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Avanti83

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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Avanti83

    Parked Avanti!

    The bottom line is this 74 was delivered from the factory to the original owner with a console e-brake. I spoke with the original owner when I purchased it from his son and the op said it was purchased directly from Nate Altman new in 74. The ownership chain is unbroken so do with that data what you will.
  2. Avanti83

    Parked Avanti!

    Beg to differ, Not the best picture but notice the strange handle wrapped in plastic in the console of RQB-2123 1974 Avanti. 76 is not correct unless only an unauthorized one escaped two years earlier. When I pull it the emergency brake engages. Also the original ad from Ebay for the car. http://www.studebaker-info.org/AVDB2/AvantiRQB/74QB2123/74qb2123x0711.html showing the e-brake handle
  3. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-STUDEBAKER-AVANTI-4-26-62-HOLLYWOOD-LEWIS-MINKLE-12X18-INCH-PHOTO-POSTER/153419753353?hash=item23b887a789:g:SSoAAOSwTIlcjumy Neat
  4. Avanti83

    Parked Avanti!

    I'll guess 74 (2) because I own one with the console location. Can't miss by more than one year.
  5. I think that white disc is the cruise control disconnect. As far as the brakes, if you can get under it, look at all the connections and wheel cylinders for signs of fluid. One place folks don't look at often is the boot on the master cylinder. Any dampness anywhere could indicate an issue. If you have Dot3 fluid, it could be worth the time to flush the system as over time it can adsorb moisture. If Dot5, it could be worth bleeding the system as there is always the chance of a small air bubble in the system.
  6. Lew - Thanks for all you do to keep this site available. Bob
  7. You'll still need to install the portion of the mount that provides body/radiator support.
  8. I still think the best way is to still put it up in the air and see where the play is as it could be in any number of places including the steering box. Jack stands will work if a lift is not available. A little movement in several places adds up to a lot of steering movement. You'd need to get it up into the air if you were replacing just the bellcrank. Now to answer your question. If it's just some slop in the bellcrank I'm not sure you would feel much but the steering arm attaches to the bellcrank with a pinch bolt. If the pinch bolt is loose the you will feel play. It could be a lot. Nothing wrong with replacing it if you have a good one but check the manual as you will need to pull the grease zerk to remove it from the car. BTW, while you are under there, check the rest of the steering for play.
  9. Gary Is this the one. It was just relisted with a BIN on $8K. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Studebaker-Hawk-/323740206634?oid=323729741058 Bob
  10. A few thought on the other forum. Bob
  11. Complicated, not so much but I won't lose the 74 to a direct short if something gets cross wise underneath. I like the garden hose idea and personally used 1/2' PVC conduit for the same reason under my 54K.
  12. As long as you don't mind Chevy powered 74 shots, here you go. Because it's Chevy powered you'll probably want to run everything down the drivers side as the starter is on that side IIRC. The battery box is installed with a shut off that will have an outside handle when I'm finished and there's a 200 AMP marine fuse located in the power cable also. The wire go through the trunk to the inside of the frame and run down the entire length of the frame separated by about 1 1/2". Where ever the power (Red) cable come close to anything moving I added fuel line to cover the cable to reduce potential abrasion. When the cables came close to the starter, I ran the red cable directly to the hot terminal on the starter and the ground cable to the engine block. To help grounding I skinned the ground cable and used a metal clamp to secure it and provide a ground to the frame. Any place you see Zip Ties used, they were for original assembly. All were replaced with metal clamps eventually. This should give you some ideas.
  13. If authenticity isn't a factor you might consider moving the battery to the trunk and using your skills to just modify the inner fender to meet your needs. Trunk battery kits are pretty reasonable or just buy the box and appropriate sized cables. Just modifying or installing a different inner fender won't be enough because IIRC, the change to the smaller battery resulted in glass damage from the weight in that area so you will need to add appropriate reinforcement. 1963R2 also mentioned modifying the hood to accept the support on the other side. I did this modification when I added air struts to my 74 and it is straight forward. You just need a steel plate with two holes threaded 5/16" to accept the strut mount bolts and a pop rivet to hold it in place. It's placed into the hood structure by cutting a slot large enough to slide it in from the inside edge of hood structure. Just replace the piece you cutout and glass, finish and paint the small area. I can't find my pictures of the plate I made or the cut in the hood but this finished shot should provide some information.
  14. Possibly or it could be the wheels. Mustang wheels vary all over the map in Diameter and back spacing. That's why I used the 99-04 Bullitt ones. Here the numbers from my setup on the 74. Backspacing
