75 Avanti, can a 700R4 tranny be removed without engine removal??

[Devildog]

My 75 has a relatively new 700R4 tranny behind a Chevy small block (it was install same time engine was rebuilt). Tranny works good; however, it has a higher stall torque convertor with no lock-up provisions. I want to pull the tranny and change the TQ and add lock-up wiring.

Anyone know if you can slide the 700R4 rearward enough and then drop down. Do not want to pull the engine.

Thanks in advance

Joe

[IndyJimW]

I don't know why not, I removed my 200R4 without problems.

Jim

[ernier]

Yes you can. I've changed converters without pulling the trans out from underneath the car. I used a transmission jack and I think it would be pretty difficult, not impossible, but difficult and maybe dangerous with a regular floor jack.

I'm assuming you're sure it's a non-lock up converter.

Make sure there's an 'O' ring on the end of the transmission input shaft otherwise your converter won't lock-up.

If the converter you buy is painted scrape the paint off the nose that seats inside the crankshaft. B&M lays some thick paint on their converters and they won't easily slip in and consequently "flex" the flexplate when you tighten things up.

Remove the distributor. It makes it easier to get to the top bolts and as the engine drops it won't crush the firewall or bust the distributor body.

If the trans was rebuilt to work with a non locking converter make sure there's nothing that needs to be done internally to use the lock up.

What stall did you install?

Final thought is that if the trans was modified to work well with a non locking converter maybe the $3-400 you're going to spend on a converter might be better spent on a set of steeper rear end gears. Much better perfromance and if your stall is in the 2500 range you won't slip too much at highway speeds if you're cruising close to your stall rpm.

Of course, if it's fuel mileage your after lock-up is the way to go.

ErnieR

Edited May 30, 2012 by ernier

[Devildog]

Yes you can. I've changed converters without pulling the trans out from underneath the car. I used a transmission jack and I think it would be pretty difficult, not impossible, but difficult and maybe dangerous with a regular floor jack.

I'm assuming you're sure it's a non-lock up converter.

Make sure there's an 'O' ring on the end of the transmission input shaft otherwise your converter won't lock-up.

If the converter you buy is painted scrape the paint off the nose that seats inside the crankshaft. B&M lays some thick paint on their converters and they won't easily slip in and consequently "flex" the flexplate when you tighten things up.

Remove the distributor. It makes it easier to get to the top bolts and as the engine drops it won't crush the firewall or bust the distributor body.

If the trans was rebuilt to work with a non locking converter make sure there's nothing that needs to be done internally to use the lock up.

What stall did you install?

Final thought is that if the trans was modified to work well with a non locking converter maybe the $3-400 you're going to spend on a converter might be better spent on a set of steeper rear end gears. Much better perfromance and if your stall is in the 2500 range you won't slip too much at highway speeds if you're cruising close to your stall rpm.

Of course, if it's fuel mileage your after lock-up is the way to go.

ErnieR

Ernie

Thanks for comments. I do not know what the stall is, the prior owner had it installed and he is not sure. When I pull the pan, we will see what lock-up pieces are needed. I can live with stall rpms if it can lock up.

Thanks again

Joe

[Devildog]

Thanks again to all of you, I can see a clear path now. I did crawl under the car and measure, the tranny tail will drop thru the "X" frame

Joe