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Stuart Boblett

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Posts posted by Stuart Boblett

  1. 6 hours ago, IndyJimW said:

    No, a single bulb should not cause a problem. I ran rear LED turn signal bulbs for quite a while with normal 1157 front turn signal bulbs, that was enough current to operate the flasher. You can run LED and regular bulbs in the parking light circuit it doesn't care.  The only time you need to replace the flasher is if the system isn't drawing enough circuit from the LED lights to operate the flasher.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

     

    Thank you Jim, that was my thought but I still cannot figure out why I get these results. One of the great mysteries of Avanti I guess. If I come up with an answer I will let everyone know and I appreciate everyone's assistance.

  2. I have an 82 Avanti and upon swapping the existing tail / parking light 1057 bulb with a compatible LED bulb the parking lights work with the headlights on and the turn signals work but not in just the parking light mode. The front and side parking lights work normally.  When using the incandescent 1157 bulb the parking lights work normally in the parking light mode. Does anyone have any idea? Thanks.

  3. Hell folks, I have another difficult problem that I need your help on. On the side of the Automatic OD transmission there is a "device" that installs into the transmission and the speedometer cable and a couple wires connect to it. I thought initially that it was a cruise control sensor but have been advised that it is a "Speed Sensor" that connects to the computer. I was told that these were specifically made for Avanti and are hard to come by. Mine is leaking transmission fluid and supposedly that is a symptom for failure in the near future throwing a check engine light. The cost of these is about $500. dollars which really crazy. Is anyone familiar with these devices, had problems and have any suggestions? Thanks a bunch, this has got me flabbergasted and I can find no reference to it elsewhere in this forum. 

  4. 26 minutes ago, silverstude said:

    Here's the manual for a Dana Cruise unit/  Might help...

     

    https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/CruiseC/ESC/ESC.html

     

     

    I think mine is a Dana but will check. I do not see reference to  a part for this that plugs into the side of the transmission that the speedometer cable connects to and has wires coming off. Maybe what I have on the transmission is not related to the Cruise Control. Any ideas anyone?

  5. 2 hours ago, Jim78 said:

    Another thought just came to mind...  A number of years ago, I was having a problem with play in the steering on my '78.  After much searching, I found that the steering box was actually moving on the frame.  IIRC, the steering box that was used in that era was no longer the Studebaker box, but one from a fork lift.  The holes in the box were oversize for the diameter of the bolts that mount it to the frame.  Tightening the bolts cured the problem.  The easy check for this is to have an assistant rock the steering wheel +/-  about 30 degrees while you watch the steering box for any motion. 

    As far as the bellcrank,  while you or your mechanic are under the car, grab the bottom end of the bellcrank where the tie rods are attached.  Try to move it up/down.  Any movement there suggests a possible problem with the center pivot, or the pinch bolt that hold the bellcrank to the shaft.. 

    Thank you Jim, this is really a help. I am going to give these a try. I appreciate the offer, I do have the original maintenance manual but appreciate your offer. 

  6. Thank you Jim, you may have saved me the expense and disappointment if this did not solve the problem.  Mine has much more play then a friend's 77 so I had his mechanic take a look at it and this was his diagnosis. I may compare his play to mine in the same configuration to confirm.  I had it aligned by a local shop and asked them about the play and they said it was ok but I am not convinced. It may be hard these days to find someone who is familiar with the old center bellcrank and kingpin systems. Thanks and stay safe, hopefully I may run into you sometime at a show, I am in Roanoke.

  7. Does anyone have a cross reference and a supplier for the power steering control valve for and 82 and earlier Avanti? Mine has too much play that transfers over to the steering.  

    I hope everyone is doing well in this huge crisis we are all going through. I am social distancing by working on my Avanti alone which sure beats just sitting around watchin TV or reading.

    Thanks.

    65551309_2484445648253839_3186447678695276544_o.jpg

  8. Can someone suggest where to get carpet or cocoa floor mats for my 82 Avanti II? I ordered a set from one distributor but they were too large and did not have a slot for the floor mounted gas pedal. They did refund my purchase price when I sent a picture.

     

  9. I recently acquired an 82 Avanti II and the previous owner had the front brakes upgraded but does not remember what he put on it or if it a turner kit. It has the Magnum 500 wheels that rub the calipers without a 1/4" spacer. With a spacer the amount of threads available for the lug nuts is too small to be safe, about 1/4". The lug studs are 1/2-50 1.625 long with a .650 knurl (Dorman 610-132) but I have been unable to find these any longer. Does anyone have any suggestions?

  10. I recently acquired an 82 Avanti from the original owner and I am disappointed in the quality of the paint job. I was told that it was original except for a front fenders but there is a large amount of orange peel and checking all over the car. Is this typical of the cars of this era? Maybe this is why most of the ones you see are light colored and not black like mine.

