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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Thanks for the thoughts. The dash is an Intellitronix setup I bought many years ago and saved for a project, obviously the 74 Avanti. Good luck with your seat choice and keep us in the loop on your installation.
  2. If you feel the 44 won't have the strength, have a Ford 9" built with the correct width and disc setup. That will handle the horsepower and the stopping if you believe the discs are necessary. By the time you find one strong enough from an existing vehicle and modify it to fit, you'll probably have a major down payment on a 9" setup. Personally, I probably start with the 44 if it's in good nick and get the LS installed. Drive it for a while as it will take a fair amount of abuse with street tires and see if the car stops and handles adequately. If it needs better stopping and it has the original Dunlop setup consider either a Turner or this setup https://hotrodsandbrakes.com/ or talk to Tom about his adapters http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/sbca96/Cobradisk/cobradiskm.html Or maybe just go to something better. You can find a couple of folks that supply upgraded frames and suspensions if you Google them but here's one from Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Avanti-Studebaker-Chassis-Conversion-/263096998485 There is any number of solutions but until you get one up and running you won't quite know how far you need to go. If you want to improve everything to a 2019 performance level it will get pricey quick. It only takes money and only you know your budget.
  3. The rear would be difficult due to the unusual shape of the back rest. You might want to price getting it recovered or dyed if it's not torn. I used Pontiac G6 leather seats in my 74. I also looked at earlier Mustangs 05 -08 or so and liked them. I never checked fit but most newer car buckets are pretty close to the correct size. The biggest issue is are or can they be made low enough to provide head room. The 14 Mustang is worth a long look. Because they generally need to have a custom base made you can generally make them fit the Avanti setup. I used the seatbelt mounting spots because they thread directly into the frame and are much stronger than to original mounts at the rear of the front seat. Here are some shots of my install. Seat mounted in car Mount in place that uses G6 track and Avanti seat belt rear mounting position An here's a video of the completed interior of the 74 with the G6 seats, 89 custom built and upholstered dash and the remainder of the interior dyed from a cr@p tan and brown to a glossy and satin black combination. I will eventually have the G6 seats reupholstered to match the rear.
  4. Of course there are, probably from the newer class of 8" Ford products but why. Any axle from another vehicle would need to be modified with the brackets to mount to the Avanti which has a very narrow track compared to today's vehicles at a minimum. Drive shaft connection would also need to be modified and most axles will be too wide in track width. Take a walk through a local wrecking yard and start looking under rear drive vehicles and see what will fit. Be sure to check wheel lug spec also. With the Turner setup available why raise the degree of difficulty for little to no gain. My 83 and 74 both have either Levesque or Turner front disc conversions and stop quite well. Also know that the N/A cars went to larger rear brakes from a Chevrolet pickup by the time both my 74 and 83's were put on the road. Stopping this things is not a major problem when everything is in good operating shape. I'm running way more engine in both my cars than most folks and I'm not coming close to converting to rear discs.
  5. Thanks Gary, I'll go back to posting from Imgur in the future. Can you see me now.
  6. WayneC Thanks for the input. I switched to using Google Photos a while back instead of Photobucket or Imgur. You're the first person that has said they had issues with the posts either here or on the other sites I post on. I'll do some investigation and possibly start a new post with various third party sources later to see if others have issues. I believe there are a couple of folks posting on the SDC forum using Google Photos and they haven't had any issues I know of. I use Chrome and Edge browsers with no problems, mainly Chrome for posting and surfing as a thought.
