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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. If you want a different cover there should be plenty available for a Dana 44 housing from the 4X4 community. Realistically, I'd take some material off the plug base and move on. You could also measure the OD of the base and go to a Big Box store and see if they have a larger one in their inventory. Not all plugs are threaded to the same depth so I'll bet there are ones that will fit better. Your cover could also have the threads opened up by overtightening. Several ways to reduce the problem.
  2. These are out of my 83. If you are interested, I'll look for the grills.
  3. I may have a couple off a 74 or 83 if you are interested. I'll check if you are interested.
  4. Just to be sure we're all on the same page, Dan doesn't recommend a dry installation. As above he recommends 3M bedding compound prior to the installation and the Butyl rubber sealant afterwards.
  5. I have a pair of the standard issue seats from a 74. I suspect you are a long way from Michigan but we can talk if you want.
  6. The workshop manual shows the screw locations that need to be accessed through the holes in the window seal. Take a look at it carefully, the drawing is pretty good. Luckily new window seals are available and there is also a top weatherstrip seal used. The description is quite good if you can locate the screws.
  7. I have no idea about the value but it's currently worth $250 as that's the offer. Bottom line is you can move it on or wait for a better offer which my allow you keep stumbling over it for the next 10 years or more.
  8. Just thinking out loud here, but if you have a stock L48, headers will do little to add to gitty-up as you have already added duals.. Those were 180-190 hp smog engines so a better investment IMO would be a cam and heads upgrade or all the way with new pistons. Also recall the 360 hp Corvette L84 ran 2.5" ram horns quite successfully. If you've all ready done that then good luck with your quest for better headers. Please post when you find them.
  9. The biggest problem with headers or any exhaust manifolds is they need to clear the steering box on the drivers side. I just used the 2 1/2 in "vette Ram Horn manifolds from the early 60's. Speedway sells an aftermarket Ram Horn that should fit and, I believe, another member has used ones from Sanderson. As far as better flow, the SBC Ram Horns were pretty good, even compared to headers, and you'll also want to upgrade your entire system also. Let me suggest the 2 1/4" stainless system from Don Simmons at Silvertone exhaust. The problem with most headers is they need to go up and around to get past the steering box and few do that. Here's my install on my 83 with Don's system. He sized the head pipes to fit my 2 1/2" manifolds. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/43720-avanti-stainless-silvertone-exhaust-installation-length-and-picture-warning I did my own 2 1/2" system on my 74 with a couple of headpipes bent at a local shop.
  10. Try applying brake disc lube behind the pads and any sliding surface before you start throwing parts at it. Just ask at your FLAPS what they recommend. Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
  11. Put a mechanical gauge in the system temporarily to check the true pressure. They're fairly inexpensive from Ace Hardware to Amazon.
  12. If nothing appears, try Ebay
  13. Be careful about loading the rear shock mounts with a lot of weight from load leveling shocks as it not that strong. Let the rear suspension do the work and the shocks control rate. A complete front rebuild kit with refurbished king pins is about $1000 in parts if required. Rear bushing another $100 or so. When I rebuilt the front on my 74 I used Delrin bushing on the A-arms and urethane on the sway bars which also helps firm it up. Gunslinger is right about the handling being a 50's design but if the suspension is in top notch shape they are reasonably capable road cars when on good radials.
  14. If the fuse is bad again, I'd start looking for the cause which in these cars can be proper grounding. IAC, for important lights, I'd install an in-line circuit breaker.
  15. If you have trouble finding seats about any late model mid or full size car seats will fit. That will give you more adjustment and heat if so desired. I used 2007 Pontiac G6 leather seats in my 74 Avanti and 07 Acura seats in my 54 Studebaker. They are both much better seats than the ones in my 1983 Avanti if you don't mind non-stock. Personally in today traffic, I want the high backs well anchored to the frame for support if I get rearended. Someday I'll get the GTP removed by the same upholster that did my dash.
