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Wow!!!… Really, really nice !!!!!

I installed that same Ford type power steering pump cover on my ‘63.. Very convenient! You’re probably thinking of updating to a dual brake master cylinder?

Looks good!!!

Exactly Correct!!

Hi Paul… someone more knowledgeable may chime in on this, but in my opinion ‘Avanti Black’ was a legitimate option from the ‘get go’…. only to be discontinued, and then brought back as an extra cost option. If you’re asking what was the serial # of the first production Stude Avanti painted black… I haven’t a clue! Paul S, by the way, owns a gorgeous ‘Avanti Black’ ‘63 Avanti R1

Studebaker engineers identified an occasional ‘flat spot’ when throttle pedal was floored on some of the supercharged (only) Avanti engines at engine speeds above …..?…… RPM. 1) 900……2) 1500……3) 2000….or….. 4) 2500

Carburetor choke thermostatic springs & housings are not the same on R1 and the R2 Studebaker Avanti engines…..True?

I would add that the evaluation of this poster’s choke problem, and my thoughts on how to properly correct that problem, are based on the assumption that the carb itself is in good adjustable condition…… If the carb is ‘worn out’ (sixty+ years old!), and the throttle shafts are loose in their bores, etc., it would be better, in my opinion, to ship the carb to a qualified rebuilder… or, go the modern Edelbrock route.

As most of us Stude Avanti (and early Avanti ll) owners already know, many of the Carter AFB carbs on these cars have been ‘tinkered’ with over the years. That fact is why some owners replace these factory carbs with new production Edelbrock versions… and call it good. However, for those of us who prefer to keep the original carb on our Avanti’s, it’s a good idea to obtain a relevant shop manual, and adjust that carb back to spec… Pay careful attention to the side linkage rods, as some folks tend to bend them when attempting to make adjustments, throwing everything off. In colder climates, make sure you have an exhaust heat riser valve in place and working… and that the proper intake manifold gaskets are installed…. Also, internal vacuum passage in these AFB’s must be open for heat to be drawn up into the choke housing.. normally happening rather quickly.

I’m all for mods that truly improve the function and drive ability of our Avantis. However, in this case I hate to see folks misled in thinking that a vacuum choke pull off is a good idea, when what’s actually going on is simply a misadjusted carb, or defective peripheral controls…. I understand these early AFB’s “pretty good”! Your vacuum choke pull off adaption does look well thought out though…. and I complement you on that….Ed

Over the years I’ve worked on ‘a few’ Studebaker Avantis both R1 and R2. Living here in the rather cold northeast, carburetor choke issues (back when cars had carburetors) were quite common… so I do understand what over choking an engine looks, sounds, and smells like! The only time I’ve had choke issues with those early Carter AFB’s (going back to a 1958 Imperial I maintained) was when a component in the system (as I described previously) was misadjusted or not working properly….. Those carburetors were not designed for and DO NOT NEED a vacuum choke pull off. However, the bottom line here is that it’s your car, your carb, and if you’re happy with the modifications you’ve made… that’s all that really counts. Keep swinging!!!…. Ed

Also…. It’s important that the Carter AFB’s internal vacuum passage is clear and pulling warm intake manifold air up the choke tube and into the choke housing… This is critical on AFB’s for the choke valve to open in a timely fashion! If a Carter AFB carburetor, as used on a Studebaker Avanti, is set up properly, ‘band aids’ such as choke pull offs or electric choke conversions are completely unnecessary.

The idle speed ‘kick up’ is a good idea… Studebaker offered a retrofit kit for Avantis with A/C that accomplished the same thing….. However, the GM choke pull off shouldn’t be necessary if an R2 carb is adjusted and working properly, the intake manifold crossover passage is clear, the correct intake manifold gaskets are installed, and the heat riser valve is in place and working properly.

My ‘85 Avanti has an air filter assy similar to what you describe…It has a standard GM dual snorkel filter housing, which has twin flexible hoses attached, that pass through the L&R inner fender skirts down to holes in the lower valance… which have screens at their front keeping “rocks” out!

Your Avanti is AWESOME!!!!