  7. If you plan to use a Vintage Air heat/cool/defrost setup, I believe you will lose the makeup air through the heater that the OEM system has. I don't remember the a/c part of the OEM system, which as you know, is a separate unit using outside air directly. What you gain is a more compact system that contains all the functions and the smaller more efficient compressor of the newer systems. While I know it's possible to use the newer mechanicals on the older system it just wasn't designed for them. What did I do? Instead of a Vintage unit, I opted for one from Southern Air. It came with everything I needed to hook it up but because of the way I wanted to mount it and the plumbing I needed to buy a few more fittings. Pretty easy and inexpensive. You will also want to plan where to put the a/c outlets but you've done that many time previously. I blocked off the makeup air inlet to the old unit figuring the other vents would provide air if I need it in my 74. The compressor is an easy job, as the adapters are available to replace the C6? OEM with the Sanyo one. I have mine converted to a 90's Camaro serpentine drive setup and there was an adapter for that also. The condenser is also a straight-forward install due to the way the radiator is mounted it leaves a lot of options on mounting bracket location. Now the most important answer you want is how does it work? Well I haven't started it up yet as it needs refrigerant but I suspect it will be fine. As a final thought, Vintage Air helps a lot as they sell a mockup unit which I'd strongly suggest investigating. Wish I had better data on performance but thought I'd share my thoughts considering you know how the units perform in other cars. Condenser setup Compressor setup with dryer installation shown. Hoses installed to utilize current opening to minimize firewall work.
  8. That's why it pays to ask - no dumb questions.
  9. After you have pulled the knobs off the levers by loosening the set screws that hold them on, you can remove the plate that covers the area of the console that holds the lever assembly. Once the cover is off, you will see the control cables that accentuate the controls are just held in-place with a clamp held by a screw and the cables just loop over the side of the lever. The lever assembly is held to the console base with a set of small bolts. This is the assembly in my 74.
  10. You could possibly be missing the ground. On the newer gauges it's usually a wire attached to a mounting stud if a terminal is not present.
  11. I've watched the episode at least three times since it aired, generally with the sound muted. Once you get past the angst and BS of the show/episode, it's a darn nice Avanti. I was going to remove the bumpers from my 74 but Just couldn't get past how fragile the unprotected body is like this one. I don't know how long this link will last as the car was sold but here are a ton of pictures of it. https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/4044-cha/1983-avanti-restomod
  12. If you are going SBC/700R4 then buy the later II version 1966-85 or 66-83 if you like the chrome bumpers, it will be a drop in as they came with the SBC and the OD trans is a bolt on/in. When I bought my 83 it had steering very much like you describe. When I took it in for an alignment the shop said it needed a rebuild before it could be aligned. I opted for a complete rebuild which I did in my garage with about $1000 in parts including rebuilt kingpins. I added KYB shocks and urethane bushings to the swaybars. The tires are about double the footprint of the originals and radials. I may not be a vette but it does steer straight and the ride and steering are pretty precise for the origin of the suspension. A comfortable roadworthy driver. Rearend is a widely used Dana 44 that has great dependability and parts availability. Along with the hog troughs take a good look at the frame particularly from the front rear spring mount over the axle including the rear cross member. Also remember a paint job is not cheap so either figure one into the purchase price or buy one already done. Nothing against a period Mustang but you'll be passing yourself consistently. Not so much with an Avanti. Bob
  13. Probably to late but my 74 axle assembly looks like yours with the 6 instead of 4 attachment bolts. When I changed gear ratios and added trac lok IIRC I used a 72 IH Scout 2 rear axle bearing assembly kit. https://scoutparts.com/Dana_44_Rear_Axle_Bearing_And_Seal_Kit_394686C91_Scout_II_Scout_II_Diesel/p14076 The kit will also fit my 83 rear assembly as I bought the parts for it but ended up having it done professionally so They were available when I did my 74. I also greased the rear wheel bearings before installation. I can't say how long it'll last as it won't hit the road until late spring. Just can't stand the thought of steel on steel with no lube no matter how short the contact time.
