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Avanti83

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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Studebaker International lists both manual and parts books.
  2. ( My other question is: Let's say I was building a Stude engine hoping for R3 power, and I wanted to modernize the timing, what would be the best way to go? ) Modify an electronic distributor to fit the R3 and pair up with a Holly, FAST or other EFI system that has a higher than 1 atm MAP sensor and let the EFI learn/control it's way to maximum performance. I know you can buy an electronic unit that will fit but I'd want the one that the EFI controls.
  3. Avanti83

    Avanti Window!

    Just to add to Brad's thoughts, I used the entire Nu-Relics power lift window system on my 74 Avanti with excellent success. Not inexpensive at $450 or so for the pair with switches and wiring but not much more than a total restoration of the old parts. Bought them from Bob Ziff.
  4. I suspect you know this because you have come this far but be sure that you have all the hinges and other parts, in good nick, that will effect fitment on the car and fitted prior to, hopefully prime, but most certainly paint as these bodies are pretty fragile toward nicks and scratches. I edged my doors/body openings with paint and rehung them prior to final spraying. the hood and trunk I assembled after painting. The hood was worry-some but I have enough overhead space and lifting capacity to set it in position alone. Please post pictures when you're done, Love to see pretty-pretty Avanti's
  5. My guess is the wire is to actuate the brake light and probably works by providing a ground if the slider is moved if one chamber in the cylinder is low on fluid. The light is also an indicator of the parking brake not being fully released according to the manual. When you pull the harness for the ECM you will find it is almost a stand alone harness. I don't remember what I did for the wire on the prop valve but I don't recall it being part of the ECM harness. I could be wrong as it's been a number of years. I could check but the 83 is in storage currently. I suspect that you are eliminating the ECM to get rid of the carb and dissy setup on the car. I replaced mine with a Holley FI setup and dissy and it runs well. Just remember you will need a different dissy if you replace the carb with a different one. Other than pulling a big arse snake out of the car, the job was pretty straight forward IIRC.
  6. Is the slop from worn holes/pins or just side to side movement. If the pins/holes are worn then new ones or larger pins. If it's side to side, try peening the rivets to tighten them up.
  7. Ken You and the Avanti have now come and now gone a long way. Congrats, Bob
  8. I haven't seen any follow up to the same query on the other forum. My offer of pictures et. al. still stands. sweetolbob
  9. Excellent point. I'm 6'3" and the mount location in mine let's me adjust the mirror to where I like it. One size certainly doesn't fit all in these applications. I know how I fit in an Avanti, particularly head room, so you are really pushing the limit.
  10. Your isn't OEM as it's glued to the window so get a decent night/day mirror and move it up toward the top. Mine in my 74 is 4" down from the bottom of the window stainless trim to the center of the mount. To remove yours, take the screw out of the mount to remove the mirror and then remove the mount from windshield. BE VERY VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE GLUED ON MOUNT AS YOU CAN DAMAGE THE WINDSHIELD. There are some Youtube videos on doing it. Am I shouting, YUP!!! it's important. I found the glue from the auto store did not do a good job of holding the mirror in my car no matter how much I cleaned so I used clear Gorilla Glue.
  11. I used a temporary spare for my 74 as in this post. As Ed said, it will leave room for the jack and other tire tools. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?111352-Avanti-Temporary-Spare
  12. Fuel and spark is where I'd start. If it runs well other than slow acceleration be sure you have the float bowl full and the boost reference to the fuel pump connected. Usually, I start with the distributor. Check to see if you have advance and basic timing. Use a timing light. If spark check out it's probably fuel delivery under load, weak pump - air getting into fuel lines or a restriction somewhere in the fuel lines or fuel tank. BTW, welcome!!!
  13. Absolutely, And welcome to the forum.
  14. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    Apparently RQB-2123 is an original console e-brake Avanti. From the original owner today.
  15. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    As I dig through my photos, I did find some that indicate a pair of holes directly above gas pedal, which I filled. I finally found the originals owners son and asked him to see if his dad can recall if it came originally with the console. Hopefully, he's still around as he wasn't in great health a couple of years back.
  16. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    I'd like to get to the bottom of this if possible. Here are a couple of shots of the firewall, I have many more, where did the dash mounted e-brake go through the firewall during these years.
  17. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    Skip I just went back through my paperwork that I received with RQB-2123 and the delivery date is 10/24/74 in South Bend, In. It looks like yours is the last. Why mine has the newer console will probably remain in doubt but it was returned to South Bend about a year after purchase to have the 400 truck motor replaced with a more car-like 350 which it had when I purchased. The console looks like an original install as there is no evidence of an under-dash e-brake being mounted. Probably never know but because mine now has the T-56 6-speed and your's is original, so the last one remains original. Bob
  18. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    Just found the same thing, First time I've seen that data during a search. Looks like Skip and I can discuss which is later, 2127 vs 2123 with the floor console e-brake. Interesting that 2136 has the old console. Our discussion started when I found out his didn't have the newer console and mine did. I know mine is factory as I bought it from the OP. Mine
  19. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    I spoke with Skip about this 3 months ago and at that time he said he had heard there was another on with a later number but he was still wondering if 27 wasn't the last as they were modified at the factory and not necessarily in the numerical order. I could argue that mine is the last one as it appears to be the only one with the later model console with the e-brake mounted behind the shifter. I'll submit the last one was not necessarily the latest number as they were custom built. I'd sure like to see a picture of the one you think is the last including door plate, clutch petal and shifter lever in a single shot.
  20. Avanti83

    Stick Avantis!

    RQB-2127 as per Skip Lackie IIRC
  21. Exactly what Jack said. Be sure they use fuel injection grade hose as it is resistant to all the things in gasoline that wan't there years ago. Even more importantly, be sure they replace the short flex section of line directly under the fuel tank. They will need to drain the tank but if it fails there's nothing stopping the entire contents of the fuel tank from dumping on the floor. It is connected directly to the bottom of the fuel tank.
  22. Hard to believe no one has registered a pre-80's car there before but you should be fine at the next level. Take a picture of your car and a small summary of the Avanti with you. I had a picture of my 83 which had no title as it was from Vermont and they don't issue them at that age. They did issue a document of sale, however. The gal at the local Michigan DMV loved the car and she was very cooperative in making sure it got titled here. BTW, the DMV had rules to cover these issues and she just looked it up.
  23. These should be Ed's comments, they are near the bottom of the post.
  24. Check the voltage from the solenoid to starter connection when someone turns the key. If you have voltage, which I think you will, tap the starter lightly with a small hammer or pipe to see if that helps. If that doesn't work, probably bad starter. If no voltage, either bad relay or no voltage to relay. Then check the voltage to the solenoid.
  25. Thanks Bruce, I'll run mine as it is and modify if necessary. Bob
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