  15. Thanks Ed Here's some comments on my installation in my 83. http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/SOB/sdc46421m.html Here's some thoughts on my 74. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?73694-Avanti-Aluminum-Radiator-W-elec-Fan-and-Shroud What you need is a generic 19 X 26 aluminum Chevy V8 radiator and add, any tabs you need to mount it. I either used tabs on the 83 I installed or had a local shop TIG on the mounts for my 74. Be sure to check the actual dimensions to be sure it fits but you should be able to find them many places. If you need a trans cooler you can find them with them or install a separate one like I did in my 83.
  16. Can't help with the rechroming shop but CE has new for about $3300. That might be in the rechroming ballpark. https://www.classicent.com/avanti/
  17. If all else fails and talking to Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors doesn't get results, I'd be inclined to measure the height and width of the windshield and then cover it with heavy paper and trace the outline. Then I'd head for the closes Pick and Pull and start looking at late 80's to early 90's cars. See what looks close and see if you can find a fit. I'd limit the search to windshields as the rest are tempered glass. It would be hard to believe Avanti Motors didn't use a standard windshield from a modern vehicle.
  18. Before you reinstall the wheel, be sure you have the same number of turns in each direction. Otherwise it's not centered no matter what it looks like. Aesthetics shouldn't outweigh correct steering geometry.
  19. I've dyed several sets of vinyl seats and other interior parts with SEM and Duplicolor vinyl spray dyes. Adhesion has not been a problem but mine were older vinyl. It's possible the newer vinyl may have some mold release or plasticizers on the surface so I would suggest that after they are scuffed, wipe them down with Prep-sol or another pre-paint solvent. Of course, test a small area before you attack the entire visor. My 74 seats were dirty enough, I used lacquer thinner to clean them prior to spraying. Worked very well.
  20. If you want to have your driveshaft shortened, look up your local 4X4 shops. They will either know who does a good job or do it themselves. Also take the opportunity to replace the u-joints when you do the shaft. Around here, shortening the shaft, which you will need runs $180 or so with new u-joints. Parts are not an issue with 4X4 shops as Dana/Spicer 44's are one of the more popular units. A bit of advice, ask the shop how they want you to measure the new length as there are a couple of ways. They will detail what they want for measurements.
  21. You should be able to find an adapter on Ebay for starters. https://www.ebay.com/bhp/york-to-sanden
  22. The frame is two sections, the upper c-shape usually called a hat and the bottom plate. The plate is 1/8" thick X 4" wide steel plate and readily available. The way I repaired mine that had several sections of the bottom plate rusted through but not much damage to the hat was to clean everything off the frame to metal and rust to evaluate the extent of the damage. Because the hat and bottom are welded together at the edge where they meet, I just cut across the plate and ground off the welds to remove the rusted pieces. Any minor damage to the hat section I repaired with 1/8 inch steel. I cleaned out the open areas of the frame and treated it with weld through primer before I welded the frame back together. Also before I welded the plates back I cleaned the frame in both directions inside as far as I could and used a kitchen brush to treat that area with POR-15. After welding the frame back together I treated the repaired sections inside with POR-15 as best I could. It will get a little messy cleaning and grinding but you'll have a solid frame in the end.
  23. When Avanti Motors mounted the cowcatcher, they cut the front of the frame off, removing the radiator and front body mounts. You need to cut the frame mount off of the cowcatcher and bolt it back on the frame to provide these mounts. Here's a post with my comments and pictures on removing the cowcatcher and cutting the mounts off it. You can repair the grill with 1/8" stainless steel wire as here. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?108265-1974-Avanti-Grill-Improvement or Buy a new one from our vendors
  24. First off, I'm not a qualified welder but I've done a fair amount of various car projects that require SS and SS to steel welds. I use my Century MIG welder with about an 80/20 gas mix and 308 SS wire. My welds are solid and penetrate well enough to give good strength. I like using 308 wire as it runs well and penetrates in both SS and steel/SS welds. A couple of thoughts on the frame. Is it just the bottom plate or into the hat section. I've repaired two frames, an 83 and 74 that was mostly bottom plate. There were a couple of sections of the hat that required required a couple of repairs that extended about an inch or so up into it. Repairing the bottom plate and frame sections including the rear cross member were much easier than replacing the entire frame. If the damage is limited to the bottom plate and a few lower sections of the hat portion you may want to consider repairing the existing frame. Good luck with your project.
  25. Your car, your choice but the TC bumpers would take a fair bit of modification of the body (or Bumper) to install. Talk to Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Michigan about parts availability.
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