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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. As far as original, I can't help but in my 74 that has serious deviations from stock I used carpet from Menards with a tight pile.
  2. Bill's idea above is an excellent way to remove it by cutting it off near the grill. If you want it totally gone and return the car to the earlier style (no cowcatcher) you will need to remove it by unbolting it from the frame and pulling it out. You would then need to cut off the rear of the cowcatcher and put it back in place as it also serves as the front body support. The body will also need some repair to replace the fiberglass cut out to add the bumper. You could try to cut the end off the support with it mounted but it's tight right there. So you can see Bill's idea is much easier and works well but I wanted mine closer to original You will also need another grill or repair yours with 1/8" stainless rod. Frame end shot
  3. Nope, even though I have a couple on site. The standard modern 15" steel wheel is about 20# so the non-radial wheel on the Avanti had to be less. Happy Easter - back at yah!
  4. I'll pick 16# #2
  5. Yup! Just unscrew it but put a 1/4" pipe plug in it's place as there's still some fuel in the tank and it smells bad and makes a mess.
  6. Searched my archives and found some more shots of the assembly. Here are a couple showing the upper mounting area. Disregard the shiny black bracket as it is mounted in the spot for the four speed linkage to activate the hydraulic linkage to the T56.
  7. You could talk to the usual suspects, Myers and Nostalgic, but I'd also suggest that you ask over on the SDC website as they also fit some later Studebaker's. There's a lot more of them and someone can tell you what years and models and possibly have a set available. You might also go through the Studebaker Vendors list and call a few that look promising. https://www.studebakervendors.com/ As an aside, if you have the original mounting assembly in place the pedals/arms consist of a rod mounted to one of the pedal arms that passes through a sleeve in the mounting bracket and the other pedal mounts on that rod with some fasteners and shims. IIRC. You may only need the petals/arms and any missing hardware. It may be that you only need the brake petal as the clutch petal looks to be correct. Hopefully this will help with you search.
  8. I suspect that it's the same as earlier models due to using the same frame etc. This is an earlier discussion with a picture of my 74 setup if you don't mind a bit of photobucket shading on it. I can probably dig up a few pictures if necessary. I would also suspect they are earlier origin assemblies but I do seem to recall that they have a larger pads than earlier. It might be easier to just match the metal pedal pad mount on the brake with the clutch pad mount. The clutch and brake use the same rubber pad. This should give you an idea of the orientation of the pedals
  9. Well done. You went a long way for lunch.
  10. Bill If all else fails, as you have the spout out you could shorten it and weld a 2" od pipe to it. That would also let you make a straight shot to the tank and use a standard 2" hose. Bob
  11. I used 2" automotive hose that is resistant to modern fuels from the internet. The original has a slight bend and I had to remove the body filler neck to install install the newer type hose. Check your diameter to be sure my CRS hasn't kicked in on the size.
  12. I'm not sure what you are asking but don't all mid-80's and up Corvettes came with a torque tube setup albiet the trans is rear mounted with swing axles.
  13. Mcleod is still in business so I'd just contact them and see what that install needs. Haven't seen a B&B setup since I put an SBC in a 39 Ford 40 years back. Worked very well, though.
  14. Same as the SDC FORUM. Dana now Rostra Let me know if this doesn't work as I might have one if I look hard enough. http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php
  15. T-56 behind a 383 SBC. It just bolted up but as you have an automatic you'll need the Avanti/Lark pedals. For my T56 I used all GM parts including the master/slave setup from a Camaro. Clutch's, flywheels, etc can all be ordered from any supplier and you can set your price for them. The higher the performance the higher the cost. Just use the OEM bell housing but be careful some of the Camaro's tip the trans off center. I have a 5-speed OEM straight up housing bell setting in my polebarn depending on how close you are to Michigan. You might also consider a hydraulic throwout bearing. Here's my first post about the T56 install about the clutch pedal and hydraulics install. You will also need a different rear mount but that's easy and a different drive shaft. There are a couple follow up's to complete the install available. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/69309-t-56-in-a-74-avanti-part-1-clutch-hydraulics MC mount - https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/69863-74-avanti-clutch-master-cylinder-mount-t-56 One last caveat, use the five speed hydraulics, the T56 hooks up differently but the concept should be similiar.
  16. I've done a number of steel bodies but not an Avanti but I think I would use the firewall mounts and the rear as Ed suggested. Hopefully Brad Bez will find this and comment on how he does it. If not, you could try to PM or email him.
  17. Kerosene or other solvent needs to soften or dissolve the undercoating so it will take a fair bit. A total mess in my mind. I've used it to get the last of the undercoating when it's just a film and it kinda OK for that. Try the heat method with a less than sharp scraper and only use as much heat as necessary before you get all jiggy with solvents. Plastic might work but most are made from olefins that soften at fairly low temps.
  18. Agree with Jim again. I used a Flex-a-lite Syclone with a custom shroud but Jim's setup would be much easier to fab and install. I also used a Derale 16749 fan controller and added a manual override switch just-in-case.
  19. If Dan won't send a digital copy, You can have him send it to me, I'll scan it and email or text it to you digitally and then send the copy from Dan to you in the Netherlands. I'll send you my address and email if it's necessary. Bob
  20. Yup! I suspect you have now discovered why a couple of the best tools for old cars is a Volt-Ohm-Meter and a 12 volt probe. Even with a complete wiring diagram (if available) you will still need to generally start at either the fuse box or affected end and start back tracking. Avanti's are well known for corrosion and bad grounds causing issues. I would suspect your manual (if available) should list the fuses that feed certain parts. If not, the 12 v probe will make sure there is power to all the fuses whether on full time, or in run or start mode.
  21. I agree with Jim above. That's why I always bought the factory manuals when I purchased a "New" daily driver. They finally priced me out of the market but the local library usually had up to date Mitchell's Manuals that had what I needed. Pretty hard to get to them now however, and my guess is they will not be digitizing them and will probably, if they have not done it by now, be purging them. That leaves the link that Jim posted.
  22. This should do it. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels
  23. Probably Ford Fairlane rotors and S10 4X4 calipers. Personally, I'd go for newer Ford, Chrysler or aftermarket wheels as the 63/64 were a bit narrow and the newer ones will let you run bigger/better radial tires. I'm using 2000 or so Mustang Bullitt Aluminum wheels on my 74 with the Turner option and would not go back to 60's technology in wheels. You should be able to find new or used steel wheels if you prefer by looking for wheels that have the width and back spacing of the Crager's you are running. I opted for a much larger wheel for the stated reasons. YMMV- Your mileage may vary.
  24. I used Aluminum faced fatmat for sound and heat insulation inside the Avanti, DEI exhaust wrap on the head pipes and aluminum heat shields above the mufflers. You can see the heat shields above the mufflers and they are spaced away from the floor. I also put an aluminum shield under the 6-speed slave cylinder.
  25. I can't answer the question but if they will work, there is an Avanti II being parted out in the for sale section near the bottom if you need parts.
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