Hogtrough

I raised mine at the front end by putting thick washers between the lid and the hinge. Still not quite there , but better. The back can be adjusted at the latch slots, which determine how far down it goes

Do you know how I can contact him? Is he parting a '63 or '64 R1?

My daughter and son in law tinker with AI songwriting, so while visiting for the holidays I told her to ask AI to write a song from the perspective of a new '63 Avanti waiting patiently in the showroom for it's new owner. She's a big Toy Story fan so she told it to make it similar to a song in the movie. Here is what it cranked out in about a minute. As you might expect, it failed miserably on the photo attached to the song, so I posted my Avanti below. https://suno.com/song/9f92ace4-33cb-41d8-9aee-34b263ed02ae?sh=MEh30LYupukGKBvI&fbclid=IwY2xjawOayVNleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFOR0VpemFQZGxaNmFjZ1Qwc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHnTBySmWNVzdZY6q04I7gRume-eN-2BWdFFcdP-0GhlQZaCrUnosLX9rSVaQ_aem_Q28XfNXE2LHFENJgDo0j2Q

Sorry for the late reply- its a standard 14 x 20 parallel flow type coil

Sorry, got no notice that there was a reply here and have not been back for a while. I probably do have the switch, or, you can easily repair these old switches because they are made to take apart. Just bend back the tabs, remove the guts, file the corroded contacts, put back togther.

The OEM grille is pretty simple and mine is currently removed while I primer the car. If anyone wants to build one, let me know and I'll supply the measurements. I don't think it is anything more than several straight stainless steel wires cut to particular lengths and mounted to three vertical stainless steel supports. No frame around the outside

Hagerty prices look unrealistic at first, at least to me. However, a big factor is that nearly all sellers would pick a condition number one larger than their car would really deserve. A number two car is driven, but otherwise virtually flawless in every way, and a number one car never leaves the trailer. My Avanti recently experienced a condition downgrade when a body shop I left it with parked it outside with the windows down for 2 months, pretty much reversing everything I had done to the interior and ruining what was left of the paint by sanding it. When I'm done redoing it, with new paint and refurbished interior, the car will be a strong number three R1 with air conditioning, putting it at $27,600. Sounds about right.

....and here are the R2 prices:

I'll take a stab at 63 and 64. R1 needing everything 8K, driveable but needing TLC 12K, nice drivers needing little or no work 20-25K. R2 needing everything 12K, driveable but needing TLC 16K, nice driver needing little or no work 25-30K. I don't know much about the later models. Here is what Hagerty says abouut R1...:

Somehow I never saw this response, sorry. Should you (or anyone) still need AC parts, while i've sold everything else, I do still have the compressor and will take $150 plus shipping. Most likely converted to R134 and I have service shop paperwork stating that.

Not sure why you would have to bench bleed at this point. Simply keep adding fluid and bleeding each wheel until all the air is out. Make sure your helper understands the pedal must stay down until after you tighten the bleeder. Look at the stream of fluid as it exits. If you see any interruption or hear air, there's your problem

Got lucky , it was just this hose leaking air. Disconnected, plugged the port, now stops on a dime again

Yesterday I took my '63 around the block and the brakes were alarmingly bad, all the effort I could muster would barely stop the car (it has a Turner front disc kit with a dual master added earlier this year). I assumed I needed a new booster, but now am not so sure. The pedal sinks as normal when starting the car and it feels like it's getting vacuum, but not enough. Was wondering if anyone knows where this hose leads, as I'm thinking it may be the source of a leak. Maybe the dash vacuum gauge? Everything in the engine compartment looks OK. Anyone ever had a booster that went out, but not completely? I was under the impression it was all or nothing.

It's mounted in the engine compartment on the fender well in the typical place. Much easier to install there than next to condenser

Update: I don't consider the two existing outlets adequate, so I drilled two 2.5" holes in the part of the kick panel facing the back, aligned with the evaporator coil. To trim it out, not being able to find the right size vent outlet, I went to Lowes and got a couple of black plastic "desk grommets" from the drawers in the hardware section. They fit the holes perfectly.