Zedman

Here are some naked Frame photos- these may help... My Chassis was very salt corroded and some fuel lines were virtually rusted through and broke completely during removal. Are yours as bad as mine?

Th Coefficient of thermal expansion for Aluminium/alloys is around 0.0008" per degree Celcius - That's nearly a thou every degree. From that standpoint I'd wonder whether Stress cracking would be a valid problem.

Hi Ted- I'm very interested in doing the same and I will be keen to hear of your results. I believe that most of these carbs come with a selection of jets and Metering Rods. There is an excellent article by a well respected Rochester rebuilder by name of Lars Grimsrud here.... https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Qjet/tuneaQjet.pdf . This is a must read IMHO- it is not just a matter of rejetting, but of the CFM range of the carb as well. As I have a 305 engine, I only need a 600CFM range. Many of the carbs offered are 750's for much larger engines. Many years ago he took on a Chicom Quadrajet copy for a customer and went through it in great detail to get it running right. Metering Rod and Jet sizes were covered. The whole topic was covered on line with heaps of photos. This is here.... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4523417-new-chinese-q-jet-inspected-evaluated-and-tested-the-complete-results.html I'm pretty sure Alcohol blended fuels will more than likely require slightly larger jetting. Good luck-

Hi All- I've followed this thread with a good deal of interest because I will be putting RQB3269 back on a new Frame soon. The matter of shimming has been an interest to me. This thread prompted me to look at my reference photos and the 1 1/2" x 2" x 1/8" steel Shims at the rear of the Hogtroughs were stacked 5/8" and at the Firewall they are a stack of six BIG 1/4"plates giving 1 1/4" lift above the horseshoe shaped Stand. this means there was a 'rotation' upward at the front end. Interestingly these all fall within Group 2103-116 but exist as three different part numbers... 287685, ('oldie'- listed in 1959 parts book as an engine mount 1/4" spacer in group 0101-40), 284488 (I'll assume these are 1/8") and an additional different one at the top of the stack of longer length to provide better bearing on the Fibreglass floor which I will only assume might be 1336199. So all up, I don't see a 2" lift even at the front end. 🙃 Dont'cha just love this forensic stuff !

I believe these are the Chicom copies that receive various comments online. The good thing about them appears to be the bellcrank arrangement for the throttle- it appears to be the same as the originals and a drop-on-fit, plus the correct orientation of the fuel inlet (skewed to one side). These can be had much cheaper if you buy them online on Temu and Amazon- 'Bricks and Mortar' stores need to put their profit margin on top. Beware there are two CFM models... the ones for large capacity engines (750 CFM) are actually way cheaper than the ones for pedestrian 350's and 305's (650 CFM) but on the whole pretty inexpensive all around. Most of 'em even come with a kit of various jet sizes. I'm just about done trying to find a Quaddie with electric choke and the correct Bellcrank here in Oz, and despite my reservations, will probably end up with a Chicom. https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.html?subj=goods-un&_bg_fs=1&_p_jump_id=894&_x_vst_scene=adg&goods_id=601100904891709&sku_id=17597587194867&adg_ctx=a-3935607e~c-5992c87d~f-d01a0905&_x_ads_sub_channel=shopping&_p_rfs=1&_x_ns_prz_type=-1&_x_ns_sku_id=17597587194867&_x_ns_gid=601100904891709&mrk_rec=1&_x_ads_channel=google&_x_gmc_account=5403696277&_x_login_type=Google&_x_ns_gg_lnk_type=adr&_x_ads_account=4525514603&_x_ads_set=22941029271&_x_ads_id=184778158539&_x_ads_creative_id=771606302339&_x_ns_source=g&_x_ns_gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB&_x_ns_placement=&_x_ns_match_type=&_x_ns_ad_position=&_x_ns_product_id=5403696277-17597587194867&_x_ns_target=&_x_ns_devicemodel=&_x_ns_wbraid=Cj8KCQiAx8PKBhC9ARIuAFZ07iBPfOFdM3dr7Lir434E1f-8SuBb1PFTHqH5JXFnMms_bG11Ztf1Uo4kohoChz8&_x_ns_gbraid=0AAAAAo4mICEP_ciMPSaknqRKALVeqFnjt&_x_ns_targetid=pla-2437418753229&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22941029271&gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB

Ahhh- so that's the masonite peice... I have counted about 8off 1/8" shims at the outrigger mounts under the hogtroughs of my '18 Avanti II so I figured 2" is too much and would say False to the original question.

I reckon the Fan Shroud might well have needed tweaking so Ill say yes to that, but two inches of shim..... I'll say no to that.

My compliments SCPO-PD, you are doing a great job ! Great photos . On my own Avanti II, found the little bellows/seal where the brake pedal plunger goes through the Firewall to be hard and decided t replace it, seeing I'm eventually painting the firewall. You're lucky... I can't get the windscreen washer bottle off the top of the firewall.

Hi AG-R3. Thanks most kindly for your assistance- this is exactly the information I'm requiring. Regards.... 🙃

I have an '81 Avanti II with the dreaded Computer Controlled Carb/ignition/TC lockup controls. I expect the Oxygen sensor is probably stonkered given its age and thought I'd better research a replacement. This is proving more daunting than I thought. To cut to the chase... Does anybody have any knowledge of a direct replacement for the two-wire O2 Sensor on these cars?

Hi Ronmanfredi- Do you have any advice on how to remove the headlining/upholstery et-al ?.... photos , anything ? I need to do this job too and any prior knowledge would be really helpful. 😕 To be honest I have considerable rust damaged parts up there and I might end up with a removal instead of a restoration.

Not really a trick- hard work actually, but it works...... A half of a 24TPI High Speed Steel hacksaw blade with a bit of rag taped up for a comfortable handle. Remove the centre bushing and rubber. I use a little propane torch to heat the tube and burn the rubber enough so you can rip the tube out with vicegrip pliers. Once that's out, get really comfortable and use the hacksaw blade to make a slit inside the tubing bore along its entire length. It's not easy put patience will reward you. Eventually the tube can be made to collapse slightly and it can be driven out with a drift. It really helps if you can access a lathe and make up a drift to suit with a piloted end that will fit loosely into the Bush bore and a nice square shoulder to push with. Before pushing new Bushes through DO give the Frame Bore a little cleanup with abrasive cloth or you will likely have the new bush fight you.

Here are a couple of photos of my '81's Rear Springs as removed. The general condition of the Rubber pads and Aluminium Wedges is clearly very poor due to age and Corrosion from salty roads. One wedge was nothing but crumbly muck. I'd imagine your vibration could be attributed to something like this. I will be replacing the Wedges with new ones once I have the car assembled again and I can properly measure the Pinion Angle. There was only enough of the 'good' wedge left to measure an approximate 2 degree tangent. The rubber Insulation pads are available from SI- Page 261 of the current catalogue ... Part no 554620. Wedges are not listed, but are available elsewhere on the Web.

Absolutely ! Still a tough job but better done than not. I find I have to split the Tubing longditudinally with a hack saw blade in order to remove it... never had much luck pressing 'em out.

Hi 64studebakerAvanti- Yeh lots of shims but it is an Avanti II with a Chevy engine so I wonder if that's why. About an inch at the Hogtroughs. When I put the body back on I will be looking as to whether I might eliminate a few, perhaps. Your comment about Rubber insulators for the Mufflers - are these rubber Suspension Straps for the restraint of the Exhaust system or something else? I have recently had a full dual Exhaust bent up and fitted to this chassis buildup.