Jim S

Thank-you. Does anyone know what psi I should be seeing to the ram?

OK, I got my hoses routed with maximum ground clearance. So, back to the first problem of no assist. I disconnected the ram from the idler arm and had an assistant turn the steering wheel lock to lock. The ram does not extend or retract until the wheels are turned all the way to the max in either direction. The control valve adjusting nut is set correctly. So do I most likely have a bad control valve or ram? I have a new pump as well.

OK, I got my hoses routed with maximum ground clearance. So, back to the first problem of no assist. I disconnected the ram from the idler arm and had an assistant turn the steering wheel lock to lock. The ram does not extend or retract until the wheels are turned all the way to the max in either direction. The control valve adjusting nut is set correctly. So do I most likely have a bad control valve or ram? I have a new pump as well.

Thank you very much. That is very helpful.

I cannot seem to get my power steering hoses high enough off the ground to prevent them from scraping! The need enough flex to allow the control valve to move end to end, but they still hang dangerously close to the ground. Is the picture or template to show how to properly attach them to the frame?

I'm unsure of the mileage or the length. The car has passed hands a few times.

A friend suggested the torque convertor could be out of balance. But everything is smooth reving the engine up high. Any thoughts on this?

It has been there since I purchased it. Previous owners took the body off the frame to paint and never finished the car after they put the body back on the frame. That's how I got it. A mystery car.

No it was not working since I purchased the car.

That's the only thing left I can think of. There's a shop about 50 miles from my house that can do it. If that doesn't fix it I don't know what will!

I put the control valve seals in the correct way per the shop manual and turned the adjusting nut the proper turns again per the manual. I checked the orientation of the hoses as well. I even installed a new pump and have circulation. Maybe the power cylinder is not working and just passing fluid in and out? I have no leaks as well. (first time for that after owning 4 cars with the Bendix system!)

I still have a bad vibration from about 35mph on up. I can rev the engine in neutral up to 3,000 rpm and it's smooth as silk. But driving in gear the car vibrates. I put it on jacks and removed the rear tires and it still vibrates running in drive, so it's not tire imbalance. I also replaced the ujoints and the motor mounts and rear transmission mount. I'm baffled!

My power steering in my '72 is not working at all. I replaced the pump with a new one, installed the seal kit in the control valve and there are no leaks. I don't know how to tell which is suspect, the cylinder or the control valve.

I did. Still waiting for a reply.

I bought a carpet kit from Newark Carpet for my Avanti. The set fit perfectly. However I have four pieces left that I cannot find where they go. I need to still cover the kick panels and not of the leftover pieces fit there. If someone has used this kit before, I could use some help to find out where they go.

That is correct. Your suggestion makes sense as the starter is pulling the majority of power from the battery during cranking.

I completed that stage. Now the wire from the starter to the distributor that supplies voltage during cranking is now hooked up. I measured that voltage and it is only 9 volts. How can that be? It's the green wire with black stripe. Is it a resistance wire as well?

FINALLY! I got the rear brakes to engage. I replaced the "new" master cylinder I purchased from NAPA with a rebuilt one from Autozone. The NAPA was the issue. Brakes are doing the job. Now onto starting the car. It seems I get no voltage to the HEI distributer during cranking. But as soon as I release the key from crank to run the engine with start. Seems like no voltage in crank but its there in run. Is that a bad ignitions switch? It's a 72 with the GM collum switch. And do I need to replace the pink resister wire with a normal one? A diagram of the 72 starting circuit and switch would help me a lot.

I was told this car didn't orginally have the valve and I was advised to remove it. I installed a residual check valve. Still not getting rear brakes to engage. Also, I could not find proportioning valve tool that fit mine when I did have it installed. So I could not center the thing.

Great minds think alike. I just watched the same video a little while ago! Thank you for your advice. I ordered the tool from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow.

It is a 72. The brand X booster and master cylinder that was in there had a proportioning valve in line. I used the same valve with the OEM booster and master cyl that I put back in. I bled the system first without the valve as I was told the car originally did not use one. Second time around, I put the valve back in and re bled. It made no difference. The front calipers are grabbing, but with the rear wheels off the ground, I put it in gear and applied the brakes. The rear wheels kept moving. Also, I don't know about the centering tool for the valve, so of course I did not do that!

I have completed the Turner Brake upgrade and all new drum brake parts on the rear. Today I got my original booster rebuilt back from Studebaker Itnl and a new master cylinder installed. I bleed the system 3 times. The brakes engage, however only until the pedal is almost at the floor! I checked the measurement of the booster to master push rod and it is correct. Any thoughts welcome.

I found a rebuilt booster from NAPA and the master cylinder that was used by Avanti Motors. I will be installing those two units to bring it back to factory. Hopefully, that will do the trick! Film at eleven.

You nailed it Brad. The light flickers when I shift. I put a temporay circuit break where the fuse goes and it trips with movement of the shifter. That's where it's shorting.