Geoff

I'll select seven psi of boost.

The wheel's hub opening is 2 3/4". I removed the rear wheel and measured the hub to be 2 7/16".

I shall post this placeholder now and get an answer posted in the next day or so. I have a project '85 sitting in tire cradles. Is it the "hub-centric" measurement you're looking for? I'll take a micrometer to mine. Check back this weekend.

The answer which really matters is, "Far too few." I love driving standard, which is a huge reason I'll incorporate one in my build.

Spin Tech also make good mufflers which don't lose performance. They have quite a few options though and the differences vary the volume & tone. If you go that route make sure you select carefully. I had a Spin Tech 3000 series on a Mk1 Rabbit GTI once and enjoyed the heck out of it. I plan on using either the 3000 or 6000 series Spin Tech mufflers on my Avanti when it's up and running. I may also run electronically actuated "dumps" and Silvertone's loud option upstream of the pair of Spin Tech, so I have obnoxious mode. https://spintechmufflers.com/

Interesting! I'm going to guess the factory could have done it for [2] $13,000. If the above figures are 1981 dollars, in 2024 those amounts equate: 1) $31,106 … 2) $44,931 … 3) $58,756 … 4) $76,037 I would think a factory could build a tube frame road race car for $44k today. At least, I would hope so anyway.

Thank you so much Lew!

Yep, 1984 were landscape oriented and adjacent to the bumperettes. 1985 were portrait oriented and hug the license plate. At least that's how I differentiate the Blake twins. My car didn't have any when I bought it, otherwise I would say you could have mine. I'm leaning toward Hella auxiliary lights to fabricate some reverse lights into my bumper. They have several light styles and housings from which to choose. I would bet you could find somebody parting out an Avanti with the reverse lights you need. Or, look for another light to fill your need.

🤣 Is this the first time a trivia question has been answered with a notary? Bob came in with fuggin' proof.

Not too bad overall. "Adapt or die" is a pretty compelling reason for change. Personally speaking, the fender blades are a little too thin (laterally speaking) and the car's fascia is a little too far recessed (too deep set). At the current depth, a "big ol' splitter" needs to fill the gap at bottom front. Actually, just pull the fascia forward a little bit (leave fender protrusions where they are) and still install a splitter, but then this splitter version would be more shallow. Rear 3/4 view looks good. Ship it! 2031 IMSA GT4/GT3/GT2, here we come!

The stock wheel/tire package [205/75-15] on your '84 Avanti stood about 27.11" in diameter. Your current wheel/tire diameter sits at 25.68". 1.4" is a minuscule difference though even half of that would give 0.7" more clearance. 255/50-17 tires would be 27.04", closer to the factory height. I know tires can be an expensive remedy, not every size is available across all types (winter, all-season, high perf. summer, etc), and your current tires may have a lot of life left in them. Maybe look for a bigger set as a coming replacement? Though I have a Blake car, I have not yet gotten to the suspension teardown, was a spacer supposed to be below the coil springs and has been removed? Air shocks like HiJackers from Gabriel could be an option, at least for the rear (but would change your car's rake). My father put some on the rear of 1025 and plumbed the Schrader valve to the license plate frame. If the rear was sagging we'd "pump up the license plate" with more air. My auto shop classmates thought that was a hoot. Air ride or coilovers could be a remedy. Neither are cheap though.

If you really don't care about what you have currently, I suppose there's bleach. But that would then require a very good dousing, scrubbing, and rinsing to remove all of the bleach before undertaking a new dye job. Alternatively, sell what you have to somebody who wants that carpet and put those proceeds toward buying carpet which is already the color you desire.

I think that's what I'm going to do with my car. Today's cars have fluid reservoirs in all kinds of locations that would otherwise be dead space. My daily's windshield washer reservoir is between inner and outer fenders, in front of the car's RF wheel well. With how torn down I plan on taking 4174, I'll probably locate a new reservoir somewhere akin to that.

I'm tearing apart my car and know how the washer fluid reservoir removes and re-installs, but you're not gonna like what I have to say. You've got to contort yourself up under the back of your dash. At least, that's more or less how mine came out. My car's a basket case and I didn't care about how it removed, just that it removed. My reservoir was brittle and screwed. So I screwed it over s'more and now have a little more fiberglass repair to do. Oh well. I might not even put a washer reservoir there, as that looks like the perfect spot for a Crane Fireball or Holley MSD box to mount. Hopefully anybody doing the correct repair has a car that wasn't left outside for two dozen years, and the studs & nuts just glide off of each other with minimum effort.

What seats do you have? Are they fully manual Recaros?

I'll guess 4) 30 lbs.

You mention that idea and instantly this article came to mind. I read this the day it hit my mailbox. "From each pipe, it's pulled into separate 80mm mass-air-flow sensors and then into a belt-driven Garrett 2.1-liter supercharger. (The supercharger has an electro-hydraulic clutch activated by a console-mounted on/off switch to maximize fuel economy when you're not out to feed on Ferraris.)" - https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/ford-super-stallion/ Of course, I read that then and threw that idea into the back of my mind. A supercharger belt on a clutched pulley would be an interesting feature, a little bit like a bottle of nitrous you don't need to refill. It's an interesting idea for sure and I want to drive my Avanti GT tribute … a LOT. A fuel saving mode would make sense for my long haul drives. I've also had the thought of incorporating a "track key" like some cars have had. A couple keys, one with an economical fuel map and a 4500 RPM rev limit (handy for any valet purposes too) and one that hits with all the available horses through the whole rev range. --------- Edit beneath--------- I had to take an Internet gander at the A/C compressor you mentioned. Best I can find is it's known as [RV-2 or RV2] and "What makes it cool is that the internals resemble a mini-version of a V-twin motor." - www.originalair.com It sounds like you could be spinning your engine north of 6000 RPM, suddenly decide you'd like to engage that pulley, and it'd take the abuse while smiling and winking at you. "She's a brick, da na na, HOUSE! Da na na! She's mighty-mighty …"