  14. Great news - Would you post when they become available so as folks search for them they'll find this post. Thx
  15. M&M When I purchased my 74 it badly needed paint so I used the razor blade method to remove all the layers. I had more time than sense as I'm retired and i'll now say "good decision on the soda blasting". Soda blasting is not easy to find locally but from later experience I would have used West Marine's Aqua-strip paint remover as it worked very well taking bc/cc off a truck shell. A quick thought - As a California sourced car it should have a decent underside but if you haven't already, put it on the hoist and look very carefully at the frame and hog troughs. Pay particular attention to the frame from the front spring mounts for the rear springs to over the rear axle. Avanti's have a unique way of rusting out in that area. Also check the rear cross member as it holds up a large portion of the rear of the car. If you need hog troughs it's the time to replace them now as there are three ways to replace them. The one piece ones need either the body lifted off the frame or the rocker panels cut to replace them. There was/is? a three piece set that can be fitted without the body lift or other body damage. It sounds like you have the background and ability to make your's a great car so just keep us in the loop and, as GS said - never to many pictures.
  16. There is a difference between blunt and concise. Gary was concise, blunt would be "Wrong forum, move it"!! Hopefully Mr. Morrison will come back and participate in the forum if he keeps his Avanti but information shared in a concise form shouldn't be considered an attack on anyone by anyone. It won't be a forum that will expand and prosper if everyone that posts is always watching their back to see if there comments are taken as an attack.
  17. Can't argue with success, nice.
  18. Craigslist https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/d/mesa-1964-studebaker-avanti-serial-r5590/6784622140.html Background http://www.studebaker-info.org/AVDB1/R5000/64R5590/64R5590xaoai184/64R5590xaoai184.html
  19. Nothing wrong with leaving it but it could be a source rattles. Here's the info on it if you need it. http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/lampman_moonroof.html
  20. Well said GS I'll add that after taking two Avanti's apart, there is a tremendous difference in build quality between my 74 and 83 vehicles. The 83 was assembled as you would expect a $30K vehicle in the 80's. Everything was well routed and clean, the parts fit well and were quality pieces in general. The 74, and I've said this many times on both forums, reminds me of a kit car assembled by a by folks with a limited concept of quality. And it's not because it went through several modifications after assembly because I purchased from the original owners son and his father had bought it directly from the factory in 74. As far as the paint issues, I'll bet the issues will just continue as it ages but let me make a suggestion. Find the best auto detailer in your area and ask their advice. The orange peel can be eliminated but get their opinion on the salvaging the other problems. If it's relatively minor, they can possibly do some magic. If it's adhesion issues, then the costs soar rapidly if you want to drive with a pristine paint job.
  21. I agree it's a nice car but it has a couple of negatives - 350 SBC in place of the Stude engine takes it's value away from the folks that like original. Secondly, clean up the engine compartment and reshoot it. You also need a couple of shots of the underside as rust is a major concern with these cars. As far as $30K, one couldn't reproduce it for that money but that generally doesn't matter with these cars. It might also be worth getting it detailed or spend a couple of hours spiffing it up inside and out. In the price range you are suggesting, shine and presentation are necessary. Now, I'll agree with Ed to a point. Put it on Ebay with a low starting bid and a reserve of $30K if that is what you want and see what happens. Forecasting prices on modified 63/64's is a crap shoot at best. But good luck it is a beautiful example of a car I admire greatly.
  22. Avanti83


    Interesting comments. When I rebuilt the front suspension on my 83 I added KYB shocks to all four corners. I did need to widen the bottom pin on the front shocks but overall I'm very happy with the ride quality and handling of the old girl. You'll generally need to make minor changes to the shocks unless you order directly from an Avanti supplier and you may even need to modify them. The ones you show sure look like overkill to me unless you are towing something. The parts interchange from the SDC showing shocks etc. - https://northstarstudebakers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/interchange.pdf
  23. Join the AOAI and the magazine is included in the membership. Order the calendar at the same time you subscribe. https://www.aoai.org/
  24. Good Idea, Did the same thing on my 2004R. Just switch it on when traveling on the highway. If they don't want to futz with the computer wiring, the plug is on the drivers side of the trans that needs the connection IIRC. The wiring diagram is easily available on the WWW.
  25. Stuart B said he found the unit under the exhaust manifold where they usually screwed into the head. That unit will come out the way I described, I can't speak to what it connects to but I usually use that location for my temp sender when I ashcan all the pollution equipment.
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