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Avanti83

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Everything posted by Avanti83

  1. Wayne is correct that the build sheets for the II's are usually available from Nostalgic. Are you sure the "red" primer isn't faded red paint? As far as the rocker panels, it's body work just like any other metal repair. Just be aware that the metal is bonded to the fiberglass at the rocker panels so heat needs to be carefully applied. If you're happy with the repairs then that's what should matter.
  2. Glad it worked out. My guess is that movement is not good for the teeth on the cam so the replacement was timely. Time to deep six the old one. Just curious, what does a replacement go for these days if you don't mind me asking.
  3. Please keep us in the loop, I'm looking forward to an impressive build. Pictures are really welcomed. BTW - A belated WELCOME!! Avanti, Bob
  4. I suspect by now you realize you are the youngest contributor to this post. I just went out and measured my 74 because you finally gave me the approximate sections you wanted measured and as I'm two years your senior I wasn't about to spend several sessions crawling under it. My suggestion as I said above in my last post is to understand the knowledge, age and methodology of the forum and adjust your expectations to our capabilities. If you go back through the forum you will see that we will do about anything within reason to get/keep these cars on the road. Frame height front acros
  5. Ten hours, Whoo! He's some reading for you from the SDC site. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/6307-avanti-ride-height If you need more, my 74 sets on different tires and wheels but I can get you a picture of how it sets and the dimensions as it sets now including tire size. My guess is that while you are asking about stock ride height, in the end you are going to see what you like and go from there so mine might work as a start. Let me know. As an aside, while there may seem to be some wandering in the discussions, it's q
  6. Considering the miles you put on your Avanti and the fact you have pin pointed the sound to the distributor, it might be time to just replace it. These are usually under $75. We can speculate on other causes - exhaust leak, bad lifter, worn oil pump, internal sparking, worn distributor bearings, broken piston skirt, etc. but if it's the original it's probably worth replacing as if the problem is more serious you'll want a new one anyway. I hate just throwing parts at a problem so you could just pull it and see if something shows up but then you're already 1/2 way to replacing it anyw
  7. Not to speak for Ed, but the trunk rack and fuel door lock are straight forward. I removed the luggage rack and just filled the holes. You could either just weld a patch into the fuel door or find one without the lock. Using 1/8" sheet would allow you to just build a couple of wooden supports the curve you want in the roof, screw them underneath the existing roof and add the sheet. Glass and fill the patch, then remove the supports and fill the holes. If it seems a little weak, glass a second sheet underneath for strength. Otherwise you could take the earlier suggestion of buying a
  8. The moon roof panel can be removed/repaired without any issue of strength. There is a "roll bar" behind the door post for stiffness. The roof interior is essentially cardboard with a cover glued to the top. I replaced it in my 74 with insulation and short pile carpet. They are hot interiors so as you strip it apart plan on adding insulation to all the cabin surfaces. Welcome and keep asking there's a fair bit of knowledge here. I can't help with the corvette suspension question but I suspect their are folks that know.
  9. Mustang Bullitt Rims 17 X 8 https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels Look like this on my 74
  10. Just copy them from above into your browser to view or post the original on the site by clicking on other media in the lower right hand corner and into "insert image into URL"
  11. Used the tape to hold everything in IIRC. Nothing goes across the gap from exterior to interior but I think I recall bending the tape under the lip slightly to get more purchase. It will pull out after installation if it is only under a short distance.
  12. Looks like this right after installation. Yes on stainless and yes on rope. I believe I used 3/16" rope. Went in quickly with two helpers.
  13. Agree here. Be sure you mark the center of the window and window opening to be sure you start centered to start with. I also used clear packing tape to be sure the gasket and window stayed in the proper position. This really helped to keep the hump in position during the install as you can see it in this Pix. Don't loop the tape under the gasket but just to the front surface after you clean it with Alcohol. Thanks to Dan Booth for the tip as it just dropped right in like it was made to fit.
  14. I agree with the set screw idea. While the spinner may block the nuts it would be a simple task to just carry an Allen wrench and remove the spinner first.
  15. Avanti83

    engine belts

    If you kept the belts just take them to your local FLAPS and they can measure them. Otherwise, take a chunk of rope and wind it around where the belt goes and mark length. Measuring the top of the pulley will get you the width. If you want to figure it out yourself, do the same thing and go to Gates.com and look over their belt dimensions to find what you need. Here's a link. https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-transmission/v-belts/automotive-v-belts.html
  16. When I dove into the wiring on my 83 because the engine harness was in need of repair I found out there were really two harnesses. The normal engine harness and a computer harness that was almost completely separate, there were only a couple wires connecting between them IIRC. I mention this only because if you can find an earlier harness that doesn't have the computer portion, you may be able to use parts of the one that is missing if your 84 is much like my 83. I ripped out the computer portion and replaced the carb and dissy with an aftermarket EFI setup, truth be told.
  17. Very good suggestion. You might also try a set of these trim removal tools that are available at most auto related stores. https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O
  18. Just for grins, my 83 Listed 4 wire wheels for $1160. These are the ones that came with the car when I bought it. They are for sale.
  19. It's been long enough that I didn't remember but I've used this bender on up to 3/8" steel tubing. I couldn't find 3/8" but here is 5/16" bent just now. I know there is a big difference between 5/16 and 3/8 but this has worked for me in the past. The problem is I don't recall where I got nor does it have a brand name on it. It's probably from Amazon but I've had it for years and it works. Just clamp the fixed arm in the vice and slowly bend the tubing. If you don't need as sharp a bend you can use it like you are now using the vise, bend a little and move some. I believe the reason t
  20. Just read in the recent AOAI Magazine a short article by Dan Booth Nostalgic Motors about the filter being available from him. Here from his site. https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p48/Power_Brake_Booster_filter_and_hose%2C_New_N.O.S.html#/
  21. I'll go 57% as there a lot of frame to move around without the X-member. It really strengthens the center section..
  22. I'll say Willy's but you know I'll dispute 2263 is the first. Switched to, is probably a better term if none after were built with the under dash handle.
  23. Avanti83

    R3 (or bust!)

    True dat! I was going to machine a set from some black Delrin round stock I have but I traded for them with another Stude guy for some parts he needed and saved me the trouble. If someone sees them on the road they should have gotten out of the way faster.😉
  24. Avanti83

    R3 (or bust!)

    Delrin bushings, if anyone is interested.
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