Hogtrough

Really, the biggest problem with the 3EE is that they stay on the shelves FOREVER due to low demand. Routinely I find two year old batteries in stock at places like Autozone. Mine was recently replaced under warranty at about one year old (total of three since built). The replacement was, as usual. two years old

Turned out to be the heat riser installed on the WRONG (drivers) side by the engine rebuilder. It was free, but did not open when heated up. So I took a spring and wired it open. Now she runs like a scalded dog!

Went ahead and did that. Exhaust manifold itself is around 275-300 degrees, exhaust pipe only a foot away or so is 110. DId they typical vacuum test for restricted exhaust and it showed no problem.

Went ahead and checked. Temp at the manifold collector drops from over 300 degrees to 100 or so in front of the muffler.

I was. thinking the same thing and went out and looked, but very hard to tell from the top. Will jack it up tomorrow and find out. I'm going to start measuring the temp at the manifold and see if somewhere down the line it suddenly changes

My '63 R1 Avanti has distinctly lower pressure from the driver side exhaust pipe - probably a third of the velocity of the passenger side. I checked Youtube and found various ways of checking for exhaust restrictions, including using a thermal imagining camera . Don't have one, but used my trusty laser thermometer instead. The results were rather dramatic: Driver side muffler 104 degrees, can easily hold my hand on it. Passenger side over 300 degrees, hot stove territory. This is a fully rebuilt engine that runs (in my opinion) very strong. What could cause this?

There are a few things that affect the value not seen in the photos, such as the air cleaner housing needing rechroming (and no NOS or repop available), dash pad needs replacing and is covered by a mat, etc. I price them realistically to move. If I do more work to improve the value, I'll increase the asking price accordingly.

I'm a former classic car appraiser and have bought and sold four Studebakers over the last several years- a '54 Conestoga, a '62 GT Hawk, a '57 Silver Hawk, and the '63 R1 Avanti (R4223) I still own. When putting one up for sale, I always try to read the market and price it at roughly 110% of what I expect it to sell for. A much more realistic approach than the pricing I see on many cars listed. I don't use the spaghetti at the wall approach. So far, every car I've listed has sold within a few weeks. Not currently considering selling it, but if at some point I were to sell the Avanti, I would price it between 25 and 30K. This is based on observing the market over the last year or so. The car has an inch thick book of receipts from the previous owner for mechanical repairs, including a thorough engine and transmission rebuild. It has automatic, PS and TT. I've repainted it in Avanti Gold , updated the A/C to a modern system and installed a Turner brake update. Original wheels and hubcaps are in storage. Had I not done much of the work myself, I would probably have 50K in it. I'm probably giving away my labor, but that's OK as that is the part I enjoy.

For mechanical work, find a mechanic who understands old cars in general. Go to a local car show and talk to someone with a 50's car. Anyone who understands 50's cars can understand an Avanti, because underneath, it's basically a '53. And the engine is very similar to early 50's Caddy and Olds motors.

How do you go about gutting the battery? Mine is 6 months old and already faltering, just a matter of time

Where are you located? Have a set I might sell but don't want to ship. I'm near Nashville. Would definitely trade them for an R1 air cleaner with good chrome though

See the article I posted here ... probably not that much extra work and you will have A/C too (assuming you don't have it). These units simply hook up to your heater hoses and you have heat.

I have the later Chrysler minivan Turners and my Magnums fit fine