Geoff

Dave, or if anybody knows how to get hold of Dave? I haven't heard an update about what he decided to do with his stock interior? I would be interested in 4170's seats. 4174 would benefit greatly, having an interior which was neglected for a couple decades. I've been on Recaro's Instagram sporadically asking if they'd reproduce their earlier KRX model, please and thank you.

This is an interesting topic and you bring up placement. Related and affirming what you said, in my build I want to [buy/borrow] some Longacre scales, and my battery placement will be the last item I fit. I'll set the scales and sit in the car, having a friend move the battery around until the cross-weight reading is as good as it gets. It might only be 38 pounds. Considering that's a 76 pound swing (38 pounds in spot A vs. 38 pounds not in spot B), that's no sneezing matter. I love cornering forces, the Granatellis were hunting longitudinal grip. Both require mass to be set specifically.

Due Cento [DC] would've eclipsed 200 with its existing setup. DC only needed to make a return when the salt was not wet. As it was, DC was doing a rolling burnout of 190-or-so MPH. I've read in an article the tachometer registered DC was well over 200 MPH (peak speed); she just couldn't maintain traction for the required two-way average.

I'm tearing down my 1985 to start fresh with a blank canvas. The only module I've found is an aluminum box mounted beneath the glove box. The wired connection (and an empty connector) are on the outboard side, facing the door. Attached are a couple of pictures.

Oly-hay it-shay George! I'm not building my '85 to be factory stock but if I was, I would definitely be bugging you for more detailed pictures this next year: "Where does this go?" "How is that oriented?" "Please help! I've disassembled my car and I can't recall how this fits." Yours is a fantastic looking Blake, and I'm liking them more and more in white. My build will pay tribute to the Mid-Ohio car and I dig that car's white over black livery, except I think I'm going to choose white over Old Glory Blue on the exterior and a mix of white and Old Glory Red for the interior.

I could maybe dissuade these fears with an experience I had driving 1025. I remember it vividly. I was living in the SF east bay area. It was 12/12/95 and that was a particularly bad El Niño year. I was a junior in high school and 1025 was my daily …… when it wasn't down for repairs that is [engine fan embedded in the radiator, 4 of 5 lugs sheered off RF, a clogged fuel filter, and more I know I'm forgetting] That day started bad, a storm cell came in the night before and by 0700 high winds had blown some tree branches into power lines, and area creeks and rivers were rising. They weren't overflowing yet, that started happening around lunchtime and only got worse as the day progressed. I got to school for a 0740 start and immediately heard the principal with a megaphone saying, "The quad is flooded. We don't have power. School is closed. Go home!" My drive home at 0745 was during torrential rain and sustained high winds. Cars were leaving beautifully long rooster tails on the freeway and I was behind them for a handful of miles with no ill effects. I suppose it's true to say, I was behind several different cars, all the way home and didn't have an issue at any point in time. Not that rainy day, nor any other rainy day. Hydrolock was never a reason I couldn't drive ten-twenty-five. The boxed opening for the air filters is tilted down, I'd say 30° to 40° up from straight down. If I was to theoretically drive so close to a trailer, the kind with a whole row of tires across the rear, that the Avanti's radiator inlet was all but making contact with the rear of said trailer, and if we were driving in fairly deep water, I could hypothesize spray from those tires would bathe the air filters with water. Along a related tangent however, how much water is needed to hydrolock a 289/299/304 Studebaker V8? Was I WOT when the trailer's splash came up? Was the throttle closed? Paper Frams (that's what 1025 had) getting wet is one piece of the equation. From the filter box water would go through ducting, into and out of a Paxton supercharger, through hard piping and into the R3 pressure box where the Carter is up next. Has the splash quantity streamlined out, so as to be a thinner stream over a longer period of time? I don't see it remaining concentrated like a floating puddle after passing through the Paxton.

