DWR46

MFG: Absolutely great point regarding the location of the air cleaner vs. rain and snow. Also agree Studebaker had many more important things to worry about at that time.

Not trying to disagree with anybody, but air filter removal is easy. Just unscrew the front grille and the filter is right in front of you. I realize it is not 30 seconds like many cars, but basically no problem at all.

Fourward: the lip or "ridge" is a "blow off lip". The clamp (in theory) goes on the radiator side of the lip to prevent the hose from blowing off the radiator if you have a pressure build up. The lip is there to prevent the clamp and hose from sliding off the pipe.

I am not a big fan of this approach, but I have used it successfully on some pre-war (WWII) cars with badly corroded aluminum water pumps. Coat the pipe on the radiator with a light covering of black silicone (RTV) and then install the hose. The silicone "gasket maker' will fill in any deviations in the seal and you will have no leaks.

I thought I would share the actual measured weight of my Avanti. It is a non-factory built R3. EVERYTHING on the car has been converted to R3 specs, including drivetrain, body, suspension and interior items. It is an automatic. We always see lots of numbers quoted in magazine articles and the old factory ads, but here are real numbers from our race scales: LF: 1.039 lbs RF: 1,000 lbs LR: 709 lbs RR: 688 lbs. The car had 8 gallons of fuel in it when weighed. Therefore the actual weight of the car is 3,388 lbs. with NO fuel, but including spare tire, lug wrench and jack.

I think Ronman is going in the correct direction. It appears no voltage is going to the ignition coil when the key is in the "start" position. When the key is returned to the "run" position, you get voltage to the coil (or electronic unit). Sometimes you are getting lucky and turning the key back to the "run" position while the motor is still turning enough to start the engine.

Rick: Same system as Jaguar and Ferrari in the era. American car mechanics were NOT familiar with the Dunlop disc brake system.

Take out the bleed screw. You will find it has a conical indentation instead of a tapered point. The conical indentation is what presses against the ball to seal the bleeder. Many people lose the ball and then tighten the bleeder super tight to try to stop the seepage. All that does is ruin both the bleeder and the ball's seat in the cylinder.

I would say just about everything!

The factory 1963-64 Prestolite ALE 5003 alternators were rated at 40 amps, with or without A/C.

Nelson: Thank you for the prompt response. Please check your PM.

Are there any lists of the R3 Engines used at Bonneville? Obviously engines built after October 1963 would not be a potential Bonneville engine.

Have any owners installed the heavier 7/8 or 1 inch front and 3/4 inch rear Swaybars offered by some of the Avanti parts vendors? If so, how do you like them and were there any problems in the installation on 1963-64 Avanti's.