  16. I have KYB's on mine but be sure that the front suspension is in A1 shape. Both of my Avanti needed rebuilding when I bought them so I did it in my polebarn. With good shocks, 17" radial tires and the newer suspension components it rides surprisingly well. I also did the rear bushings at the same time.
  17. Ford 9" is the standard for performance rear ends and the aftermarket ones can be had in about any configuration at reasonable (not cheap) costs. The 63 should have a Dana 44 rear end but it came standard with non-flanged axles and a low spline count. Hard to do maintenance on the brakes and not as strong as later units. The 44's can be upgraded to later technology but for a few dollars more you could get a 9". Both choices should be adequate for your needs. Moving the Avanti brackets to a 9" axle is straight forward. Donut spare from my 74. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/114056-avanti-temporary-spare In the above post you can see the 17X8" Mustang Bullit wheels on it. They size match all around. I have staggered sizes on my 83 Avanti but much prefer the same size on all four from an balanced looks standpoint. My write up and further thoughts on the Mustang wheels. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels
  18. Traditional position for the SBC oil sensor is behind the head on the drivers side that can be accessed from above the engine. Look straight down to see it. There is usually room to get a hand down to pull the wire and use a socket to remove the sender unless it's the large bodied one used on some engines. IAC, it can be removed.
  19. Replied to your other post.
  20. Having done my 74 Avanti from about the shape of your current 63, I can appreciate the amount of work necessary. But I'm currently 78 and won't discourage you in your quest. Mine took about 6 solid years to complete from hog troughs and frame repair to complete body, interior, suspension and engine rebuild. I converted from a 4 speed to 6 speed but with an SBC so no big deal. You'll want to add an avanti/lark clutch setup and let me recommend you switch to a hydraulic setup for the clutch. A go-to for transmission adapters is Fairborn Studebaker in Ohio. http://fairbornstudebaker.com/WP/ They show an adapter from 289 to GM automatics but I know there are a couple 5-speed's wandering around with their kits. Give them a call and discuss your needs from engine to trans conversions and, I'll bet they'll fix you up. Good folks. Also think about converting to flanged axles in the rearend and also upgrading from the OEM to a high spline count. Again, Fairborn can help. I did everything on my 74 from metal work to painting so that adds up in time. Farming out some of the work can shorten the time but add costs and the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Good luck and keep us in the loop. If you have questions about certain modifications, I have a lot of pictures and posts I've done over the years. Also acquaint yourself with Bob Johnstone's website for a ton of valuable information on repairs and modifications. Forum member Brad Bez name - brad - is in the restoration business and a quality reference here for questions. Bob's website - for technical help go to the Tech Page logo on the left side of the page. https://www.studebaker-info.org/
  21. The area above and behind the rear seats are mostly fiberglass with the fuel tank located there and a rear shelf that is plywood. That would make mounting the upper belt mount securely a challenge. You could possibly add a steel mounting point and heavier wood bracing under the rear shelf to provide enough strength for the mount using the rear seat belts from a modern sedan.
  22. Pulling the cam requires removing everything on top and the front of the engine. You probably have room to pull the cam but why not take the engine out, put it on an engine stand, check the bearing etc. and then reseal it with new gaskets at a minimum. Way easier to do out of the car. Also a great opportunity to add a different engine as the 305's are a "bit" anemic. JMO Lastly, pulling the engine out of an Avanti with the body on is not for the weak of heart, I've done a couple, so take advantage of this opportunity.
  23. Looks like a very nice start to a long friendship. Take a HF digital thermometer with you to check temperatures as the gauges may/may not be accurate. Same with oil pressure. Also be sure to check the tires age as radials are known to get sketchy as they get older so you can drive appropriately. The power trains in these cars are still the straight forward technology before computers so it should do well on the ride home. Welcome and congratulations on your car. Avanti!!
  24. Shouldn't the drivers side be the mirror image of the passengers? That should provide an example and part numbers you can track back if all else fails.
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