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mtgibby

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Posts posted by mtgibby

  1. (That should read "Thermo-Cleaned")

    I got a great deal from John Lawrence on five steel Avanti wheels and tires.

    Local tire shop popped the tires off for $25 and I took the wheels to the Auto Hobby Shop at Scott Air Force Base to sand blast them.

    The shop manager recommended that I have them Thermo-Cleaned instead, and showed me some before/after pictures. I was sold on the process instantly.

    They placed three wheels in a thermal chamber where they are heated to around 500 degrees. All the paint and grease burn off. Then a crane picks up the load and transfers it to another chamber where they are shot peened.

    It costs $40 per load.

    The results:

    DSC02876_zpshnvvutwt.jpg

    It even exposed the Maker's Mark:

    DSC02877_zpsxpwaf7fl.jpg

    John, your old wheels were made by Kelsey Hayes in February 1963.

    The last two wheels were still in the shot peen (sp?) cabinet, so I will pick those up tomorrow and pay them $80.

    Now I just need a lead on a good St Louis powder coating company!

  2. I re-found the bag that has what may be the original body mounts/pads/shims that were removed when the restoration shop separated the body from the chassis 5 or 6 years ago. (see pic)

    post-12525-0-41426400-1476450394_thumb.jpg

    The technician who bagged the parts did a good job labeling them "D1, P1, D2, P3" etc. Obviously Drivers/Passenger side, probably starting at the front for #1 and working back to #7.

    The four large rubber rectangles are labeled #6, and have either "Middle" or "Center" on them. (Cool fact: You can still see the original 53 year old brown tape they were held down with in the pic) I am certain these were taped down to the cross members, but I don't know where. Any ideas?

    Mounts #5 are weird. There is a thin, square metal plate (about 3"x3") with a donut shaped, soft rubber pad. The pad has been crushed by something that looks tubular. I don't know where they go. Is there something that would match this (tube shaped) on the bottom of the body?

    All of the other mounts/shims (except for "Rear Middle") are steel. Why aren't they rubber? Don't you want a cushion between the chassis and the fiberglass body?

    I bought a ton of new rubber shims, so I don't know whether to use the new rubber shims or the old metal shims, or a combination of both?

    (And then there is #7 with the drivers side having a large round shim w/ a rectangular metal shim, and the passenger side just using the rectangular shim?)

    Sorry to be hogging the board with a ton of questions, but we are really close to dropping the body back on the frame (maybe Saturday), and I don't wanna screw this up!

    Thanks,

    Mike

  3. The paint guy is getting ready to fit the gasket to the trunk lid.

    Any hints on making it go smoothly? Is there a preferred adhesive?

    The split (open) end faces in or out? Any ideas on how to keep the gasket in place on the corners while the adhesive sets? The tape the paint shop uses doesn't seem to be able to hold the gasket down during the dry fit test.

    I don't want to drill any holes for screws!

    Thanks, Mike

    post-12525-0-69062600-1476315809_thumb.jpg

  4. I thought it would be a good idea to put upper A arm rubber bumpers on the front suspension before the body goes back on the car. So I bought a set, and boy are they tall!

    There is no way I can see of putting them on without the weight of the body to compress the front springs. (Even that may not be enough)

    Has anyone ever used spring compressors to take pressure off and allow enough movement to insert the bumpers?

    I don't own a spring compressor, so I would have to rent/borrow one. Just the idea of working around a compressed spring makes me nervous!

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!

    Mike

  5. I opened up the steering box to change out the fluid and change the gasket. Nothing came out because it is packed full of grease!

    The grease looked relatively clean, and everything was very well preserved. I removed the grease and now I am wondering, repack it with new grease or use 80 or 90 weight mineral oil like the book says?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    Mike

  6. Norm, I read your thread on the Studebaker forum and checked the numbers. My SPARES are labeled R-70 and L-71 (2 of those). The ones I put on the car are unlabeled. Probably reproduction units. But they look to be identical in all dimensions. I just wish the threads on the left mount were longer! Once you add the spacer, it only leaves about 1/2 inch of threads exposed, not much once you add a flat, then lock washer, then the nut.

  7. All,

    On another thread, which I apologize for hijacking, Rob mentioned that the automatics had a 3/8 inch spacer under the left rear engine mount for alignment of the drivetrain.

    I'm glad he mentioned that, because I did not put one in on 63-R2302, and the body will be put back on soon!

    So I went rummaging through the boxes of parts that came with my 1:1 Scale Do-It-Yourself Avant Kit, and found this:

    DSC02677_zpsf3sqguyp.jpg

    The part number is not the same as in the book.

    The parts book says it should be 527974 and 3/8 of an inch thick.

    This one is stamped with part number 532427 and is about 1/2 inch thick. That part number (532427) refers back to the 0101 (engine mounting) group.

    So, what do you think? Is 1/2 inch too much? Did the factory pick the spacer size required as they fit the drive train to the frame?

    Or just chuck it and stack some large washers to 3/8 thickness?

    Thanks,

    Mike

  8. All,

    I have been playing with the new stainless steel Silvertone exhaust system I purchased from Don in Canada.

    First of all, it is a very nicely made system. All the pieces were delivered on time and with no dents or dings, and everything appears to fit together very well. (I will post some pictures later)

    Don told me to make some 7/8 inch long cuts on the female ends so the clamps can squeeze and not damage the joints. I made my four cuts at about the 2, 4, 7, and 10 o'clock positions on the pipes. I de-burred them inside afterwards.

    Don suggested using a high quality RTV silicone exhaust sealant at the joints. Others (Non Studebaker car guys) have warned me off the Sealant saying it will make any future adjustments/removals/replacements difficult or impossible.

    They say they use high temp bearing grease at the exhaust joints.

    I know that I will inevitably have to pull a pipe or two as I reassemble the Avanti, so I am leaning towards using the bearing grease.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Mike

  9. The previous owner replaced the rear crossmember before the chassis was restored. There are no holes in the crossmember for the rear exhaust hangers.

    Using the authenticity manual, I see the hangers are bolted onto the front of the tube, near the outboard sides.

    Question: do the bolt holes go all the way through or do I just drill and tap and use a short bolt?

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