Jim78
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Posts posted by Jim78
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22 hours ago, A83 said:
Thanks very much -is there a way to fix it or do I need a new one?
The starter solenoid on the Chevy engine is not normally serviced separately. It is integral to the starter motor, and the two are usually replaced as a unit. To determine if the issue is with the solenoid, a voltmeter can be used to determine if it is getting voltage when you turn the key to the "start" position. Another check is to touch a 12V jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid to se if the starter operates. But, as your problem is intermittent, this may not necessarily give an accurate result. A shade-tree mechanic approach is to hold the key in the start position (when the starter doesn't operate) and have an assistant tap on the starter with a hammer. If the starter then springs to life, it's time for a new starter.
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Another possibility is that the starter solenoid is sticking. Sticking in the retracted position would account for nothing happening when you turn the key. Then, sticking in the engaged position when the engine starts could account for the noise, as it would be the same effect as holding the key in the start position.
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On my '78, I simply cut the frame extensions just forward of the body support point. Installed a '63-'64 grill. Quick and easy. Looks MUCH better IMHO.
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When I bought my '78, it had only 24K miles and appeared to be very original throughout. The exhaust system was nothing short of terrible with a really ugly Y-pipe, and catalytic converter shoehorned in. What I found most interesting were the stainless steel mufflers which appeared to be hand welded. I can't imagine that there weren't "off the shelf" mufflers that would have worked fine. Were these hand-made mufflers really original to the '78 Avanti? Has anyone else encountered these? I was cleaning out the garage and found that I still had the mufflers. Is there any value to them beyond scrap?
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It should start in both P and N. I have found these switches to be prone to corrosion of the contacts. You can carefully bend the tabs to open the switch, polish the contacts and re-assemble. Proper adjustment can be a little fiddly since the switch adjustment must match the gates on the shifter.
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What is the recommended lubricant for the "forklift" type steering boxes?
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The electric trunk release is listed as a $50 option on the 1978 model.
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My '78, RQB 2758, was factory filled with DOT5 silicone fluid. There is a decal on the top of the brake booster warning to use only DOT5. Yours was probably the same. However, there is no guarantee that someone hasn't changed the system to a different fluid. If you are unsure, the best bet is to take a small amount of fluid from the reservoir ans see if it mixes with a sample of DOT5 and not with DOT3 or $.
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13 hours ago, JimM said:
How many bulbs are in and about the shifter? I know only one that lights the gear selector. Your pix is much brighter than my 1975.
There is a metal shield around the bulb on the shifter that has a small hole in the top to direct the light to the plastic shift indicator. If this shield is not in place, the bulb will light up a much larger area. That would seem to be the case in this photo.
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Try the bulb in one of the taillight sockets. It's possible that the bulb is defective.
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22 hours ago, Ron Dame said:
Bump:
How do I get the panels off of either side of the evaporator?
IIRC, there are screws buried in the carpet. Not easy to find.
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54 minutes ago, Ron Dame said:
And an aluminum A6 is 134A compatible I assume?
Yes. I'm running 134A in my '78.
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As you note, there is no binary pressure switch in the system. I added one in my system when I changed the compressor. The brown wire is direct from the thermostatic switch to the compressor clutch. The power to that switch comes via the black jumper from the fan switch. The yellow is the 12V supply to the fan switch. The black wire goes to the fan. The fan must be on for the clutch to engage. No relays. If the power is intermittent, there is probably an issue with one of the switches, or it's just the thermostat operating. A 12V test light would be an easy way to troubleshoot. Also, make sure that someone hasn't mixed up the wire locations on the switches.
BTW if you ever need to replace your compressor, I highly recommend an aluminum replacement for the A6. Dimensionally identical, bolts right in, more efficient and about 20 lb. lighter!
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10 hours ago, Jred said:
I’m currently replacing all the lights in my dash. I have the tach out getting rebuilt. Anyways I pulled out the fuel and oil gauges as I thought I might try pulling them apart to clean the inside of the lenses. Decided not to after examining them. Went to put the gauges back in and now my fuel gauge doesn’t seem to read anything. Worked fine prior. I had taken some pictures of the wiring prior to pulling things apart but the lighting wasn’t the best so now I want to confirm the wiring. Does anyone know the proper placement of the wires for the back of the fuel gauge? The manual I have is black and white and I have not seen a proper description of wires that match mine.
You may have blown a fuse. Check for 12V with the ignition in the ON position. If your wiring is the same as the Studebaker harness, the gas gauge would have wire 47C (white) to ground, 55A (gray w/black trace) to the fuse, and 6 (red w/black trace) to the sending unit.
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16 hours ago, John D said:
Thanks all, the tank is in ok condition, but there is a small paint blister in the hood where clearance is tight (was there when i bought it). The thermostat is starting to act up a bit so I figured I might as well convert it when I replace that.
When you change over, you will need to add a coolant recovery bottle. These may still be available from Nostalgic, or a generic one will work if you're not concerned about authenticity.
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My records show that I got them from Studebaker International: "upper radiator hoses – SI #1700928, #1700929"
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Yes, that knob is identical to the one on my '78. There is a mate to it that is marked "AIR" that controls the fan speed.
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The metal line often has bends that are too tight to be done properly by a hand bender. Since this is basically a Chevy crate motor, these lines are readily available from many vendors. I have bought a number of engine parts like this from Corvette America.
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There is some information about its history on Bob Johnstone's site.
https://www.studebaker-info.org/avantiRQBx2.html
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17 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Would love yo find a set of decals like that
They aren't decals. They are plastic buttons about 3/32" thick, with an adhesive tape backing. I installed mine with silicone adhesive about 10 years ago, and they've held up really well. I do have a couple of spares, JIC. I recall getting them from Studebaker International at the York Swap meet many years ago. They had both "silver on black" and "black on silver" types. Personally, I prefer these.
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The logo buttons were also available with a silver background, which I prefer on my Magnum 500s. They fit perfectly in the recess of the center cone or spinner.
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I have what appears to be the original jack. But, the handle is missing. Since an Avanti needs to be jacked under the lower control arm or the axle, the screw of the jack is parallel to the car, rather than the typical "modern" jacks which are used at body jack points with the screw perpendicular to the vehicle. The newer jacks and replacement handles are short since the jack is out where it is accessible when in use. These short handles would require literally crawling under the Avanti during the jacking process. The jack that I used with my '63 Avanti was a Sears two-speed scissor that had an extendible handle that was short enough to stow properly, but extended long enough to reach the jack points without getting under the car. Best bet at this point looks to be to get out the torches and some steel rod and fabricate an extendable handle. My jack and spare have never been used in 44 years, but it would be my luck to get a flat now that I know that I don't have a jack handle. 😆
What are the original carburetors and intake manifolds used on RQA 327 300hp engines? Height is an Issue.
in 1965-83 Avanti
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When dealing with any SBC engine, it is very useful to check the number stamped on the right front of the block, just below the head. There are several sites on line that have the info to decode it. For example, my V1001CLM tells me that it was manufactured at the Flint Plant, on October 1, 1977, 350 CID, Automatic transmission, L48, 185 HP, for Corvette/Monte Carlo application.