True. My "AV" nomenclature would more relate to car companies' internal designations [BMW: E30, E36, E46, E90. GM: A-body, F-body, Y-body. Mustang: fox body, SN-95. Audi: B4, B5, et al.] that level of breakdown. A 1995 BMW M3 is an E36 BMW M division tuned, 3 series. However, that's all at a level of breakdown not everyone has to delve into, or know. I just use the AV# coding personally. Again, it's at a level of breakdown not everyone has to delve into, whether it catches into the vernacular or not. I find it cool the 2002 Avanti door tags even have a mention of Studebaker at all.

Could it have possibly been in the space between inner and outer fender? Ed you're correct, 1025's air filter housing was in front of the radiator, below the bumper's height.

A2 is $595/hr. and they have a 2 hour minimum. I'd pay for my time and would gladly pay the second hour if it meant finding Cd for other cars we all enjoy. It was an article in Car Life magazine where the author guesstimated Avanti was "in the high point threes." It would be pretty cool to actually gather some data points.

I have a classing system I've placed a little bit of time thinking about: Studebaker Avanti for model year '63 & '64 Avanti II (or AV2) for Newman & Altman AV3 for Blake AV4 for Kelly & Cafaro AVX for all which the AVX was the prototype / proof of concept The Kelly & Cafaro years could break into more divisions: AV4.1 early coupes & convertibles | AV4.2 LSC | AV4.3 sedans | AV4.4 post-sedan coupes & convertibles I suppose that means AVX could split AVX.1 for Firebird and AVX.2 for Mustang

Stacey, I really like your convertible. It's a sharp looking car! I can also mentally picture it with a custom removable hard top affixed. That might be my Miata driving days coming out to say hello! An LS-swap sounds incredible and the LS/Vortec family of engines are so common they may be had for reasonable prices. However, I completely understand the argument for gen. I and gen. II engines. If you have access to cubic dollars, World Products made an early block (Motown LS) which accepts LS cylinder heads. It also requires an LS cam because LS heads changed the valve ordering; no more 3,5 and 4,6 hot spots. I know my uncle complains about the fuel capacity in the convertible Avantis, saying (tongue in cheek) he can drive it across town before having to fill up again. When I hear that statement an engine with cylinder deactivation could be a good candidate but there is added complexity associated. There is also switching to an engine of fewer cylinders, or engines from other makes, both of which open Pandora's box, all of which come with other chassis/wiring modifications. I think if I had your car and was in your situation, I would remove the stock 305 and replace it with either 1980s L98 or 1990s LT1/LT4. You're in Arizona where driving enjoyment may happen year-round. A simple replacement keeps the down time minimal and the drive time maximal.

I'm surprised at that 13-16 figure and it begs the question, couldn't a manual transmission equipped R1 Avanti fare better? I have an example to share. Three Avantis left the SF Bay Area headed to Seattle for the 1992 regional meet. I was supposed to go also, though with split parents my mother vetoed the trip for 14-year old moi. The three cars were a family friend's R2 4-speed, 1025 (R3 auto), and an R2 auto. My uncle Doug thought for awhile before 1025's poor fuel economy was due to Ron being heavy footed. The truth came out during that journey though. I heard all three would fill up, then only 1025. Repeat as necessary over the 1600 miles there and back. If I'm recalling correctly, 1025 was getting no better than 9 MPG, even at steady highway speeds. Actually, the new owner of 1025 has a fuel records booklet left in the center console. I kept track of gallons in, miles traveled, and cost while it was my daily. I am very tempted to pay for A2 wind tunnel time (once I reach the appropriate phase) and test my build to discover where I should place my desired body tweaks: louvers, vents, inlets, and otherwise. I must pay for a minimum of 2 hours anyway and speculate my findings could be complete in 45 minutes. If other SDC / AOAI members were to meet there, with the remaining time we could finally get Cd numbers for four or five other Studebaker and/or Avanti cars: a '55 Speedster, a Studebaker Avanti, a stock Blake Avanti, and the 1990 sedan.

