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tsterkel

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Posts posted by tsterkel

  1. In a recent magazine...(I forget whether it was Avanti or Turning Wheels) one of the technical experts says the correct 63-64 Avanti radio has "Avanti" script on it and another unique feature is the red lighting.

    My car (never been apart to the best of my knowledge) has the red lights, but just "Studebaker" on it.

    Is it correct?

    If you want a "real" Avanti AM/FM radio, send me e-mail. I know of where one is sitting on a bench. (No I do not have it.)

    NO PMs, e-mail only.

    thanks!

  2. First of 3 articles on the Right Oil is scheduled for the Avanti Magazine, November 2007.

    This might seem like a very simplistic question, but what is a good oil to use in the Avanti R1 engines? I know the older engines are constructed differently and running some of the newer oils may not be the best choice. I've seen different suggestions on the net, many of which are rather complex and even involve the use of diesel oils (of which my knowledge is limited). Needless to say, I'm at a bit of a loss on this one. Any suggestions are appreciated. My apologies if this has been asked before. Didn't see it on the forums, but I'm sure it's not the first time it's been addressed. Thanks all.
  3. Interesting note there. There is a perennial push to eliminate the front plate to have someplace to put the Confederate Battle Flag. Of course, the proponents pretend that they are only trying to save state money. (Remembering the only time in 40 years of being afraid on the road, I, to this day, see the battle flag in my rear view. Something about putting that symbol on your vehicle encourages antisocial behavior. Second note, I have never seen the Confederate Flag anywhere outside of books and some museum displays.)

    ITNAVA is a great idea for a plate; even better if OK has front license plates (for those who admire the cars from their rear view mirrors).
  4. I have been and continue to be a member of several non-profits. A common problem is the need vs. cost of getting basic detailed info to the members, especially those who have been members less than 15 - 20 years. I have come up with a way to meet this need, and create a money raising capability for the non-profit.

    Several times over the years I have collected "common knowledge" which was "available", but not convenient to anyone but the couple of individuals who kept files over the years. I created "Reference Sets" of this loose information, created detailed, searchable indexes and packaged as a printable publication. I returned all materials lent to me.

    The publication (electronic, but printable anywhere), is then copyrighted in the name of the non-profit, an ISBN assigned, and sent to the non-profit. In the over 8 times I have done this, most of the time, the printed version was sold at a nominal price as a fund raiser. Twice, it was used as an incentive for (very) early renewals, and/or new members.

    How am I compensated if I sign over copyright and all publication rights? Simple, I have a copy for personal use, and to be honest I really like creating these compendiums.

    What would be a good AVANTI! Reference Set? For starters, all the service/technical bulletins, all the accessory brochures, that type of hard to get stuff (manuals and parts lists are already being published).

    I would like to hear from the club on this, and especially board members who would like another opportunity to service the membership while gaining $$$ for the club.

    thanks!

    e-mail to: Avanti_Reference_Set@sterkel.org

  5. In a recent Avanti/AOAI magazine, I had an article on the "correct" colors for over 40 "paintable" parts. (not including interior and body paints which are well known and documented)

    It has the "correct" paint defined with 2-3 "close" alternatives to "Avanti White" which was only used on the 1963 wheel, and the different "Avanti white" used on 1964 - 19?? wheels. The grill was stainless, maybe with a clear coating.

    (Yes, for the 1963, Ford Wimbledon white is very close. I got a can of the "official" 1963 wheel paint, and could only tell the difference in fluorescent light and strong outdoor light. Saved myself about 80% by going to the local Auto parts store and got the Ford paint in a shaker can (enough for 4 wheels)).

    Thanks for the replies. My recollection is that there was a Ford Wimbledon white that was a good match. In a document by Stanley Gundry, he mentions a Centari #4775 Ford truck white that is a very close match. My frustration is that I have a touch up paint vial with the number 6331 on it and that seems to translate to a 63s91 avanti white color. My problem is that i can't find corresponding specific paint mixture formulas for the 6331/63s91 numbers.

    Any additional help you can provide will be GREATLY appreciated.

    By the way, the car will be listed for sale in the near future (hence my desire to get it back to specs). It (64 R2 square headlights)has been totally redone by Expressly Avanti out of PA) just short of a frame off restoration. Any thoughts on a fair asking price?

    Thanks,

    J.

  6. any professional paint shop can easily look up the orginal paint code and the modern equivalent, and mix it for you in either with or without clear topcoat.

