r1lark

Stu, I would suggest investing in an Avanti shop manual and using it when you do work on your car. The manual describes the distributor installation (just as Nelson described it above), along with most other work you might do on the car. Most all the larger vendors should be able to fix you up, and some may have it in a digital version.

Good to meet you at the Maggie Valley meet Dan!

$51K, not too bad!

Who made/sold the kit?

If you drilled out the '61/'62 bellhousing as Ed suggests, you could use either an early T10 or the later T10. I guess that is "either direction".

@JimM JimM, you messaged me about this parts manual, and I responded back to your message. Haven't heard anything back from you, do you still want it?

The serial number is RQB-1582 which is a 1970. It was also converted from a chrome bumper to the later style bumpers. The factory didn't do the convertible conversion..................read part of this Turning Wheels article that I've posted below. The full article is here on Bob Johnstone's site: http://studebaker-info.org/AOAI/AOAI92/1985ConvProto.html This car for sale is the Doyne prototype:

False, because the VS at least requires a kickdown switch and wiring to be adapted that the Lark didn't use.

I'll say #4, eight parts because I think there are 5 balls, plus the ball driver, and two races. (if the output shaft surface is damaged, that would be another item to replace.)

This item has been SOLD! Studebaker Tar and Road Oil Remover Can, from 1963/1964, very nice condition, empty, displays very nicely, see pictures. Great item for your man cave, or to display with your Studebaker or Avanti. $18 plus USPS shipping cost. Payment via check or Zelle. If interested, or have questions, please either message me via this forum, or email me at: r1lark at aol dot com (letter "r", numeral "one", lark)

Don't know if there is any real right or wrong to this. I've found that (on Larks at least, haven't had an Avanti yet) there are a lot more places for wear on the suspended pedal clutch linkage. I have one 'thru the floor' clutch linkage car ('54 Regal 4-door sedan) and several Lark suspended setups, but I think I prefer the under the floor setup better. I'm sure to the buying public it was a big improvement at the time................and of course a 'thru the floor' clutch would look pretty stupid on a "modern" sports car like the Avanti. Anyway, I'll say FALSE because of the increase in the number of wear points.

*SOLD* Original Avanti Chassis and Body Parts Manual, Used Used Avanti Chassis and Body Parts Manual, used condition. All there, some small areas of rodent damage on first sheet (page), and then smaller areas on the next eleven or so sheets. $20 plus USPS shipping cost. Payment via check or Zelle. If interested, or have questions, please either message me via this forum, or email me at: r1lark at aol dot com (letter "r", numeral "one", lark)

This item has been SOLD! Original Avanti Workshop Manual, “Well Used” Used Avanti Workshop Manual, well used with greasy fingerprints on some pages, small tears, etc. The nice thing about this manual is that, being original, the pictures are very clear, easy to see unlike some of the reprints. Took pictures of the worst greasy fingerprints, most of the pages are fairly clean. Does not have original front and rear covers (front is a copy of an Avanti manual cover glued to a piece of posterboard). $22 plus USPS shipping cost. Payment via check or Zelle. If interested, or have questions, please either message me via this forum, or email me at: r1lark at aol dot com (letter "r", numeral "one", lark)

Loved it, thanks for posting!

Now that you have gotten used to your new Avanti, check out the "Tail of the Dragon" in North Carolina, which is US129. Google it, it's not too far from you.

Not knowing much about the Paxton blowers...........I'm going to say false. My reasoning is that removing springs will make the ball drive assembly even more likely to slip and damage the balls and races.

Ok, let's try this. The vacuum/boost gauge, which is hooked to the engine -- the boost side of the gauge does nothing on a R1.

I think he drove an Avanti.

But they sure don't make any difference in how the engine runs (the engine will have proper operation even if you take the chrome plating off the parts and paint them). 🙂

So, if the original style has NOT been reproduced, then your original question you posed is TRUE (like I said)!

I'll take a shot at this and say true, since I would think that the current offerings (for example: https://avantiparts.biz/accelerator-pump-seal-r-2-avanti-lark-hawk/) are of a better design and material.

Chrome on the valve covers, chrome on the valley cover, chrome on the engine oil dipstick, chrome on the air cleaner, chrome on the oil filler caps. Is this the stuff you mean?

Mr. Addison, who I think was Wilbur's neighbor.

Bill, a little off topic but.......................what size tires are you running on your '64 Daytona?