63stick

Sorry, outer frame rails have the rips. Something hanging from dash on pass. side, looks like a gauge.

I think dash was modified for a replacement radio, 2 holes on the X frame are ripped partially out also. Has a nice unshrunk steering wheel though. Underside is a little Mass eaten up.

There is a 63 R1, auto, P/S, A/C, white, Red interior for sale on face book. Located in Mass. From what I could see the boxes are history, carb has been changed out also. $14,500

Dwight, Can you plate just the heads. I don't think you would want to plate the threads. Could cause binding I would think.

Bob. Don't want to bad mouth anyone directly but you have the states correct. When I called about the dried-up crumbling seals, the answer I got was There NOS. just got from a different seller, a pinion seal $90 sealing lip isn't close to orig. one. A rear diff gasket that is so old and shrunk I threw it away, same seller. Just received today from another seller an exhaust set from flange gaskets to hangers and clamps. Can't use the clamps as they won't fit the original hanger holes. The L brackets to the pipes are so thin, I wouldn't even use them and the rubber hangers are so bad, they weren't even cut from the same thickness part of a tire and have cracks in them.

Dwight, I will assume the Olds is not a show car but a daily driver. My car will not be out in inclement weather and it's in a climate controlled building. Coated rotors still rust. I have them on my ML550, Mini, Escalade, MDX, 2500HD and a Suburban. Calipers stay nice, but rotor faces still rust. If I drove them daily rust probably wouldn't build up. Once they get rust on them, they don't clean up real nice and they chew up the pads. Did your car fail for the rotor faces, as I can't see the rotor hubs failing as every car out there would fail.

Talked with HR&B today. Turns out that only Studes with the master under the floor need the valving not the Avanti. And no problems clearing my Halibrands. Ordered the kit today. Thanks for the suggestions! Ordered a set of U joints and the rubber seals behind the door interior handles from one of the big parts suppliers and they arrived yesterday. Oh my God, how can someone with any morals send something out that made my original ones look new compared. The pitting on the caps is so bad, you could never press them in. One was wrapped in white paper packing and it spilled brown powder (rust) all over my counter top. The whole thing was nothing but powdered rust. and $75 ea. The seals literally fell apart in my hands. Cracked and powdered. My originals that have been in the weather since 1963 are so much better. Makes me sick.

Thank you for the various websites and info. Made me rethink it. I checked them all out. I just checked out the installation instructions on both Turner and HR&B. The latter requires modifying the brake lines and installing valves. I don't want to change anything that can't be reversed, such as brake lines. I'll probably call and talk to both of them. I am defiantly going to install one of those kits. Cost wise it doesn't make sense to rebuild my calipers, plus I'll have better braking. I disassembled my calipers and cleaned all the brake fluid out, sprayed them with WD40, bagged them and packed them away. So, it's getting new brakes for sure. My R2 has 19k on it and has never had the blower worked on. ALL the bolts are black.

I'm now starting the front brake overhaul and deciding whether to re sleeve my calipers which are in good condition with stainless while there out. or convert to a Taylor system. I'm not planning on using it a lot. I would rather keep it stock as much as possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also Any recommendations for someone that sleeves the old Bendix. One more thing, All the Superchargers I see are that lovely Studebaker orange. Mine is black from the factory, like the McCulloch on my Golden hawk. Did the color get changed early on. Mine is 1086.

Nelson 63 3186 R1 and I also have my original 63 1086 R2. I have to say, I'm really tired of the prices some of the parts suppliers are charging. My fault for not asking the price of every item. $90 for a pinion seal, 2 U joints $150. They are listed for $20 ea. Invoice comes in $75 ea. Can of fawn spray paint, Expiration date 2014. I'm used to ordering parts from my regular supplier for everyday vehicles. never had to worry.

I could use some help here. I have a NOS set of Avanti rear shocks Part # 1558550. They are adjustable, but I can't read all the instructions on the shocks. Very lightly stamped. I know there are 5 streps but can't make it out as of yet. if someone has the setting info, that would be greatly appreciated. would save my eyes for sure. I'm getting ready to start it after sitting since 1971. I completely tore it down and went through everything. Had tons of NOS parts that were purchased from Youngstown. I would like to drive it again before I die. Have had it since new. But years of sitting in storage with the cars worst enemy Mice, making it there Plaza hotel. it's been a challenge.

I found original speakers. The more I thought about it, the more I want to keep it the way it was when we bought it new in 63. One thing for sure, I would never cut holes where there weren't any. If it was any other year but 63-64, I would not have a problem cutting it up. I've put to much time, energy and money in it, trying to keep it stock. Putting in an upgraded radio was not a good idea with what my intentions are. Not having existing locations for speakers puts the kibosh on it. Rear speakers wouldn't be a problem; I have replacement deck I can cut up. Unless I can figure something out for the front, I'll have to let it go. It just came to me with what you said, I could fabricate the fiberglass console sides top covers. That would allow me to put descent speakers in and would be easy to restore to original. I think I even have fiberglass sheet and new carpet pieces for those panels that came in a carpet set, a guess for a later car. They have about a 2" rnd. hole in the middle. That puts a whole new light on the project. I think I will still put in the new original speaker with wiring should I or someone else want to restore back down the road. Thanks for mentioning about the door panels, It made me think about other places other than the factory location. Makes me wonder why someone cut holes in the tunnel and mounted unprotected speakers in a car I was looking at. Well, I guess it's back to spending money, even more since now I'm going to need 4 good speakers. It's not like the old days. I paid $4k to strip and paint one of my Avanti. $900 for all the chrome. I just paid $14k for stripping and painting and $3k for the front and rear bumpers and valve covers, and I have to wait 3 months for the chrome. Thank you again for your input.

regnalbob Your the best! Thank You

There you have it, CA. Fruits and Nuts

Every Paxton I see in cars is orange like the fans. Mine is original and gloss black. Mine is one of the first 100 built. Did the color get changed? Nobody has ever touched mine except to change oil.