Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Jim78

  1. 11 hours ago, Ed M said:

    Has anyone made a round headlight car out of a square headlight car?  I used to do fiberglass boat work and I don't think it would be too hard.  I have seen a couple of cars with the sunroof covered over.

    Ed M

    If you were to replace the nose panel with a '63, you would probably want to modify the slots for the bumper back-bars.  With the Avanti II body sitting higher on the frame than the '63, the slots are too tall.  If you compare a '64 Avanti and a II side by side, you can see the difference in the slots by looking at the distance between the top of the slot and the headlight bezel.

  2. Many consider the add-on bumper very unattractive.   As a result, many of these bumpers have been removed.  My '78 was originally equipped with one, but it is now gone.  Some choose to leave the frame extensions in place and use them to mount fog/driving lamps.  I removed the extensions, as well, and went to a '63-64 grill.


  3. If you think you need a steering dampener, you have other issues.  The Avanti steering is an antiquated king pin set-up that has an unusual bellcrank design, but it will track well if it is in good condition and is properly adjusted.  You need a shop manual and a knowledgeable mechanic.  If you can share more detailed information about your problem here on the forum, there may be some folks who can get you started in the right direction.  

  4. I also installed a pair of these struts on my '78.  They were generously donated by sweetolbob when he went to a heavier spring .  These do work well with the stock hood weight.  I ran into a bit of a problem with mine.  When the hood was closed, the force of the springs pushing the hood forward was enough to mess up the gaps on the front and back of the hood.  The mounting points for the hinges on the core support were obviously not designed for a horizontal load, and they were actually bending.  The movement was too much to make up in hood-to-hinge adjustment.  So, I made up steel plates to reinforce the mounting points, as shown in the attachment.  These solved that problem. 

    The geometry of the mounting points is a bit tricky.  Finding the mounting points that give the highest lift yet don't bottom the cylinder is the challenge.   If additional pictures would be helpful to you, send me a message with an email address.   Posting pictures on this forum quickly uses up one's allowable space.

    I didn't cut into the hood for a nutplate on the left side.  IIRC, there was a reinforcement in that area that appeared to be a leftover from the days that the prop was on the left side.  I fastened all of the the brackets with (3) 3/16" pop rivets, and that has held up just fine.  I used back-up plates when I riveted the brackets to the fender aprons. 

    All that said, I happened to see a picture of an installation of a gas spring that is much less obtrusive.  If we could determine the owner of that vehicle, he may be able to share his experience with that mounting.




  5. FWIW, on my '78 the horn relay is under the dash,  just to the left of the steering column, not far from the brake light switch. Gold metal cover, 3-wire connector, screwed to the dash support.  One of the mounting screws has a ground wire attached.  No idea if the '84 was still the same. 

    horn relay 1.jpg

  6. I was told that the steering column in my '78 is from American Motors cars ca.1974.   The attached picture is a '74 Javelin.

    IIRC, these steering columns were made by Saginaw, who also supplied GM, so there may be some parts interchange.

    74 Javelin.jpg

  7. It's interesting that the build sheet specified the Studebaker "S" badging on the doors and rear seat.  Did they actually get installed ?  

    I wonder what "special inside locks" would be. 

  8. 16 hours ago, A83 said:

    Thanks for the picture.  I took mine apart but did not see any way to get the chrome base next to the boot off without taking the shift linkage apart.  Is there any easy way?  Plus it looks like the boot  is a dust cover for all of the linkage and transmission underneath.

    I would have thought there would have been a thin piece of rubber like there is for the brake handle. 

    IIRC, the chrome bezel can be easily removed from the top after  unscrewing the ball from the shifter.  The issue with using a seal like the handbrake would be the indicator light socket which also moves with the shifter. 



  9. A complete shield set for a 350 (available from Corvette America) will set you back about $500.  And, there's no guarantee that it will solve the problem.  I would first check to see if there is a static suppression capacitor attached to the + pole of the coil.  It could be missing or bad.  Radio interference can also come from the alternator.  A suppressor there may help. 

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-ignition-capacitor-d204/3964752-P?searchTerm=rfi capacitor

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-alternator-capacitor-sc139/10100275-P?searchTerm=alternator capacitor

    I would also check to see if the spark plug wires are of a radio suppression type.  It is possible that over the years someone changed them to a copper core type for performance reasons.  The spark plugs should also be a resistor type.

    Might there be a local automotive radio installation shop in your area?  If you can find one there, look for a gray haired guy who might know what an AM radio is, and understand your problem.  

    Good luck. 

