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John C

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Posts posted by John C

  1. Hello Tom and thank you for the update. Could you tell me if Dave Kinney supplied the spinners to Jon Myer that he had marketed or did Myer have another supplier?


  2. Take it to your radiator shop and have them clean it with a little acid and then fill the voids with solder. Then you can file it and sand it smooth. I have done this to steel and brass flanges and never had an issue. I would use solder with at least 60% tin content or 95/5 plumbing solder.

                                                                                                                                                  Best of luck with it, John C.

  3.       I  had the same issue with the switch so I soldered a piece of #14 wire across the bottom of the switch which jumpers the switch. After that I mounted a new switch at the brake pedal then disconnected the stop light wire at the fuse block, connected it to the new switch and then connected the other side of the switch to the fuse block terminal. It all works well and has a stock appearance.

  4. Hello All,

         Does anyone know of a source for the two head bolts that facilitate mounting the supercharger bracket on the R2 engines. I'm in need of four and don't know if anyone has reproduced them, any NOS around, or if I will have to have them machined. Any sources or help would be appreciated.

                                                                                                                                                                                            Thanks, John C.

  5. The fun begins after the seat is removed. If memory serves me well there are 28 screws to remove the fiberglass panel behind the seat. Normally some of the Rivnuts have pulled out of the fiberglass and will need repair.

                                                                                         John C.

  6. Hi Andrew, Take a look on ebay and 3721 AFB carbs from 62 thru 65 Corvettes. You can use the choke housing from one of these. You will have to fill about a 3/32 hole on the rear with epoxy and the brass tubes over the choke are slightly longer. You can shorten the tubes with a Dremel tool if you like but I think it will work fine as is. Other than that they look and function the same.

                                                  Good luck with it,

                                                                         John C.

  7. As an added note vacuum gauges were factory installed in many cars and boats to help show peak fuel economy. Not just blown cars.

                                                                                                                                                                         John C.

  8. The first thing to do is disconnect your dash gauge at the engine connect a known good vacuum gauge. See if they behave the same. Then take a look at an old 1935 to 1965 Chiltons manual, look under engine diagnosis.You will find a good diagnosis chart. Vacuum gauges when you know how to use them are very accurate and useful. They can be used to set ignition timing when balancer marks are innaccurate. They can also help diagnose a multitude of engine problems.  Google "engine vacuum diagnosis chart" and you will see what I mean. Look at the chart pay close attention to a good gauge and you will be surprised what you find out.

                                                                                                                                                                        Best of luck, John C.

  9. Hello Leo,  I am running Dayco belts on  my R2. The SC belts are #15545 they fit but they are very tight you may have to roll them on. The alternator is #15435 and it puts you at the mid point of adjustment, it works very well. The PS pump is #15375 this also puts you at the mid point of adjustment. these are .44 inches in width and the last 3 digits are the length in inches, ie: 375 is 37.5 inches. Good luck with your project,  John C.

  10. I don't know where you are located but you could give St. Louis Spring Co. a call. They can rebuild old springs or manufacture new ones. They have the factory specifications for most springs and have done it for over a hundred years. They are also much more reasonable than Eaton. Jim Christian is the plant manager and he has done some C1 Corvette springs for me which I am quite happy with.      www.stlouisspring.com    or    314-533-2132    Good luck with your project!   John C.

  11. Hello Leo,   Search for Strange engineering gear ratio calculator, they have a calculator to do this. Plug in your tire diameter, RPM, and speed with a final drive of 1:1 (no overdrive) and it will calculate it. It's very accurate.       Good luck with it!   John C.

  12. Hi there Javier B,   I don't think you will find anything specific to the Avantis regarding 134a conversion but if it were mine this is what I would do. I would keep the existing condensor if it has a drier change it if you can find one that readily fits if not leave it. Change the TXV at the evaporator it should have some numbers you can cross reference. If there is a filter screen in the liquid line entering the firewall remove it, clean it, reinstall it. Some systems had it some not, i don't know about the 81 Avantis. Flush the system as you get sections opened up and tape the line ends to keep everything clean. Button the system up, put the proper amount of PAG oil in the compressor, do a pressure test with a little 134a, 40-50 psi will work. If you don't feel you have any leaks dump the 134a and pull the deepest vacuum you can (use a good pump). Then charge the system with 134a. I think you will be satisfied with the results. Access to the evaporator is always a challenge!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Best of luck with it,   John C.                                                                     

  13.           I ordered a set of the Halibrand reproduction wheels from Pat at Real Rodders on 5/1/20 and called him on 12/7/20 since then crickets! I don't know if they will ever be produced. More than a little disappointing.

                                                                       John C.

  14.           Hello Ed,   I just tried this fix because my flywheel has a well worn spot. On step #7 I left the washer in. I measured the travel on the bendix before and after and I gained a full 3/16 of an inch of travel. I think if you leave the washer out you may gain a little more. It seems to work very well and it will serve me well until I pull the tranny (automatic) to reseal it and replace the ring of teeth. Thanks for posting the service bulletin it was a big help.

                                                                                                                                     Thanks again,  John C.

  15. Hello, I know this post is a little old but if you still have the bumpers would you mind sending me some photos and let me know what you would like for them. You can email me at jechristeson@yahoo.com. I'm in Indiana but I could have them picked up.

                                                                              Thanks,John C.

  16. Hello Leo,

            I purchased an SN60 from Nimesh Solanki (he goes by Mike). It was totally rebuilt looks new and runs great. Mike is located in Georgia and he sells some Stude blower parts on Ebay under "nimesh". He is good to deal with and does a quality rebuild. He may be able to help you. You can contact him through Ebay or you can PM me on the forum or call me @ 812-229-5915 and I can give you his phone number. Good Luck with the car.     John C.

  17. Thanks Kodjo for the cleaning information I can see it makes a big difference. I plan on taking the gauges apart so this will help. I have already drilled two holes (gauge diameter) in apiece of 3/4inch oak to set on my bench and help hold the gauges while you work the rings off. I'll give your method a try and see what the result is. Wish me luck.                                                                                           

                                                                                                                                                  Thanks, John C.

  18. Hello everyone,

              The instrument lighting on my 63 has always left a lot to be desired. At night I can barely read any gauges with the stock bulbs. I have experimented with red and white LED bulbs and don't feel they made a marked improvement. I wondered if anyone had tried repainting the reflective coating on the inside of the gauges,what the result was, and where I could find a supplier for that type of paint?

              My next question concerns the front and rear crankshaft seals. What is the best type to use and where are they available?

              I'm sure some of you have dealt with these items before and just what you had good luck with.

                                                                                                                             Thanks for the input,   John C.

  19. Hello Norm, A fiend of mine used to repair C1 Corvette steering wheels and they looked new when done. They would commonly break where the spoke met the rim. He would cut the plastic away from the rim with a hacksaw then clean the broken area, and TIG weld it back together. He then used PC7 Epoxy to fill and reshape the area, file and sand it to its original contour. Then it was painted to the desired color. He did dozens of them and never had any issues. Many of them went on award winning cars. It will take some work but it is very doable.           Good luck and I hope this helps,    John C.

  20. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts on the subject. Perhaps I should have added a little more information in the beginning. The car Is a 63 and it has a 7/8 inch sway bar on the front and a stock 5/8 inch bar on the rear.

    From the input I have seen I think I will install a heavier rear bar and possibly some performance shocks before I go to the quick steer arms. Does anyone know who can supply the heavier rear sway bars?   Thanks John C.



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