Rick Allen

It would be helpful if you provide a link to the auction site!,,,

Thanks, there should be plenty of that around,,,

Anyone know who has the correct color orange paint for the R2 supercharger and cooling fan (if their the same) or something very close in an over-the-counter paint like Krylon/Dupli-color etc.?

Hopefully it will do the job for you, it's certainly not a cheap one,,,thanks

Yes, the more precautions the better; what fuel pump did you choose for the sniper, I know EFI requires a lot more PSI than the 6-7 psi a carb does?,,,

It looks good, its mounted lower than the tank as it should be; I don't see any wires so I guess your still working on that, hope you plan to install a relay and pump shut-off switch in the circuit to kill the power to the pump in case of catastrophic engine failure like loss of oil pressure, etc.,,,

Great, thanks a lot for sharing,,,

Even though not original your engine compartment does look very nice, I'm curious about the electric power steering wondering if you can get more details about how you made it, what you had to buy etc,,,

Not looking to find or use type A, I'm sure there is a modern equivalent, my question is since the Studebaker and Ford cast iron transmissions were almost identical from the mid-50s forward, is type F an acceptable replacement as I have cases of F on the shelf for my cruise-o-matic,,,

Book says Type A fluid is correct for my '64 R2 automatic transmission; my '62 Ford uses type F and I remember reading somewhere A can be substituted for F in the Ford so is the reverse true for the R2 transmission?,,,

A lot of crazy things going on back then and yet it all got documented; thanks for the info,,,

I see the reason given for the change is "Di-Noc material not satisfactory", I don't know what Di-Noc is or means, and what they meant by not satisfactory; did Studebaker go back to the previous color applique or is that when they went to wood-grain for the coming '64 models?

I found it interesting, the auction shows a picture of a page from the 2015 Avanti Magazine showing Avanti which received "black interior components". I assume it means things other than seats, door panels, etc., but things like dash, radio, steering wheel & column, and console trim were black; the car is listed as 1 of 1833 R2 "variants"; it that considered to be the same as "running changes"? Also, later I found, but not on the auction site, the document (pictured below) which I guess supports the "black interior components" changes!

In the factory parts manual, on page 24 of the fuel section, there is a picture of the exploded fuel pump with a C 4024 number below it, don't know what the number represents, is it a Carter #? My fuel pump from my R2 has the number 0-1529 so I'm wondering if it is the correct pump for an R2 or a replacement somewhere along the way, I know the pumps for an R1 and R2 have different part numbers in the pats manual, don't want to order a rebuild kit if it is not the right fuel pump!,,,

Thank for the info, even though I believe my pump to be original since my R2 has been the road since 1973 , I'll have to clean it up and look for a number so I be sure to order the correct kit; I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine and am torn between using the original mechanical pump or an electric pump mounted back on the frame below the fuel tank,,,

Yes, others have said the same thing, but it shows a lot of parts the original pump does not show in the Avanti manual, 3 valves, 3 springs, 3 extra rubber parts, etc., if those parts are not needed (unless those parts are there but not shown in the manual?), seems to me only the diaphragm assembly is the most critical part and that can be bought for $22 on e-bay, Carter brand, USA made too!

I also thought it could be a misprint, and it is also from the Avanti workshop manual, page 5 of general specifications, wonder if it could be some other type of connecting rod measurement?

Trying to determine the connecting rod bearing clearance after I had my crank polished, shop said it was in good condition and only needed to be polished, not cut and use std. bearings. Under the engine section of the workshop manual, if I'm reading the correct specifications for what I am trying to measure, it lists the connecting rod bearing clearance as to being .00025 - .00275 inch. Is .00025 even measurable with plastigage, the green plastigage goes from .001 - .003 inch; or am I misinterpreting something here wrong?

Saw this on a facebook Avanti swap page, saying this rebuild kit for a Ford is the same as the Avanti pump but high quality and less expensive than the other vendors; could it be?,,, Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On

On the 289 R2 can the oil pan be removed to access the bottom end of the engine with the engine still in the car? And is it just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts or does the engine have to be lifted also to remove the pan?

If the reproduction rotors are manufactured to the original factory specifications, then that is good to know. My original rotors measure 3.65 so they're in good enough shape to resurface, they only need to be cleaned up,,,

The manual lists the factory thermostat at 170 degrees but seems one of that temperature range is hard to find so what is the best choice for an R2 engine, a 160 or a 180? I should add that the engine is newly rebuild, so I would imagine more friction initially so more heat?

Is this on the oil pan itself? A picture would help a lot,,,

I have a friend that has a 3.31 TT from a '63 Hawk, is that the same as the Avanti rear?,,,

Couldn't find the minimum thickness of the factory disc brake rotor in any specifications section but found a small paragraph in the brake section saying the minimum thickness is .330", is that correct?