  10. The shielding from a 63-64 Studebaker engine wouldn't fit up to your Chevrolet engine.  Similar shielding was used on Corvettes, and while it is available, it's quite expensive.  Unless you are particularly attached to the old AM radio,  I think that the best solution would be to upgrade to an AM/FM.  If originality is a concern, there are vendors who can upgrade the internals of your existing radio without changing the outward appearance. 

    Another option to maintain originality in appearance would be to add a modern radio in the glove box. 

  11. I was thinking that it would really be nice if my Avanti radio had Bluetooth capability, like the new vehicles, so I could enjoy my choice of streaming music while I drive.  I was a little surprised to find just how easy and inexpensive the solution was.  I bought a Bluetooth/FM adapter from Amazon for $20.  It is very small, and fits neatly into the cigarette lighter socket on the console.  Pairing it to my phone and to the radio was a simple process that took just a few minutes.  The sound is very good,  This adapter has ports for phone charging and for playing tunes from a thumb drive, too.  It also allows hands-free phone usage, although I'm not planning to use that function.  Amazing how much technology is in that tiny package.  The only issue that I have encountered is that the socket on the Avanti is "hot" even when the car is not running. So, the adapter would need to be unplugged to prevent battery drain if parked for an extended period  (I have a "Green Knob" so I shut off the battery when parking in the garage anyhow).   The icing on the cake was that the adapter included an offer from the seller to send me a $15 gift card if I gave the item a good review on Amazon.  So, Bluetooth in the Avanti for $5 !  


  12. Another thought just came to mind...  A number of years ago, I was having a problem with play in the steering on my '78.  After much searching, I found that the steering box was actually moving on the frame.  IIRC, the steering box that was used in that era was no longer the Studebaker box, but one from a fork lift.  The holes in the box were oversize for the diameter of the bolts that mount it to the frame.  Tightening the bolts cured the problem.  The easy check for this is to have an assistant rock the steering wheel +/-  about 30 degrees while you watch the steering box for any motion. 

    As far as the bellcrank,  while you or your mechanic are under the car, grab the bottom end of the bellcrank where the tie rods are attached.  Try to move it up/down.  Any movement there suggests a possible problem with the center pivot, or the pinch bolt that hold the bellcrank to the shaft.. 

  13. Bear in mind that the control valve, by design, has some play in it.  This is how the shuttle valve controls the fluid flow.  When the engine is not running, this play is very obvious, and many mechanics assume that it is the source of steering "slop".   So, before you get into a lot of work and/or expense, check out the rest of the steering.  I have found that the most common source of sloppy steering is the center bellcrank bearings/bushings , or sometimes a loose pinch bolt, or incorrect end play.  A little wear here translates into noticeable play in the steering. A shop manual is very helpful in troubleshooting the steering. 

    All that said, remember that the steering designs of the '50s (which is what you really have) are not tight like the rack and pinion systems to which we have become accustomed.  At their very best, there will still be some play.

  14. IMHO, the II emblem (cut down from a Lark VIII) was one of the worst ideas for the Avanti.  Remember that the Avanti was being sold as a very expensive, custom built vehicle, yet they used these awful emblems to save a buck.   If they had the decency to produce a "II" that matched the font of the Avanti script it wouldn't have looked so bad.  While I'm on a rant, the ugly "tool box" lock on the gas door was another disaster.  Needless to say, my '78 no longer has either of these items. 

  15. If your auto body repairman is unable to analyse the problem and propose a solution, you need a new auto body repairman.   Odds are that the fiberglass is broken where the steel nut plate is located.  If that's the case, best repair is made with the hood removed.  Be sure that your auto body guy is experienced in fiberglass repairs.


  16. Check the detail of your state antique motor vehicle regulations.  I found that, in the state of VA, two plates are required except  "...antique motor vehicles may display single license plates if the original manufacturer's design of the antique motor vehicles allows for use of only single license plates..."  I carry a copy of this section of the Motor Vehicle Code in the car, along with factory photos showing the front of the Avanti sans plate or mounting bracket.  I also carry the second plate to prove that it is not being used on another vehicle.  Perhaps MD has a similar provision in their code.

    Truth be told, I've never had anyone question the "missing" front plate. 

    If one felt compelled to use a front plate, a very simple bracket can be made to go behind the center rubber insert, to hold the plate just below the bumper. A slightly more complicated design could include a piano hinge in the bracket to allow the plate to swing back under the bumper for display purposes.  For you James Bond fans, the plate could be remotely deployed/retracted via a solenoid or cable mechanism.  😉

  17. It does appear that there is a plate,  with two studs pressed or welded to it, that was epoxied to the floor.  The visible studs and nuts on top would give the appearance that there are two bolts going through the floor.  That's the way my '78 looks from the top.  I'll have to check for any sign of bolt heads the next time that I'm under it, but I suspect that there are none.

  • Create New...