    Howdy!

    I need to paint the grill work on my 1964 Avanti that was painted about 14 years ago. I am having a problem finding a shop that can match the color. It was painted "Avanti white" and I do have a small bottle of touchup paint from then with the number 6331 on it. However, I'm unable to find a cross reference with a paint formula that can be used by my body shop.

    Is there a currently existing color that matches Avanti white?

    Thanks for your help.

    J. :(

  7. Ran my "new" '63 R2 from Seattle to North Texas, 2300+ miles, 3 days, using Chevron Supreme. No additives after the first 800 miles (Techron on the chance that I had issues with deposits).

    Absolutely no problems, except when I had to use other brands. As a side note, after about 800 miles on the Chevron, the engine "loosened up" and ran smoother, and accelerated better.

    There seems to be a lot of controversy with an answer to your question and everyone seems to have a different opinion with just as many conflicting bits of evidence.

    Octane ratings are figured differently now than when Stude originally built your car. If you have an R1 with it's rated 10.25-1 compression ratio you still need premium grade gasoline. R2's have a lower compression ration but with the supercharger they still need the high octane stuff to combat detonation...so, unless you've significantly lowered your compression ratio from stock, an Avanti still needs the high octane...leaded or unleaded. These cars aren't like modern cars with computerized ignitions that can automatically adjust timing when it detects engine knock due to use of lower than specified octane fuel.

    About all you can find now, outside of racing fuels or aviation fuel, is 92 or 93 octane unleaded. The lead originally used in gasoline was a cheap valve lubricant, that's why it was used. Allegedly the use of unleaded gas in older engines...built prior to about '71 or '72, can cause damage to valve seats. Since that time manufacturers have installed or built in hardened valve seats into cylinder heads to keep that from happening. If your cylinder heads have been rebuilt since that time period, they may well have hardened valve seats installled...it's pretty much done automatically.

    Even if your engine has never been rebuilt, you would likely never experience problems, especially if you don't drive your car hard and keep it in proper state of tune. You can still put additives in it to help. There are lead substitutes on the market and upper cylinder lubes. You'll find people swearing by or at different brands. Go to auto supply stores and see what's available and read the instructions. Try it and see.

    I have a '69 Corvette with a 427 engine with a rated 11:1 compression ratio. When the engine was rebuilt the compression ratio was lowered to 10.6:1 and I have noticed no detonation issues with 93 octane pump gas. I do add upper cylinder lube occasionally but I don't know if it does anything...it's more of a peace of mind thing I guess.

  8. There is an "ugly Avanti" on e-Bay.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...9138&rd=1,1

    item: 170115179138

    I am interested in a couple of items from it, but do not have the

    space to store it here in TX. Assuming that the parts, exterior and

    some interior will fit the "original" 1963 Avanti, I would be

    interested in sharing bidding on the "ugly Avanti".

    The lead bidder probably should be close to CA.

    If you are interested, please do NOT reply here, I will NOT reply

    publically,

    send me an e-mail and "let us make a deal.."

  9. In one of my more anal-retentive quests, I got the colors (color codes when available) for over 40 paintable parts, not including interior and body paint. This was published in a recent Avanti magazine article.

    I'm going to replace aftermarket wheels with original style steel wheels and hubcaps on my 63 R2. The car is black. Is a black wheel correct? I see that may original photos show white wheels and wanted to make sure that black was the correct wheel color for a black car.

    Thanks!

  10. Well all the NAPA filters that I've cut open, including their Silver Line, have been WIX. I guess both the NAPA distributor and the WIX rep. could also be lying to me...Jim Wood

    I do not have the info on hand any more, but I think that you "were" right on the silver. However, the Silver line has been discontinued in favor of other sub-brands. I believe that I am on firm ground on saying, at this time, only the NAPA Gold are MANUFACTURED by Wix.

  11. first, Wix does NOT make most NAPA filters, only the "NAPA Gold" filters. After a few scores of hours in research, I now stick to WIX and those they make. (Surprise, cheaper than many Fram Filters)

    Second,

    Oil is a favorite advocation of mine. Went to API, SAE, ISO, and test sites and looked it up. Spent about $100 in downloading the real stuff from these sites. Also, the current rebuilder rags were hot on this about 6 years ago. I am planning on offering a paper with my findings either to the SDC or Avanti mags when I get time to put it together.