MFG is still in business, and in fact it was someone at MFG who leaked a sneak peak of the C7 Corvette, pre-release. I read about it on Jalopnik back when it happened, and my brain went. "I KNOW ABOUT MFG! That mutha f^**#n' group!!" My snowed-in winter work has me removing the swinging pieces (doors, hood, trunk) and working on them on some sawhorses in my basement. So I'll be right there in the "How the frig does this go back on, straight?" camp coming next Spring.

I'll select seven psi of boost.

The wheel's hub opening is 2 3/4". I removed the rear wheel and measured the hub to be 2 7/16".

I shall post this placeholder now and get an answer posted in the next day or so. I have a project '85 sitting in tire cradles. Is it the "hub-centric" measurement you're looking for? I'll take a micrometer to mine. Check back this weekend.

The answer which really matters is, "Far too few." I love driving standard, which is a huge reason I'll incorporate one in my build.

Spin Tech also make good mufflers which don't lose performance. They have quite a few options though and the differences vary the volume & tone. If you go that route make sure you select carefully. I had a Spin Tech 3000 series on a Mk1 Rabbit GTI once and enjoyed the heck out of it. I plan on using either the 3000 or 6000 series Spin Tech mufflers on my Avanti when it's up and running. I may also run electronically actuated "dumps" and Silvertone's loud option upstream of the pair of Spin Tech, so I have obnoxious mode. https://spintechmufflers.com/

Interesting! I'm going to guess the factory could have done it for [2] $13,000. If the above figures are 1981 dollars, in 2024 those amounts equate: 1) $31,106 … 2) $44,931 … 3) $58,756 … 4) $76,037 I would think a factory could build a tube frame road race car for $44k today. At least, I would hope so anyway.

Thank you so much Lew!

Yep, 1984 were landscape oriented and adjacent to the bumperettes. 1985 were portrait oriented and hug the license plate. At least that's how I differentiate the Blake twins. My car didn't have any when I bought it, otherwise I would say you could have mine. I'm leaning toward Hella auxiliary lights to fabricate some reverse lights into my bumper. They have several light styles and housings from which to choose. I would bet you could find somebody parting out an Avanti with the reverse lights you need. Or, look for another light to fill your need.

🤣 Is this the first time a trivia question has been answered with a notary? Bob came in with fuggin' proof.

Not too bad overall. "Adapt or die" is a pretty compelling reason for change. Personally speaking, the fender blades are a little too thin (laterally speaking) and the car's fascia is a little too far recessed (too deep set). At the current depth, a "big ol' splitter" needs to fill the gap at bottom front. Actually, just pull the fascia forward a little bit (leave fender protrusions where they are) and still install a splitter, but then this splitter version would be more shallow. Rear 3/4 view looks good. Ship it! 2031 IMSA GT4/GT3/GT2, here we come!

The stock wheel/tire package [205/75-15] on your '84 Avanti stood about 27.11" in diameter. Your current wheel/tire diameter sits at 25.68". 1.4" is a minuscule difference though even half of that would give 0.7" more clearance. 255/50-17 tires would be 27.04", closer to the factory height. I know tires can be an expensive remedy, not every size is available across all types (winter, all-season, high perf. summer, etc), and your current tires may have a lot of life left in them. Maybe look for a bigger set as a coming replacement? Though I have a Blake car, I have not yet gotten to the suspension teardown, was a spacer supposed to be below the coil springs and has been removed? Air shocks like HiJackers from Gabriel could be an option, at least for the rear (but would change your car's rake). My father put some on the rear of 1025 and plumbed the Schrader valve to the license plate frame. If the rear was sagging we'd "pump up the license plate" with more air. My auto shop classmates thought that was a hoot. Air ride or coilovers could be a remedy. Neither are cheap though.

If you really don't care about what you have currently, I suppose there's bleach. But that would then require a very good dousing, scrubbing, and rinsing to remove all of the bleach before undertaking a new dye job. Alternatively, sell what you have to somebody who wants that carpet and put those proceeds toward buying carpet which is already the color you desire.