Parklife

New York

It's an early '63 - it looks like the car was last restored in '93 so that makes sense that the later trim pieces may still have been available NOS at the time.

Thanks, @Dunkin and @Kodjo. From what I can tell, this car was last restored in the 90s, back when the standards for 'restored' were a lot more, shall we say, freewheeling than they are now, so that makes sense.

A part of me knows the answer to this already and is afraid to ask, but: While attempting to replace the outer window weather seals, I'm noticing that the trim on my car is one molded piece — just a thin strip of metal with some flocked rubber molded on top of it. All the instructions say to remove the old weatherstrip rubber from a stainless-steel channel and slide in the new ones, but there's the rub: With the pieces on the car, there are no channels for the replacement weatherstrips to slide into, nor clips that were holding the trim in place. The replacement rubber piece is on the left, the trim that was installed on my car on the right. They're not even the same width: This suspicion I have — that I'm not dealing with the correct pieces on my car — is doubly borne out by the way the trim is attached to the door. There appear to be four large, perhaps 8mm or so, holes in the door. From my understanding, there should be four push-in clips that retain the stainless weatherstrip frame to the door using these holes, and one screw holding it in place at the end. As you can see in the next picture, none of those were used on my car. Instead, it has tiny holes drilled into the door frame where teeny self-tapping flathead screws were used instead: Correct me if I'm wrong, but it does appear that what I ended up with on my car are something entirely different that the previous owner just kind of slapdash adapted to fit an Avanti door, right? It appears that I'll need a pair of the original Avanti weatherstrip channels. Which leads me to my next question, then: Does anyone have a pair of the original weatherstrip channels they would like to sell, or suggestions as to what could be substituted as an assembly to replace them? The rubber, as you can see above, has cracked and torn off in several places so I can't even feign ignorance and put the old ones back in.

Hi @Kodjo, unfortunately I already sent out the extras I had.

All spoken for. Thanks, folks!

One left.

You got it, Jim. I'm stopping by the post office this evening so I'll message you with the tracking number once it gets issued. Wes

Whoever pulled the single NAPA 660-1000 heater valve repair kit that I'd ordered managed to pull a box of 10 and ship that to me instead. I have seven left that I have no need for, as I already have one problem-child Avanti. So if anybody wants one, please send me a message and I'll drop one in the mail, gratis. Thanks! Wes

@rufcar - as luck would have it, I ordered one (one, singular) 660-1000 from NAPA, and whoever picked/shipped the part ended up sending me a box of 10. These are all the expected Ranco HTR-100 kits in each bag with the instruction sheet and the rubber seal. Send me a message with your address and I'll drop one in the mail.

I just happen to have a power window relay sitting on my desk while reading this, so hopefully this helps. Your underhood PW circuit will have two components to it - a circuit breaker that's designed to trip over 20A and reset when it cools back down, and a relay that switches power on and off to the power window circuit when the key is on. (Note: I have an early '63, your wiring might have some slight differences.) The Circuit Breaker Like you guessed, the two-wire box under the relay is a circuit breaker. One side connects to the starter solenoid so it has a good, high-amp source of B+, and the other side connects to the PW relay. It should look something like this. The Power Window Relay Every relay is going to have at least four connections - one to supply power and one to ground the relay coil, one that supplies the higher-power source that needs to be switched by the relay, and one that is the output of the relay to the circuit being switched. I've attached pictures of (from what I understand, original) relay here. The four connections are: IGN is the source of key-on power that energizes the relay coil. On my '63 this is connected to the voltage regulator about a foot away and is yellow with a black stripe. It's my understanding that later Avantis changed this so the power window relay is energized when the key is in 'accessory' instead of just 'on', so your '64 may be different Ground is done through the frame of the relay. Being a fiberglass body, there will be a white wire connected to the bracket that mounts the relay, and that white wire is what provides the ground for the relay coil. With both IGN and Ground connected, you can make the relay energize and click - you'll hear the coil sucking the contacts closed inside the relay can B is the high-amp power source that the relay is switching. The other side of the circuit breaker is what supplies power to this terminal. On my car this is black. W is output from the relay to the power window circuit of the car. This is also black on my car. So for any of those replacement relays posted, the three terminals will be IGN, B, and W. The mounting bracket of any of those relays will be the ground for the relay coil. Hopefully the replacement relays come with a diagram showing the pinouts, so you can tell which is the coil positive connection and which two will be the switched terminals. Alternatively, you can find some nice Bosch-style relays that can switch up to 30A and use a standardized pin-out, which has become the de facto standard for automotive relays for the last 40 years. If you do, the wiring for those I've attached also. Best of luck!