energized when the key is in 'accessory' instead of just 'on', so your '64 may be different
    • Ground is done through the frame of the relay. Being a fiberglass body, there will be a white wire connected to the bracket that mounts the relay, and that white wire is what provides the ground for the relay coil.  With both IGN and Ground connected, you can make the relay energize and click - you'll hear the coil sucking the contacts closed inside the relay can
    • B is the high-amp power source that the relay is switching. The other side of the circuit breaker is what supplies power to this terminal.  On my car this is black.
    • W is output from the relay to the power window circuit of the car.  This is also black on my car.

    So for any of those replacement relays posted, the three terminals will be IGN, B, and W.  The mounting bracket of any of those relays will be the ground for the relay coil.  Hopefully the replacement relays come with a diagram showing the pinouts, so you can tell which is the coil positive connection and which two will be the switched terminals.

    Alternatively, you can find some nice Bosch-style relays that can switch up to 30A and use a standardized pin-out, which has become the de facto standard for automotive relays for the last 40 years.  If you do, the wiring for those I've attached also.

    Best of luck!




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