Power Steering Hoses

[Ray K.]

When I purchased my '82,it came with "quick ratio" steering,which(I believe)requires after-market parts such as the pitman arm. A power steering hose failed a couple weeks ago. I got replacements for both the pressure and return hoses at Myers (they make them up special, because one end is SAE threaded for the Studebaker power valve, and the other end is metric for the GM pump). I have been unable to remove the old hoses. When I attempt to loosen the male flare-nut fittings on the valve, the valve swivels because it is mounted on some kind of ball-in-socket joint to the pitman arm, and the wrench contacts the frame member. Using a pipe wrench to hold the valve body was no help. A crowfoot wrench also hits the frame - there is basically no clearance. I figure I have to pull the pitman arm, but I don't see any possibility of that without pulling out the whole engine.

Any ideas?

RayK

[WayneC]

I haven't done that or looked at that area in years, so this may be a dumb thought, but would turning the steering wheel to full lock on one side or the other move the pitman arm (and other stuff) enough to give you more wrench room? And/or removing the left front wheel to get access from another angle? Another (maybe equally dumb) thought would be to place a second flare wrench on another hose fitting on the valve to counter the force of your wrench as you work on loosening the first fitting.

Edited March 13, 2011 by WayneC

[Sean Mulholland]

I have a 69 and had to change the control valve. In order to remove the pitman arm I disconnected the steering box and pushed it aside in order to get enough clearance to use a pitman arm puller. I hope this is helpful to your situation.

[IndyJimW]

Since you are replacing the hose can you cut the line flush with the nut and use a socket on the nut?

Good luck,

Jim Wood

[Ray K.]

Since you are replacing the hose can you cut the line flush with the nut and use a socket on the nut?

Good luck,

Jim Wood

Thanks for all the input from all of you. I was going to cut the metal line flush with the fitting and use a socket or box-end wrench, but I got to thinking that metal shavings probably would not be good to have in the hydraulic system. Then I came up with a dumb but simple solution. 1. Cut the brass crimp band off the end of the hose with a Dremmel tool; 2. Slide the hose off the inner metal tube; 3. Cut the damaged part of the original hose off; 4. Splice in a section of new hose using a 3/8-inch double barb and 2 hose clamps; 4. Use a hose clamp to reconnect new hose end to the original fitting. Since this is a return hose, there is no pressure, and hose clamps will hold just fine. Luckily the damage was near the end of the hose, and not somewhere up inside the engine bay.

[Ray K.]

Thanks for all the input from all of you. I was going to cut the metal line flush with the fitting and use a socket or box-end wrench, but I got to thinking that metal shavings probably would not be good to have in the hydraulic system. Then I came up with a dumb but simple solution. 1. Cut the brass crimp band off the end of the hose with a Dremmel tool; 2. Slide the hose off the inner metal tube; 3. Cut the damaged part of the original hose off; 4. Splice in a section of new hose using a 3/8-inch double barb and 2 hose clamps; 4. Use a hose clamp to reconnect new hose end to the original fitting. Since this is a return hose, there is no pressure, and hose clamps will hold just fine. Luckily the damage was near the end of the hose, and not somewhere up inside the engine bay.

RayK