DWR46

Thanks to Nelson Bove and George Krem and others, I carefully researched and updated the R3 listings last year. Engines A-1 through A-10 were built. B1- Dismantled by Paxton 1963 B2- Dismantled by Paxton 1963 B3- Dismantled by Paxton 1963 B4- Exists from a convertible, Texas 2002 B5- Installed in R1722 as of 2010, Paxton sold in 1967, may be 299 cu. in. B6- Installed in R5386, as of 2011, from South Bend Technical School B7- No information B8- R4 engine only, Bonneville #3, parted out, heads saved as of 2000 B9- R4 Lark Convertible Bonneville #3, 299 cu.in. from Paxton August 1963 B10- R3S H320, R5089. 1st production R3, 4-speed "B" numbers at the end skip around, seem pretty consistent thru B117, then B130, B153, B299 and B300. If all numbers through B117 were used we have 131 engines. Remember this is what I have been able to research, more info will be appreciated.

GM switched from the T10 to the Muncie in spring 1963, so late 1963 Corvettes were equipped with Muncie gearboxes. The Cobra rear axle (both 289 and 427) was a Salisbury Power-Lock, based on a Dana 44. It is still around used in Vipers.

MFG: Let me try again. The "wiping" action as the turning camshaft lobe moves across the face of the lifter tends to remove normal lubricants. Once the lubricant is removed or "wiped' away, you have a metal-to-metal interface and both the camshaft lobe and the lifter will be quickly destroyed. ZDDP when added to motor oil resists the tendency of the "wiping" action to remove the lubricant, thus preserving lubricant in this interface area and protecting both the camshaft lobe and the lifter itself. The action of ZDDP is similar to the use of Sulphur in GL5 gear oil. Hypoid rear axle gears, as they mesh, also wipe the lubricant off the metal surfaces. The addition of Sulphur and other additives protects the gear teeth surfaces from being eroded by the "wiping' action of hypoid gears meshing together. Actually the additives embed themselves into the metal of the teeth and then get slowly wiped away (not in any measurable amounts) and sacrificed to protect the teeth.

OK, a few clarifications. 1. Catalytic Converters don't like ZDDP. That is why the EPA forced the reduction of ZDDP in today's engine oils. 2. "Slickness" is not the problem. ZDDP provides protection against the "wiping" action of the camshaft against the lifter. This is the failure point in engines with fairly high valve spring pressures and non-roller lifter valvetrains, if the engine does not have adequate levels of ZDDP in the oil. Many older engines were not performance designs and used low valve spring pressures and as such, even today, will not reflect valve train problems using lesser amounts of ZDDP in the engine oil. 3. While synthetic oils have definite advantages, they are "slicker" and as a result will find ways to leak in older technology engines. Individuals may have Studebaker engines that do not leak with synthetic oils and that is good, but engines not designed for synthetic oils, will, as a result of the design, have a greater tendency to leak oil when the are filled with synthetic oils.

STP does have some ZDDP, but not a lot. My personal view is to use either Valvoline VR1, or Castrol Classic oil. Either one has levels of ZDDP that will protect American pushrod engines. What STP will do is add viscosity. It is useful in engines that need a "thicker" oil due to bearing wear. STP does "cling" to surfaces and helps parts stay lubricated when the engine is not run for a while.

MFG: Absolutely great point regarding the location of the air cleaner vs. rain and snow. Also agree Studebaker had many more important things to worry about at that time.

Not trying to disagree with anybody, but air filter removal is easy. Just unscrew the front grille and the filter is right in front of you. I realize it is not 30 seconds like many cars, but basically no problem at all.

Fourward: the lip or "ridge" is a "blow off lip". The clamp (in theory) goes on the radiator side of the lip to prevent the hose from blowing off the radiator if you have a pressure build up. The lip is there to prevent the clamp and hose from sliding off the pipe.

I am not a big fan of this approach, but I have used it successfully on some pre-war (WWII) cars with badly corroded aluminum water pumps. Coat the pipe on the radiator with a light covering of black silicone (RTV) and then install the hose. The silicone "gasket maker' will fill in any deviations in the seal and you will have no leaks.