John C
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Posts posted by John C
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63R1388,
Please check your private messages.
John C.
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Hi Daryl,
I'm doing my transmission now. Bob Ziff @ AvantiParts.biz 215-420-2300 has some of these parts as does Studebaker International 317-462-3124. If you get the front and rear seals from SI have them check the rear seal number. The one I received is 1/8 inch larger diameter than the tailhousing. O'Reillys had the correct one on the shelf it is a National #7692s. The front seal is a National #6988h. I'm sure between these two you can find a new pan gasket, filter and any of other gaskets that you need.
Best of luck, John C.
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Thanks for the recommended supplier and ring set up. I broke three piston skirts last time out and don't want to do it again.
John C.
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Hello everyone,
I'm rebuilding my R2 and am looking for a source for forged pistons. I need flat tops +0.030. Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks, John C.
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I had sent you a message expressing interest in the steering wheel and dash. But I really don't want to arm wrestle for it so I will move on.
Thanks, John C.
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Terre Haute,IN. Where are you? Check your messages for contact information.
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Hello Jerry, Just sent you a PM.
Thanks John C.
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Hello Tom, The wheels really look nice! I think the non coated wheels do have a sharper appearance but I think they would require more maintenance than a coated wheel. With no coating on the aluminum they would tend to oxidize and require frequent polishing. My preference would be a coated wheel because I don't like to polish wheels that well. I would rather just clean them. Let me know when we can order some. I think they will look great!
John C.
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Volute
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I believe it was a2005 thru 2012 Ford Escape spare. The bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5 inches as is the Avanti. I don't recall the OD of the tire but it was very close to a stock Avanti tire if memory serves me well.
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Hello Tom and thank you for the update. Could you tell me if Dave Kinney supplied the spinners to Jon Myer that he had marketed or did Myer have another supplier?
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Take it to your radiator shop and have them clean it with a little acid and then fill the voids with solder. Then you can file it and sand it smooth. I have done this to steel and brass flanges and never had an issue. I would use solder with at least 60% tin content or 95/5 plumbing solder.
Best of luck with it, John C.
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Thank you Brad I'll do a little more searching.
John C.
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I had the same issue with the switch so I soldered a piece of #14 wire across the bottom of the switch which jumpers the switch. After that I mounted a new switch at the brake pedal then disconnected the stop light wire at the fuse block, connected it to the new switch and then connected the other side of the switch to the fuse block terminal. It all works well and has a stock appearance.
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Hello All,
Does anyone know of a source for the two head bolts that facilitate mounting the supercharger bracket on the R2 engines. I'm in need of four and don't know if anyone has reproduced them, any NOS around, or if I will have to have them machined. Any sources or help would be appreciated.
Thanks, John C.
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Hi Tom, I'll take a set.
John C.
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The fun begins after the seat is removed. If memory serves me well there are 28 screws to remove the fiberglass panel behind the seat. Normally some of the Rivnuts have pulled out of the fiberglass and will need repair.
John C.
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Hi Andrew, Take a look on ebay and 3721 AFB carbs from 62 thru 65 Corvettes. You can use the choke housing from one of these. You will have to fill about a 3/32 hole on the rear with epoxy and the brass tubes over the choke are slightly longer. You can shorten the tubes with a Dremel tool if you like but I think it will work fine as is. Other than that they look and function the same.
Good luck with it,
John C.
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As an added note vacuum gauges were factory installed in many cars and boats to help show peak fuel economy. Not just blown cars.
John C.
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The first thing to do is disconnect your dash gauge at the engine connect a known good vacuum gauge. See if they behave the same. Then take a look at an old 1935 to 1965 Chiltons manual, look under engine diagnosis.You will find a good diagnosis chart. Vacuum gauges when you know how to use them are very accurate and useful. They can be used to set ignition timing when balancer marks are innaccurate. They can also help diagnose a multitude of engine problems. Google "engine vacuum diagnosis chart" and you will see what I mean. Look at the chart pay close attention to a good gauge and you will be surprised what you find out.
Best of luck, John C.
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Hello Leo, Every mechanical fuel pump I have installed on cars prior to 1975 have always been NTP. It is a taper thread so use a good sealer like Loctite 567 and install it snug and it will be fine. Never use teflon tape on them. Good luck, John C.
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Hello Leo, I am running Dayco belts on my R2. The SC belts are #15545 they fit but they are very tight you may have to roll them on. The alternator is #15435 and it puts you at the mid point of adjustment, it works very well. The PS pump is #15375 this also puts you at the mid point of adjustment. these are .44 inches in width and the last 3 digits are the length in inches, ie: 375 is 37.5 inches. Good luck with your project, John C.
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I don't know where you are located but you could give St. Louis Spring Co. a call. They can rebuild old springs or manufacture new ones. They have the factory specifications for most springs and have done it for over a hundred years. They are also much more reasonable than Eaton. Jim Christian is the plant manager and he has done some C1 Corvette springs for me which I am quite happy with. www.stlouisspring.com or 314-533-2132 Good luck with your project! John C.
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Hello, Google Aardvark Racing www.2002parts.com He has been rebuilding and selling parts for Recaros for years. I've purchased parts from them in the past and been very satisfied. Good luck with it! John C.
R2 Oil from fuelpump to blower and to carb.
in 1963-64 Avanti
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Hello Leo,
I would pull the fuel pump and take it apart. I think you have a bad diaphragm. If it is not that the source of the issue seems to be in the pump from what I can gather so you should find the problem. Best of luck, John C.