    The bottom line:

    1. If you are using ANY OIL ADDITIVES, you are either using the wrong oil, or you love enriching people who do not deserve it.

    2. All oils are very heavily designed to have all the additives you will need for your Oil Change Interval (OCI)

    3. For pre-1975 vehicles, your best oil is those rated "CI-4+", "CJ-4", or later. There are several reasons, which I will put in my article with the several technical paper references.

    4. For non-synthetic brands include "Mobil Delvac 1300", "Chevron Delo 400", "Shell Rotella T", "(Citco) Mystic", when in doubt, look for CI-4+ for CJ-4.

    5. Remember, the recommended viscosity was 30W. 15w-40 is way easier on the engine than what the original owner used.

    6. Synthetic? Even better! All of the majors have CI-4+/CJ-4 Synthetics, either 5w-40 or 0w-40. I will use as soon I get the leaks down to a mere "puddle." (cost issues).

    After some more looking around, I found a good post on the Studebaker Driver's Club's forums on the use of oils in Studebaker engines. The link is below:

    Oil to use in Studebaker Engines

    It seems to have a pretty good breakdown of the oils to try to use. I was able to run across quite a bit of the correct type of Shell Rotella T oil that should work well for the car. Also, if a person is in a rural enough area (such as myself), farm implement dealers are a great source for the older types of oils, as tractors and other equipment does not need to meet environmental standards. Biggest thing to watch for would be to make sure it was still a detergent oil so the sludge doesn't build up. What I found so far, so figured I'd share the info. Thanks again all.

  12. Need Brake Part Info:

    Removing the rear axle, see other post. In the process, I am taking the opportunity to check out the rest of the undercarriage.

    Three Questions so far (63 Studebaker Avanti):

    (I already have check all the Studebaker catalogs, paper and on-line, so reference to them is not helpful :) )

    1. what is the manufacturer/manufacturer's part number for the rear drum brakes? I need this for x-ref at auto parts places. Their books do not list "Studebaker"

    2. what is the part number for the nut that connects the brake line to the brake backplate? This was rounded and I "finished" the process.

    3. what is the part number of the bleeder? It is missing. I found the following, is it right? <197097 Bleeder Screw>

    Thanks!

  13. 43 “paintable” parts on Studebaker Avanti

    This list is created from hours of searching enthusiast lists, groups, and websites, and help from http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel/

    additions/corrections/suggestions welcome to 63Avanti@sterkel.org

    Location

    Part:

    Color:

    Notes, including expert references:

    accessory

    Jack Handle

    Black: Flat

    accessory

    Jack

    Red

    need actual hue/shade

    body

    inlet (behind the grill)

    body color

    body

    Inside Hood

    body color

    body

    trunk latch mechanism and striker

    body color

    ???

    Engine Compartment

    Fan shroud

    Black: Flat

    black fiberglass, not painted (StudeRich)

    Engine Compartment

    Coolant Tank

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Distributor

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Fuel Pump

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Heads

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Intake Manifold

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Oil Pan

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Power Steering Pump

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    R1/R2 Engine Block

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Radiator

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    Steering Components

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    steering coupler between column and gearbox (Stan Gundry )

    Engine Compartment

    Water Pump

    Black: Semi-gloss

    Engine Compartment

    R4 Engine Block

    Blue

    need actual hue/shade

    Engine Compartment

    Fender (inside)

    body color

    Engine Compartment

    Firewall

    body color

    Engine Compartment

    R2/R3 Air Cleaner

    chrome

    Engine Compartment

    Valve “Breather” Caps

    chrome

    Engine Compartment

    Valve Covers

    chrome

    Engine Compartment

    R1 Air Cleaner

    chrome w/ black base

    Engine Compartment

    AC

    natural

    Engine Compartment

    Carburator

    natural

    Engine Compartment

    R2/R3 Air box

    natural aluminum

    Engine Compartment

    Brake Master Cylinder

    natural cast iron

    Engine Compartment

    Exhaust Manifold/Headers

    natural cast iron

    Eastwood Gray (StudeRich)

    Engine Compartment

    Transmission Dip Stick (Manual)

    none

    Engine Compartment

    Fan

    Orange-Red

    need actual hue/shade, suggestion: 1. close to Chevy Orange, but tends a little more towards red (njnagel@flycast.net) 2. Red Orange, the reddest Chevy Orange you can find. (StudeRich)

    Engine Compartment

    R2/R3 supercharger

    Orange-Red

    Orange/Red more orange than red. (StudeRich), Semi-gloss Black are replacement units from Paxton (StudeRich)

