Rick Allen

My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it. I know this is a baffle that attaches somehow above the oil pump but not sure exactly how. I I assume it would attach to one of the closest main bearing bolt caps but none of my bolts have a provision to bolted in place there. Am I missing two special bolts that would have a threaded section that this baffle could be bolted to or is there some other way it should attach to the bottom of the engine block?

My R2 engine was completely disassembled when I got, now trying to sort out the parts to assembly it. I found 2 crank bolts, 1 is significant heavier than the other so which is correct for my 289 R2 engine?,,,

Thank you,,,

Thank you for your reply. Even without the silver paint, your G2 mark is much deeper and more defined than the marks on mine. Do you have a mark 180 degrees opposite of the mark you show, it may be very faint as mine are?,,,

Assembling my R2 engine, these retainers or locks came with some small parts along with the complete engine kit, some people say to use them on the nuts on the connecting rods other people say not to, as they may come loose and fall off in the engine. Wondering what the consensus is, to use them or not to use them, and if so, should they go on with the top facing up or opposite? Also just how tight to put them on, don't know if there's a torque rating for something this light duty or not, I have provided pictures of them going on either way as an example,,,

A little bit confused about the correct mark on the harmonic balancer for the ignition timing. I'm reassembling my R2 engine after the Machine Shop work, which was completely apart when I bought it so I don't know exactly how everything was to begin with. The harmonic balancer has two faint marks on it, one seems to be halfway across the width, the other seems to be more in the middle but not completely end to end of the width, they are 180° opposite each other. The one with the F3 next to it seems to be less defined or not as deep impression as the one opposite it but that's the one (f3) that seems to line up with the degree indicator provided I put everything together right as far as the cam/crank gears Etc., neither mark is really etched into the balancer as I would have expected it to be in order to see when timing the ignition. Hoping someone out there could give me a definite answer based on their experience I have included pictures of the balancer and the marks on it,,,

Aren't the longbolts through the rocker assembly 83 2 and 7 or am I wrong?

Assembling my R2 engine and following the torque sequence in the factory manual, I am wondering why those 5 bolts have double numbers, the 19 to 23, does that mean those bolts should be torque last for the 2nd time?,,,

Thanks, I did remove the caps from the rocker shafts to clean it out,,,

Cleaning up the push rods for my R2 engine rebuild and I'm wondering if these push rods should be open at both ends for oil to flow through, both ends have a dark spot as shown in the picture but it seems very hard, don't know if it's dried up oil or if they are supposed to be solid on each end, any help with this would be appreciated,,,

So that would NOT be a "full oil flow" block or am I mistaken? When did full flow start?,,,thanks

Thank you,,,

Not sure if I should be posting this here or not, I'm trying to identify this engine number, I know it's not an Avanti engine block, I'm thinking it's a 259 block but not sure what the year is, I do have a chart with Studebaker V8 engine numbers but I can't seem to locate this particular number. I'm reading it as P75672 if anyone can ID it?,,,

Good point, I'll double check to see the numbers are the same, thank you,,

The dowel pins to locate the cylinder heads are missing from my R2 engine block, seems they may have been removed when the block was machined and never replaced, so my question, are there any drawbacks to installing the heads without them?,,,

thanks to all who replied to my post with the information I need it, I do have both Factory manuals but I would never have thought to look in the electrical section for the location of these brackets,,,

Yes, they didn't upload the 1st time, they did now,,,thanks

Yes, they didn't upload the 1st time, they did now,,,thanks

Pretty sure these brackets are attached to the cylinder head bolts at some location on the heads (R2 engine), does anyone have a diagram or can tell me where they should be and/or what attached to them ?

Recently purchased a 63 R2 289 engine which come out of the machine shop but hadn't been assembled. My question is concerning the cylinder heads, they're not marked in any way that I can see whether they're left or right, driver or passenger side, I'm just wondering if it matters which side of the engine they go on and if it does, is there a way to tell by numbers Etc?

Have you considered going to LED bulbs in your factory tail/brake light housing? They are very bright compared to the old-style bulbs, adding a 3rd brake light I think would look out of place and to some people gaudy but to others, not,,,

That's what I figured, thank you,,,

Working on my '64 R2 and the factory manual indicates to torque the connecting rod caps to 52 ft lbs but watching the video of Petes' garage, he is working on a '62 289 and says the torque is 32 ft lbs. I doubt the torque is different for a '62 vs '63/'64 289 so is the manual wrong or is Pete? Below is the video, FF to around 29 minutes in to see his commentary,,,

Are you talking about an original '63 Studebaker mono AM radio that you want to convert to blue tooth?

Read at one time that NGK XR4 (5858) plugs would be good choice for a '64 R2 with stock ignition, anyone can confirm that?,,,