stupak Posted September 23, 2012 Report Posted September 23, 2012 The horn in my '63 is very erratic. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. I have pulled the wheel several times and tried/checked everything. What I think is odd, with the wheel in hand and the brass plate tightened to the wheel, there doesn't appear to be any movement pressing the horn bars that would cause the horn to blow. I've checked the workshop manual and there is very little in the form of trouble shooting. I've cleaned the brass plate, both sides. I've cleand the spring loaded wire contact. I've left the brass plate on the wheel slightly loose. NOTHING seems to permanantly correct the problem. Any ideas? Thanks. stupak
Gunslinger Posted September 23, 2012 Report Posted September 23, 2012 It may not be in the steering column...check the horn relay under the hood. There could be a corroded or loose contact or it's going bad. All the years of engine heat and the elements could have taken a toll on it. You can use a test light on it when a second person is pushing the horn bar down...see if the relay is getting current to it and also going out of it. If it's the relay, they're inexpensive...take it to NAPA or other parts house and it can be matched up...a very common part. If power is going into and out of the relay, you may have bad horns or bad connections there as well. If the horns are like the door switches, they're wired to be hot all the time...pushing the horn bar will make ground and complete the circuit...opposite metal cars. I may be wrong on the horn but regardless, check ground connections.
Guest dapy Posted September 23, 2012 Report Posted September 23, 2012 Similar problem with another antique car. Replaced horn button and then found that the horn (only one in this car) was the problem. Took it apart, cleaned in and out and works fine now. Suggest if problem is steering wheel components you might want to set up another honker location.
stupak Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Posted September 24, 2012 Thanks Guys: I replaced the horn relay early on. Checked both horns and they are OK. It's odd but each time I pull the wheel, fiddle around, put it back on, the horn works OK for a bit. Then, no horn. I've thought about putting a 'cheater' button under the dash but for a car of this stature, that just isn't right! Gunslinger: I understand what you say about the horn bar creating a ground and the horn blowing. BUT...what I don't see with the wheel in hand off the car is any movement or grounding of anything when I push either horn bar. There are 3 small screws with springs that hold the brass plate to the wheel. When tightened, there appears to be no grounding of anything that would cause the horn to blow. It's really mind blowing, pardon the pun. stupak
J Boyle Posted September 24, 2012 Report Posted September 24, 2012 Horn issue on my 63. The right horn "button" (yes, I know it's not a button but you know what I mean) only works when you press it from the back towards you, while the left only works when pressed towards the front. Any ideas?
stupak Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Posted September 24, 2012 I think that we should demand that Studebaker issue a recall order so that we can take them into our local dealer for free repair!!!! Seriously, on every other steering wheel horn repair that I have done, I can see and understand what makes contact and grounds causing the horn to blow. The Avanti is a different animal and I fail to comprehend it. stupak
BillyBob Posted June 11, 2014 Report Posted June 11, 2014 OK, I'll reignite the discussion. Last summer, the horns on my '63 blew intermittently. This year, not at all. Lo frequency horn toots when hot-wired; no such good fortune with hi-frequency. Relay engages - buzzing sound - when horn ring is pressed. Suspect low frequency horn is ground issue - if poor ground there, will that affect other (high frequency) horn (maybe high-frequency horn is shot?)? I'll keep chasing -- my question is, "what is replacement/repair for the worn-out pressed-nut that retains the screw that holds the horn bracket?" I can think of several, 1) use longer screw and put a second nut next to fender inner, sandwiching horn bracket, with the original on top, 2) fabricate/modify a pressed-nut/U-nut somehow. Both ideal for a 2-person job -- my arms are kind of short to do either. Bill
BillyBob Posted June 18, 2014 Report Posted June 18, 2014 Well.....I "fabricated" a retainer (wound thin wire around the threads for the bolt on the inside of the fender apron) so I could secure the cleaned ground wire and horn bracket to fender apron; cleaned right-hand horn bracket and ground wire -- reassembled. Relay still clicks when horn ring is pressed; no beeping of horn. No, have not checked wire continuity. Not looking forward to this, tho continuity of ground should be easy to establish. I suspect relay is too weak to pull-in to beep horns. Who knows what modern-day relay is similar to original?
Gunslinger Posted June 18, 2014 Report Posted June 18, 2014 NAPA carries it...actually they carry two. The difference is the mounting between the two. It's either an Echlin HR112 or HR114. Take your present relay in and match it up. Places like Pep Boys, Advance Auto or AutoZone likely have it as well. They should be able to cross it to the NAPA numbers.
BillyBob Posted June 19, 2014 Report Posted June 19, 2014 Horn now works! It was the relay! I found one at Car Quest, p/n 56-2447 (replacement for Echlin HR114). Thanks!
Gunslinger Posted June 19, 2014 Report Posted June 19, 2014 Glad to hear it works ok now. Cars as old as ours are are full of pieces that have not failed...yet. All we can do is take care of them one at a time. At least many parts are commonly found as they were used on many other makes. It's the Avanti specific stuff that can drive you crazy.
BillyBob Posted June 20, 2014 Report Posted June 20, 2014 Thanks and absolutely! Speaking of, ...got a nice driver-quality original equipment (not repop) grille & air cleaner for sale? Missed the air cleaner by a few bucks a few years ago when I took my eye off the ball! Only recently have I decided to install a year-appropriate grille in a car built without one. The original owner fabricated a nice-looking (my opinion) egg-crate grille that nearly fit the opening and was secured by 5 studs, 3 of which sheared due to vibration, etc. Hence, a noisy grille. Who noticed? It fell off over the weekend. Limped home with a shoestring holding up one side. Could make a nice article for Avanti Magazine if I get so motivated. Still trying to upload a photo to appear on forum page -- couldn't do a few years back, still seems cranky. What's up?
grobb284 Posted June 21, 2014 Report Posted June 21, 2014 Bob, any pictures of the egg crate grill on the car? I'm looking for something different, perhaps egg crate or a wire mesh.
BillyBob Posted June 22, 2014 Report Posted June 22, 2014 Hope the files are attached -- if not, please let me know your email address & I will send there. Bill
J Boyle Posted June 25, 2014 Report Posted June 25, 2014 My car has a similar issue. One button has to be pushed towards the front to get it to work. The other button has to be pushed towards the driver to work. Relay? Bad contacts? Bad Karma?
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