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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Mcleod is still in business so I'd just contact them and see what that install needs. Haven't seen a B&B setup since I put an SBC in a 39 Ford 40 years back. Worked very well, though.
  2. Same as the SDC FORUM. Dana now Rostra Let me know if this doesn't work as I might have one if I look hard enough. http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php
  3. T-56 behind a 383 SBC. It just bolted up but as you have an automatic you'll need the Avanti/Lark pedals. For my T56 I used all GM parts including the master/slave setup from a Camaro. Clutch's, flywheels, etc can all be ordered from any supplier and you can set your price for them. The higher the performance the higher the cost. Just use the OEM bell housing but be careful some of the Camaro's tip the trans off center. I have a 5-speed OEM straight up housing bell setting in my polebarn depending on how close you are to Michigan. You might also consider a hydraulic throwout bearing.
  4. I've done a number of steel bodies but not an Avanti but I think I would use the firewall mounts and the rear as Ed suggested. Hopefully Brad Bez will find this and comment on how he does it. If not, you could try to PM or email him.
  5. Kerosene or other solvent needs to soften or dissolve the undercoating so it will take a fair bit. A total mess in my mind. I've used it to get the last of the undercoating when it's just a film and it kinda OK for that. Try the heat method with a less than sharp scraper and only use as much heat as necessary before you get all jiggy with solvents. Plastic might work but most are made from olefins that soften at fairly low temps.
  6. Agree with Jim again. I used a Flex-a-lite Syclone with a custom shroud but Jim's setup would be much easier to fab and install. I also used a Derale 16749 fan controller and added a manual override switch just-in-case.
  7. If Dan won't send a digital copy, You can have him send it to me, I'll scan it and email or text it to you digitally and then send the copy from Dan to you in the Netherlands. I'll send you my address and email if it's necessary. Bob
  8. Yup! I suspect you have now discovered why a couple of the best tools for old cars is a Volt-Ohm-Meter and a 12 volt probe. Even with a complete wiring diagram (if available) you will still need to generally start at either the fuse box or affected end and start back tracking. Avanti's are well known for corrosion and bad grounds causing issues. I would suspect your manual (if available) should list the fuses that feed certain parts. If not, the 12 v probe will make sure there is power to all the fuses whether on full time, or in run or start mode.
  9. I agree with Jim above. That's why I always bought the factory manuals when I purchased a "New" daily driver. They finally priced me out of the market but the local library usually had up to date Mitchell's Manuals that had what I needed. Pretty hard to get to them now however, and my guess is they will not be digitizing them and will probably, if they have not done it by now, be purging them. That leaves the link that Jim posted.
  10. This should do it. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels
  11. Probably Ford Fairlane rotors and S10 4X4 calipers. Personally, I'd go for newer Ford, Chrysler or aftermarket wheels as the 63/64 were a bit narrow and the newer ones will let you run bigger/better radial tires. I'm using 2000 or so Mustang Bullitt Aluminum wheels on my 74 with the Turner option and would not go back to 60's technology in wheels. You should be able to find new or used steel wheels if you prefer by looking for wheels that have the width and back spacing of the Crager's you are running. I opted for a much larger wheel for the stated reasons. YMMV- Your mileage may var
  12. I used Aluminum faced fatmat for sound and heat insulation inside the Avanti, DEI exhaust wrap on the head pipes and aluminum heat shields above the mufflers. You can see the heat shields above the mufflers and they are spaced away from the floor. I also put an aluminum shield under the 6-speed slave cylinder.
  13. I can't answer the question but if they will work, there is an Avanti II being parted out in the for sale section near the bottom if you need parts.
  14. The frame looks like an easy repair but as you have another one and the original will go to good use, good choice. Welcome to the forum and please keep us in the loop as you make progress. Nothing better than seeing and learning from the progress of other members on these vehicles. As you have the body off, it will make the "hog trough" repair straight forward and as easy as replacing them can get. Could you also post a shot or two of the Chevy pickup roadster in the future. I like all kinds of neat vehicles.
  15. If it has the earlier Avanti type radiator then there are plenty of Aluminum ones around that will fit. I used this one on my 83 and a different one on my 74. Both cool well and are less than $200. Speedway motors and Ebay can be good sources for inexpensive USA made ones. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/SOB/sdc46421m.html A word of caution as I was working with another member to put one in his 63 ( same radiator dimensions) and it (the radiator matching the part #) differed slightly in dimensions. So be sure you have the dimensions of the radiator so you can check fit. Thi
  16. I found mine on Ebay if you are looking for the temporary spare. Couldn't find one in the local wrecking yard. Be sure the tire is the correct size because different models use different tire sizes.
  17. Great link, thanks. I don't remember it from the magazine but it's bookmarked and I'm going to give it a good read or two. I didn't realize it had been shortened from the above shots but it looks spectacular modified this way.
  18. Hopefully that's your car. I must say that I would not have thought I'd like flared fenders but it looks right on this one. The hood vents fit the theme well and the side vents are a touch of styling genius. You don't happen to have a side view straight on, I love to see the profile with the fenders and bigger wheels.
  19. Thank you, the exhaust dumps in front of the rear axle. I'm going to fab a set of oval Boom Tubes that will exit in front of the rear wheels. The entire wheel and horn button are AMC (as you noted), I bought an entire column cheap at a swap meet to get the wheel, ring and spare parts for my original 74 tilt column. I've seen the designed upper grill and a couple others and they just don't fit my idea of an Avanti look. I don't even like the "vee" trim Loewy put on his personal car.
  20. Here are some thoughts from the SDC site. If you don't find your answer here, try the SDC forum. A few folks there can answer http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/V8EngineID.asp SDC = Studebaker Drivers Club It probably just me, but unless it's an SBC, I like to have a spare setup. I believe the filter location says it's a full flow engine so it's a good replacement for yours. Even a 259 will make enough power to get you down the road and it has spare parts you may be able to use or keep as backup.
  21. Since you asked, here's a couple of videos of my 74 after many years of reconstruction. Of course it started as a $3500 rough model but a ton of body/frame work, a 383 stroker motor, T56 six speed and a redone interior got it to here. Just one thought, please don't even consider an upper grill on it. I started this when I was about 70 and finished it (kinda) at 77, you can do it.
  22. Here's how I worked it out for my 74. You'll just need to allow for the 4.75" X 5 (120.65 mm)bolt pattern.Scroll down a few posts in the example and you'll find the tire size/diameter chart I used. You can then either find a rim narrow enough to fit and add an appropriate tire from the chart or Google the bolt pattern (inches and mm) and find what cars out there have an appropriate spare. Ebay and Google will be your friend here also.
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