Superchargers have come a long way since then. Having said that, I do marvel at the WWII birds that used artificial aspiration to make >1,000 horses at altitude. Thanks to the advances in pressurizing, today's kids build their car with boo-coo horsepower … right before #3 con. rod. requests fresh air and vents the block, and piston #4 exits the building. I have a desire to recreate RS1021 but I'll take a couple finagle factors. When it comes to the question of "To Paxton or not to Paxton" that's a tough one. Vortech / Paxton is a good and viable option today. There is TorqStorm. They designed an impeller to start generating meaningful boost at a lower RPM. There is Rotrex. Those Danes make different sized options, engine size and power goals dependent. There is ProCharger. Oh, yeah. ProCharger makes excellent superchargers. Powerdyne was an option but went under. Used options are available though. And those are just centrifugal companies.

I took some time today for a deeper look into this. I don't see a reason that some blended bumper cars can't have their front bumper tucked. Am I missing anything? I don't have an answer for cars other than the '83 20th anniversary and the ensuing twins [1984-5]. This might work on other blended bumper Avanti years, though I do not know for certain. The two front bumper bars could be chopped x-inches. The backside of the bumper (where my finger is touching) could be cut out. That allows space for the front lower fender. The filler panel could be cut back x-inches. The rear side portion of the bumper (which would be pushed past the well opening) could be cut to match the wheel well profile. & The top front of the bumper, needs to have some material removed, in front of the fender protrusions, so the bumper could be recessed. I'm all for keeping the overall appearance of the car, and I had a thought about the filler panel. A strategic 1/4-20 stud anchored from below would allow an action cam [GoPro, and the like] mount for recording track days or autocross events. Maybe I need to recreate/reshape that filler panel out of a balsa wood & carbon fiber sandwich?

More details of the Saturn piece referenced by Gunslinger are here: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Avcool/airdam.html Installation instructions and part numbers are on that website. The prices won't be the same, that's for sure, and one may find it difficult tracking down said chin spoiler. The 2009 update to the above site says Mr. Morris fabricated his own out of aluminum. That might be the best comparable solution at this time.

I bought a basket case in 2022 and have plans for it which do not include any factory drive-line parts. The odometer shows 85k miles and change. The biggest problem is, well, basket case. It was left outside since circa '98. The sunroof leaked which screwed most of the interior and it was buried to the rocker panels in plant life. I have a replacement frame, nobody would want the old one, trust me. All parts are still on the car but will be coming off as the weather starts to warm. Everything coming off this car should be cleaned and/or rebuilt at the minimum. I don't want the: engine(*) automatic transmission driveshaft radiator (*)The coolant entry on the intake manifold corroded so bad it turned to dust. My best guess is that happened over the decades of sitting. The above list is also not the complete list; more parts will become available as this year progresses. I don't want the engine crossmember in the replacement frame. I also don't want the solid rear axle or the wheels/tires. However, I need those for the time being. As far as prices, I'll just say everything is priced based on condition and it's all in pretty sorry shape. Ex: I should probably pay you to take the intake manifold off my hands but that makes less sense than me taking it to the metal scrapyard. I'm in central Maine. If the part(s) can fit inside my Focus sedan I'd travel within 175 miles as the crow flies to meet. That covers all New Hampshire and Vermont. It is most of Massachusetts, even as far as New Bedford. That distance reaches the northern part of Rhode Island as well as the northeast corner of Connecticut. Also, I'm frequently available if you want to come here and pick up parts.

Okay, open source spitballing session: I was looking intently at my 85's front bumper and started noticing things. The top flat panel behind the bumper, in front of the car's fascia could simply be removed. With that out of the way some other interesting modifications might be able to be made (unless I'm missing something). That bumper could be mounted back some. How much is some? I'm not sure, an inch? Three inches? Some other value? The bumper is attached with two frontal metal brackets (from what I saw). Okay, segment out [insert dimension here] and re-weld the pieces to be shorter which would pull the bumper rearward. Now the car's front fender pontoons become a point of interference. Okay, carefully remove material from the bumper's backside to match the body's profile. The last difficulty I saw in drawing the bumper rearward is the area where it blends with the front edge of each wheel well. The wheel well has a profile and the bumper would require trimming to match that profile, also presuming we need to cut off [insert dimension here] and maybe find a new rear attachment, because I see there is a fastener (bolt or otherwise) fairly close to what would be removed. *Oh yeah, two side metal brackets; I almost hit submit. I didn't see them though I recall those being in place from working on 1025. I presume they are on these cars so those brackets would require alterations. Would that do it? Did I miss another piece? Does the extended front bumper have to remain? I mean, I can pull up behind a WRX STI with the table rear wing, sit on my factory picnic bench bumper and eat lunch there, but other than that … could these Avantis reel in their front bumper? I know people convert to chrome bumpers though maybe there others who like the Euro-esque look of the Blake cars, and just want it mounted closer to flush?