    Engine Compartment

    R3 Engine Block

    Red

    need actual hue/shade

    Engine Compartment

    Distributor cover

    stainless

    Engine Compartment

    Oil Dip Stick

    stainless

    Engine Compartment

    Transmission Dip Stick (Auto)

    yellow

    need actual hue/shade: suggestion: 1. Pale Yellow (StudeRich)

    suspension/frame

    Axle/Differential

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    Brake drum

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    bumper hangers

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    Drive Line

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    frame

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    (StudeRich)

    suspension/frame

    Front Suspension, A-frame

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    Transmission

    Black: Semi-Gloss

    suspension/frame

    hubcaps/wheel covers

    stainless, polished (brushed between "spokes", black inset accents)

    Suggestions: 1. flat black appliques sometimes seen on eBay, 2. There is a silver paint finish on the back ground between the "spokes" (John Poulos) 3. Krylon 1401 Bright Silver or more closely I think is their 1403 Dull Aluminum (Ted Harbitt), 4. brushed dull stainless (StudeRich)

    suspension/frame

    Exhaust pipes/muffler

    natural

    aluminized steel (silver) (StudeRich)

    suspension/frame

    Brake calipers

    natural cast iron

    Eastwood cast Iron Gray (StudeRich)

    suspension/frame

    wheel 1964

    White: "Astre White"

    Formula at http://www.ncsdc.com/TechnicalPages/PaintForms.htm

    suspension/frame

    wheel 1963

    White: "Creamy"

    need actual hue/shade, suggestions: 1.$4.00 can Sherwin William's Antique white, the S.I. paint

    is way too expensive (John Poulos) 2. I found a 1963 Volkswagen white that is a near perfect match. (Lewis Schucart) 3. Ford Wimbledon White, AKA Ford Truck White, is almost an exact match of the original color of Studebaker Avanti rims (Stan Gundry) 4: Formula at http://www.ncsdc.com/TechnicalPages/PaintForms.htm

  14. About 9? months ago, someone on eBay was selling plastic appliques to stick in the "hollows" of Avanti wheel covers. They were flat black. advertising "better than re-painting"

    I always thought the area between the polished "spokes" was a frosted silver, but I have seen cars with that area darkened to a frosted black appearance. I don't know how correct that is but it appears at least some must have come from the factory that way. I know the wheel covers were earlier '50s Stude wheel covers overstamped to look like spoked wheels, but maybe various production runs or subcontractors may be the difference.

    I never saw the darker wheels in any Studebaker advertisements, so they must have been a later change or authorized alternate wheel cover.

  15. SILVER Dana 44 axle/differential

    Got the "Differential Rebuilding" DVD from www.technicalvideos.com. Great DVD, it had normal and Trac-Lock Dana 44. Came to two conclusions:

    1. I can do this... and

    2. I do not wish to get all that equipment/meters et.al. for one time rebuild.

    Good investment, I now know the jargon, the methods, and the tricks. I found a drive train expert locally and found that he does it for about the same price as I could with buying the parts, consumables, tools and meters.

    Here is my question:

    ALL the differentials/axles in the DVD are painted SILVER!

    What is the standard for Avanti? I thought it was black, did Studebaker repaing the standard Silver axles Black?

    Is there anything wrong with painting my axle Silver?

    thanks!

  16. What is the Authentic Bias Ply for 63 Avanti R2?

    I have a 1963 R2, Looking to go "authentic" due the repeated discussion of how '60s cars do not have

    radially tuned suspensions. Also, that "tall" look looks very retro, and you cannot get that in radials.

    Here are the questions:

    1. What was the original size for Avanti R2, Coker says 670-15, but I have it elsewhere as 950-15.

    2. This is the current Coker offerings, sans pricing, as publishing their pricing would be tacky...

    Which is the "Most Authentic?"

    670-15 B.F.GOODRICH 1 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 B.F.GOODRICH 2 1/2 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 B.F.GOODRICH 3 5/8 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 B.F.GOODRICH BLACKWALL TIRE

    670-15 COKER CLASSIC 2 3/4 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 FIRESTONE 1 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 FIRESTONE 2 1/4 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 FIRESTONE 2 11/16 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 FIRESTONE 3 1/4 INCH WHITEWALL TIRE

    670-15 FIRESTONE BLACKWALL TIRE

    thanks!

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