Leo B

I bought Nostalgic Motor Cars new New Aftermarket high performance electronic distributor, 45,000 volt canister coil and a set of Silicone high performance spark plug wires. I bypassed the front resistance of the old coil (like written in new distributor document). Everything works fine, but yesterday I drove without the metal shield and tried the coil by hand. It was so hot you couldn't hold your hand in it. Is the coil supposed to be this hot? Should i worry? https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p253/Studebaker_Avanti_1963-64_and_all_Studebaker_V-8_1951-1964_Distributor%2C_Coil%2C_Plug_Wires..html#/

Luckily, my pump had another mistake when the fuel pumps top breather hole was drilled bigger and forgot to leave it open. Now I saw how it came out of the hole. If it had been closed as it should be in the R2 version, that oil would have gone along the connecting pipes to the supercharger and through connection to the carburetor. It would be surprising when there is oil in the carburetor. PS. If somebody R2 owner has oil in carburetor, its clear from where it comes.🤔

Is someboy like to see pictures about the problem and how I solved it. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/rdi288204vqk3na53ck8f/AJxXi7neuRrLrWQog3JydUw?rlkey=2eaafbpxrrd7b3kf4m1kpsyeq&dl=0

Hi Stefan, Here in Finland. Gray and same interior + 4-speed R2 🙂 R2 1963 #R4543. Im ready to help you here in Europe , Finland.

Yes, that was a problem too. When I got the valve in order, running at low revs clearly improved. The cause of the oil leak was entirely in the oil seal of the pump diaphragm, which did not work from the beginning. It released oil onto the diaphragm. The upper part of the fuel pump acted as an "oil pump" spraying the oils out. I just didn't understand how the pump works so I would have realized it right away.

I use Red Line Power Steering Oil. Have used STP Power Steering also. I think all suits which says "Power Steering Oil". The price is not important because my Stude Avanti is not cheap and deserves good oil.😀 Red Oil is compatible with petroleum's and synthetics so you dont need to worry to clean whole power steering. if anyone has other recommendations or I'm wrong, please correct me. Just now Im planning to install filter to inlet.

Hi, Yes. I have contacted Myers. He wrote to me: "I sell them exchange so the old pump doesn't get throwed away and when we can no longer get new ones". He is very polite and helpful 🙂 I will buy new Fuel Pump and learn a lesson.

When I rebuilt the engine three years ago (circa 3000 miles), I thought of renewing the fuel pump at the same time. I bought it from Studebaker International. The previous one looked like wrong part without R2 connection. After installing the engine, I noticed very fast an oil leak at the front of the engine. I thought the seals were leaking and/or there was too much pressure in the crankcase. I couldn't find any problem at all until I noticed that the fuel pump was spewing oil when I manually revved it up. So this was a problem from the beginning. It took a long time to find the fault - very long time. When I opened the pump, it was full of oil and there was a big hole in the pump cover (which should be blocked in R2 this I notieced later). So... the cover hole was not blocked and the diaphragm oil seal was very thin rubber (like thin skin) - didnt work at all.There was also a tear in the diaphragm, but it was not completely broken yet. I reported this to Studebaker International. I received no explanation for the fuel pump # 1557015 I purchased. Nothing feedback about this.(they sell only this version to R2) I purchased a new Rebuilt Kit # 1558925 from SI which I found to be incorrect. (they sell only one rebuilt kit version) SI now announced me that the Fuel Pump I bought is a modified Carter M6270, which the Rebuilt Kit I bought does not fit, and there is no warranty for the pump. So... nowhere was it mentioned which fuel pump version I bought (only one offered) and that the only offered rebuilt kit does not fit it. There is no guarantee even for manufacturing (this is said). My money stayed there. No thoughts to send correct rebuilt kit free even if I pay shipping. I have repaired the pump and the oil seal myself. I need a Rebuilt Kit for the Carter M6270 pump because the diaphragm can tear even more. I haven't found correct one yet. Did I learn something from this? ... maybe. Note. This is true story. You can think for yourself what went wrong.

If you have carpet over the lock youll se the hole on that from inside

Open the trunk lid from the inside shelf. You need a torch, a long handle with a screwdriver head. the lock has a catch that the lock opens by turning

Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure the valve was closed the whole time. If it gets stuck, the tip of the needle is probably stuck. You can test how strong the flow is in the intake manifold/valve by disconnecting the hose. It sucks plenty of air from the crankcase. I guess that many people do not service the valve from time to time and think that the cause of the oil leak is something else. The valve gets blocked because the air it sucks in is oil mist.

The oil leak disappeared completely when I cleaned the valve. It's a shame because now I can't remember which way it was stuck. In any case, it was stuck and didn't rattle at all and created an overpressure in the crankcase.

Problem solved. PCV Valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) was stuck and this created pressure in the crankcase (and oil pan) and thus also to the fuel pump. After cleaning PCV Valve all ok. Workshop Manual use word "Check Valve". Thank you all 😉👍

Thank you John C, I opened the pump and I think the leak is coming from the stem seal, which has a gaping hole for the stem. Need to by new repair kit.