Zedman

Makes me think that rather than opening 'em up, it might be prudent to just marinate them in Kerosene for a few hours....

I'll have a stab at it ..... (3) $69224 ?

Hi AG-R3- my apologies for hijacking the thread somewhat, but your post infers that Avanti Motor Corp placed 'Anti Intrusion 'Bars/ Barrier' within the doors of our cars. This is a query I had made a couple of years ago and nobody on this Forum could verify it. So, do our Avanti II doors have Intrusion Bars in 'em... ? As of what year? Can these be seen without removal of the door trims?.. The reason I'm asking this is that here in Australia, I know that when I have my car Inspected prior to roadworthy certification, the presence of Intrusion bars is mandated. I'd assumed I would have to install something there- hopefully I won't after all.

Browsing Youtube today, I found an interesting instructional video on how the Avanti Door lock system works. It is worthy of a look.

SCPO-PD... Your engine mounts will be the same but if they're old replace 'em with the ones pictured below for Corvettes (Avanti factory OEM also). I believe there is also a kit available to control the lockup torque converter from B&M, but your re-builder will probably be able to advise you. Youtube features some how-to's on that subject. Engaging the Lockup is one thing but disengaging it automatically when coming to a stop is another. If you are getting away from the ECU, Carburettor and Distributor, you might like to dice the EGR Valve & solenoids, Smog Pump, Pipe to the Catalytic converter (if it's still there), AIR system Valve and Manifold tubes as well. You can close the holes in the manifolds using lengths of 1/2"-20 UNC screws/plugs. A plate can cover the EGR flange on the Intake Manifold or replace it with an aftermarket one.

Thanks for your input Jim and Wildfelr. Wildfelr's solution is creative and well executed I must say- especially burying front Indicators in those big holes ! Jim, your solution is straightforward and commonsense, but since I'm a stickler for keeping original parts, I'd probably end up Fabbing a new piece. Nobody has any info on what's actually inside of these Buffers?

I'm getting close to reuniting my Avanti II's body with its new Frame, The simplest thing to do with the much maligned buffers is to simply re install 'em and utilise the body-bolt station built into them to shim and secure the front panels. Despite my penchant for originality, I've wondered about eliminating them and fabricate a substitute mounting. Do any members have any thoughts or advice on this matter. On another tack, does anybody have any info on what is actually inside of those Buffers that makes 'em work?

Studebaker International 2024 Catalogue Page 262.... Shaft link Grommet Part No. 1554004 Requires 4 Rubber Bushing (for both standard Front and Rear Swaybars) 529392 Requires 2

Hi Brooks- I took the liberty to look RQB2594 on the Bob Johntsone Avanti Registry site. Has your new purchase been improved upon from the Photos taken way back in 2002?

Excellent solution- well done, MFG. 🫡 I suppose for those without Milling Machines, a series of holes might do, although hardy souls might elongate these with a round file.

Hi Brooks- The Tee is meant to be a fuel tank drain but it gets pretty negative reviews on that subject. I think it is an NPT pipe plug 1/4" ... Common NPT Pipe Plug Sizes: 1/8" NPT: The nominal size is 1/8 inch, but the actual outer diameter of the threads is approximately 0.405 inches. 1/4" NPT: The nominal size is 1/4 inch, with an outer diameter around 0.540 inches.

Geeze I wish I could buy em for barely twelve bucks each - here 'down under' I was pleased to buy a pair for &95 incl post.

Hi Brooks. If you have a Disc Drum system on your Avanti, you probably (read, ought to !) have a proportioning valve on it. I had a Kelsey Hayes valve on the inner Left hand Frame Rail down below the Mastetr Cyl location. I have replaced it with a GM PV2 Combination valve which has the same port configuration of the old KH unit and even bolts up exactly the same. I believe the bottom port of the Master Cyl will be for the Front Disc system. This line will go to the Combination valve as indicated in the screen shot posted- i.e. top, next to Brake sensor, at the end closest to the little rubber plunger cover. A shot of my Master cyl is also shown for your comparison. If you need further clarification please do ask.

I believe you will need to remove the original Rivets. These can be replaced with similar rivets if you trim the length so when assembled , you have only 1 x the diameter protruding. These can be gently mushroomed over with a hammer (buck the head end on a soiid flat steel surface) to secure the cover once again. Tinmen's or pan head rivets ought to do. You might even be able to use suitably sized flat head nails as substitute rivets (done that before). Pop rivets might do but use steel ones not Aluminium otherwise they might loosen up in service.