1963 R1 is rear engine seal rope?

[dixchief]

the motor was built several years ago and never started. I had a friend mechanic do all the right things to fire it up. It started right up, good  oil pressure but leaking BADLY  at the rear seal. should it have been soaked prior to installing? we hope this is it and it soak overnight. will try again tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Any suggestions? Again, is it a rope seal?

TIA

Richard

[mfg]

Sorry to hear that!.....A Studebaker rear seal which is leaking as badly as you describe was probably damaged on the install, or the oil pan gaskets themselves (or the twin cork blocks) were installed improperly.

Studebaker used a two piece neoprene  'lip' rear oil seal.....unfortunately, soaking it probably won't help.

[Gunslinger]

Studebakers left their mark in the world...generally anywhere they parked.

[PackardV8]

Good advice thus far.  Studebaker used a neoprene main seal while many others were still using rope seals.

It is to be hoped your leak is at the oil pan and not the crankshaft.  However, fixing either leak is a miserable proposition.  The pan is easier to remove and clean, but more difficult to reseal than the rear main seal; so if it's the main, you still have to worry about the pan.

The Stude pan seals are miserable bastards.  They're very thick and stiff, thus very difficult to get to fit properly and stay in place while working underneath the engine still in the chassis.  If the engine builder did his work properly, they will be glued to the main caps and block; sometimes one is fortunate enough to have the pan come free with the seals staying place.

The rear main seal is made up of several fiddly little pieces not found on any other design.  Read the Shop Manual carefully.

When putting it  back together, a dab of silicone in the corners is the best advice I can give.

jack vines