  11. The more I see and hear the more I think I will try to keep all the junk for a while since it is not running bad. When the original wimpy motor gives up the ghost or all the stuff becomes more of a problem, I will probably replace the whole thing but hopefully that will be a while. I will try to just drive and enjoy it for a while. I did find the water temp sending unit hidden right where you all said it was, right under the exhaust manifold.  Now to figure out the best way to get to it, probably from underneath. I am a life long Chevy guy but they sure seem to not like people working on their SB engines with stuff like this sender, the spark plugs, the distributor etc being in very difficult locations especially for these old antique hands and body.

     

  12. The 58,000 mile engine runs pretty well with the exception of a fairly strong gasoline smell inside that I have not run down yet. It is not a power house for sure but will do for now.  My next step on that is to pull the rear seat and check the seal and hoses at the tank. So far I have not found a visible leak or dampness but there are many hoses in the system that I have not gotten to yet. I know the gasohol crap that is shoved down our throats is hell on rubber hoses and components in the carburetor. 

  13. Thanks again, mfg. I have already eliminated the cat and plan to get rid of all the other junk I can. I will get a carb and distributor for a late 70s 305 chevy, hopefully that will really clean things up and make everything more tune-able  for this old shade tree mechanic. This stuff looks like the typical knee jerk reaction to more bureaucratic  government mandates. Your responses are really appreciated.

  14. I have a newly acquired 82 with all the computer controlled carb and other stuff as well as the smog pump (maybe CA car) and associated junk. I have been corresponding with several other owners who replied to a different thread but thought I would post an additional thread in case some one who might wish to input. I would like a good description and advise on how to eliminate the standard computer controlled carb and all the related stuff as well as eliminating the smog pump and all the plumbing and wires associated with it. Does anyone else have any suggestions or comments. Thanks everyone.

  15. On 12/24/2018 at 5:43 PM, popeyesteve said:

    I do have a 1982, still with all the original stuff under the hood. The temperature sending unit for the gauge is impossible to see from above, since it is hidden by the exhaust manifold A/C compressor mounting bracket and the sheet metal spark plug heat shielding. The sensor is the standard one as you have shown.

    Thanks Popeyesteve, I am still trying to get a handle on my newly acquired car. Does yours have all the anti smog "junk" with a zillion hoses, tubes plumbed into the exhaust and many valves throughout the firewall? I bought my car from the original owner and think he acquired it from a Virginia Dealer who got it from a California dealer. Thanks.

    On 12/24/2018 at 6:24 PM, mfg said:

    The sender in your photo, (sometimes called a thermal switch) and its 'brother' hidden under the fuel bowl vent hose, are parts of the GM 'Computer Command Control' system which was used on '81-'85 Avantis.

    This rather complicated system really did not age well....and can sometimes be a real headache to deal with.  (Sometimes a very expensive headache!!:o)

    The computer controlled Quadrajet carburetor occasionally can have a mind all its own!!

    Hopefully, your Avanti's CCM system is functioning correctly.......however, if it isn't, consider eliminating the computer control entirely and replacing the CCM Quadrajet with an earlier version (say,1979) mechanical (vacuum) controlled Quadrajet, and a non-CCM vacuum advance distributor....(An Edelbrock carb is another good choice!)

    Doing this can sometimes make a 'balky' Avanti a much more pleasant automobile to own and drive!:)

    Thanks mfg, I appreciate your input. I was just contemplating that very thing today. Do you know if there is a good description on here or elsewhere describing the best way to eliminate all that CCM stuff as well as all the smog pump and related junk. I cannot even find a systemic drawing on either system for my year car.

  16. Is the water temperature sending unit the unit in the picture on what I think is thermostat housing and has a  beige body that is underneath the air cleaner hose opening. What I have does not seem to match up with any wiring diagrams I have but I think they were for the early cars. I just want to confirm before I start yanking wires and pulling senders. Thanks.

    water temperature.jpg

  17. 12 hours ago, GlennW said:

    Yes, removing both wires from the ammeter and connecting them to each other will only take the ammeter out of the system, everything else will be the same. Are they just ring terminals on threaded posts? If so, you can just use the largest size capscrew & nylock nut that will fit, and tape them securely with good quality electrical tape like 3M 33+. I'd use a button head socket capscrew so that combined with the nylock nut, there won't be any sharp corners. If you add another wire & ring terminal with an appropriate length of wire when you connect the two ammeter wires, you'll have the wire needed for the + side of the new voltmeter. The negative will go to the nearest - wire or suitable metal. Keep in mind not all metal in an Avanti is "grounded" i.e. common to the battery +. You don't need to use as heavy a wire for the voltmeter as the ammeter, just whatever the volt meter takes, probably 18ga or less. 

    Thanks GlenW, that is what I thought. I do have one more question. Is the ammeter circuit hot all the time and connecting a third wire for the voltmeter will cause a continual though slight draw on the battery? I think I know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again.

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