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Avanti83

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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. The frame looks like an easy repair but as you have another one and the original will go to good use, good choice. Welcome to the forum and please keep us in the loop as you make progress. Nothing better than seeing and learning from the progress of other members on these vehicles. As you have the body off, it will make the "hog trough" repair straight forward and as easy as replacing them can get. Could you also post a shot or two of the Chevy pickup roadster in the future. I like all kinds of neat vehicles.
  2. If it has the earlier Avanti type radiator then there are plenty of Aluminum ones around that will fit. I used this one on my 83 and a different one on my 74. Both cool well and are less than $200. Speedway motors and Ebay can be good sources for inexpensive USA made ones. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/SOB/sdc46421m.html A word of caution as I was working with another member to put one in his 63 ( same radiator dimensions) and it (the radiator matching the part #) differed slightly in dimensions. So be sure you have the dimensions of the radiator so you can check fit. This is the one in my 74. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/75486-avanti-aluminum-radiator-w-elec-fan-and-shroud So you can see that by knowing the dimensions, even if it isn't one from an earlier Avanti, it's not hard to find one that fits and is reasonably priced and the Chevy style is probably what you need for inlet and outlet location. If the hose fittings are slightly smaller you can either find a smaller hose or use a rubber adapter to reduce the hose size. Gates Rubber Company has a great website that shows it's hoses and dimensions, I use it when I'm looking for a hose to fit my situation.
  3. I found mine on Ebay if you are looking for the temporary spare. Couldn't find one in the local wrecking yard. Be sure the tire is the correct size because different models use different tire sizes.
  4. Great link, thanks. I don't remember it from the magazine but it's bookmarked and I'm going to give it a good read or two. I didn't realize it had been shortened from the above shots but it looks spectacular modified this way.
  5. Hopefully that's your car. I must say that I would not have thought I'd like flared fenders but it looks right on this one. The hood vents fit the theme well and the side vents are a touch of styling genius. You don't happen to have a side view straight on, I love to see the profile with the fenders and bigger wheels.
  6. Thank you, the exhaust dumps in front of the rear axle. I'm going to fab a set of oval Boom Tubes that will exit in front of the rear wheels. The entire wheel and horn button are AMC (as you noted), I bought an entire column cheap at a swap meet to get the wheel, ring and spare parts for my original 74 tilt column. I've seen the designed upper grill and a couple others and they just don't fit my idea of an Avanti look. I don't even like the "vee" trim Loewy put on his personal car.
  7. Here are some thoughts from the SDC site. If you don't find your answer here, try the SDC forum. A few folks there can answer http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/V8EngineID.asp SDC = Studebaker Drivers Club It probably just me, but unless it's an SBC, I like to have a spare setup. I believe the filter location says it's a full flow engine so it's a good replacement for yours. Even a 259 will make enough power to get you down the road and it has spare parts you may be able to use or keep as backup.
  8. Since you asked, here's a couple of videos of my 74 after many years of reconstruction. Of course it started as a $3500 rough model but a ton of body/frame work, a 383 stroker motor, T56 six speed and a redone interior got it to here. Just one thought, please don't even consider an upper grill on it. I started this when I was about 70 and finished it (kinda) at 77, you can do it.
  9. Here's how I worked it out for my 74. You'll just need to allow for the 4.75" X 5 (120.65 mm)bolt pattern.Scroll down a few posts in the example and you'll find the tire size/diameter chart I used. You can then either find a rim narrow enough to fit and add an appropriate tire from the chart or Google the bolt pattern (inches and mm) and find what cars out there have an appropriate spare. Ebay and Google will be your friend here also.
  10. This is by memory but IIRC the chrome strip is held in by clips that slide into the chrome strip and are pushed through and then bent behind the panel to hold it. It's possible they are available but you could also just slide a couple toward the missing end and leave one out near the middle. I think the door panel would need to be at least loosened to get to them.
  11. It's always a good idea to use a Stude/Avanti supplier but if you can't, most any quality auto paint shop can color match and provide spray cans.
  12. Pretty common with most cars that used a layered wood backing. The best solution is to remove the door panels and replace the backing with 1/8" ABS sheet. I bought mine off Ebay. Use the old door panel (card) as a template to fab the ABS and put it on the door for a final fit before you transfer the upholstery. Old vs new cards and upholstery dyed and refurbished
  13. Sorry I missed this earlier. I suspect there is some interest having these as I built my own and they've served me well but a lot of owners can't do that. A couple of thoughts: They work on Studebakers, of course, also. If you want to sell them you could list them on Ebay and also post the link over on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum site which has significantly more members. If you have a set price or just want to give them away I'd post that info here and also on the SDC site. Lastly, if the price is reasonable, I'll take them and offer them on both forums as a loan to anyone that needs them for the price of postage in each direction with a deposit just like the auto stores to be returned when I get them back. Thanks for offering these as I'm sure there are folks that can use them.
  14. Good info, any indication there is an access hole under the latch or through the firewall? That would be a more difficult reach as the access would potentially be under/behind the dash.
  15. Looking straight up behind the passengers front tire on my 83. Yours may look somewhat different as you have a later chassis but there should be an opening there.
  16. I'd suggest that you look for the best 1966-83 Avanti you can find and do the upgrades to the engine, trans etc. If you are dead set on the 63/64 round eyed version your choices become more expensive. A very nice later Avanti should go for under $30K and leave you a ton of room for mechanical upgrades like an LS engine/trans combo. The Dana 44 rear will be plenty strong for this power. Paint, hog troughs, body and frame repair not counting interior will get you close to $25K and will still nickel and dime you from there. It best to start with one that doesn't need all that work unless you can do the work like painting, etc. I've done one Avanti in really poor condition because I do about everything so cost is reasonable but if I paid myself for my labor I wouldn't want to know what I've spent. Starting with a good one and upgrading should get you on the road with a driver you will be proud and happy to drive for approx $50K or less. Now a show car is another story.
  17. I'm a bit confused about the "vague" instructions. The manual says to adjust fore/aft (back to front) and up/down loosen the screws in the door hinges (#1) and move to adjust. For in/out you need to add shims. That's about what any manual would say. Have you tried to adjust them yet. I can personally attest there is a fair amount of adjustment by loosening the screws in the doors.
  18. As Wayne said, front to back is by loosening the bolts inside the doors and in and out are by shimming. Be sure to check the hinge pins for wear and corrosion. I also pull out the striker so I'm not fighting it. When I reinstall doors, I set them in the opening with the hinges in the pockets but no bolts. I then shim them around the opening to create the gap I want and tape long pieces of wood across the door and body to get the correct in/out match. Then add the shims behind the hinges and tighten everything. You may find that you need to reglass or trim sections to get the gaps you want. My 83 had really nice gaps from the factory. The 74 passenger door must have been a late Friday build as it needed a fair bit of body work when I redid the car a few years back. Let me also strongly encourage to get the manuals. It's more than frustrating to put hands on a Avanti without one and worth every cent of the cost.
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