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Posted

question: I am changing the motor mount to gain hood clearence. i bought the mounts from SI.

by changing then will it throw off the drive shaft angle. more than tolarance. when they went from r2 to r3 what did they do to gain hood clearence. I also bought the hood insulation, the old one had a hole in it where the supercharger bonnet is. The new doesnot, do you recomend i copy the old. B)

Posted

R3's used a thinner motor mounts to gain clearance. I don't think the the drive angle was changed enough to make a difference, at least I've never heard of that being an issue. They also were given stiffer springs by the factory.

Posted (edited)

My car had short mounts in it when I bought it. The left side exhaust manifold would hit the steering box with them installed. I agree that the driveshaft angle will not be affected

The hood pad that I bought had a hole in the center but I had to elongate it to make room for the hose. The R2's have a problem. Because of an adapter for my 700R4 trans linkage I can't even run a normal width gasket under the bonnet. I use a flat "O" ring from a GM trans to act as a gasket.

Ernie R2 R5388

question: I am changing the motor mount to gain hood clearence. i bought the mounts from SI.

by changing then will it throw off the drive shaft angle. more than tolarance. when they went from r2 to r3 what did they do to gain hood clearence. I also bought the hood insulation, the old one had a hole in it where the supercharger bonnet is. The new doesnot, do you recomend i copy the old. B)

Edited by ernier
Posted

thank you guys, i looked at the manual last night and found the section on drive shaft angle check and how to adjust. when i change the mounts i will check to spec. Stiffer springs on the front? interesting! the hood insulation is a pain just a rat nest, but getting all the old glue was even a bigger pain. im looking to gain more hood clearence because i added the heat intisapator under the carb to help stop the heat from boiling the carb in chicago traffic. it helped but i noticed some rubbing just a little. i will try the gasket in stead of a o ring to see i get a lil clearence too. was the al. intake manafold a aftermaket or and opt. B)

Posted

There are a few things I've done to my car that go in the 10 best file and close to the top is permanently blocking the exhaust crossover. I welded in some 3/16 plates but solid intake gaskets with a block off plate for a brand "X" will work. The car drives in 90+ like it was 65 degrees. You will solve your hood clearance problem without the mount changes which might create other issues, my exhaust manifold hitting the steering box for example.

And on the R2 cold weather driving doesn't suffer because the air coming from the blower is warmed. In fact, mine doesn't even have a choke! I removed the plate and I drive my car in all temperatures as ling as there is no snow or ice on the ground. A side benefit, the fiber replacemant intake gaskets seal better than the steel and you might notice a better idle and improved drivability because you sealed some intake vacuum leaks that the old steel gaskets allowed.

Ernie R2R5388

thank you guys, i looked at the manual last night and found the section on drive shaft angle check and how to adjust. when i change the mounts i will check to spec. Stiffer springs on the front? interesting! the hood insulation is a pain just a rat nest, but getting all the old glue was even a bigger pain. im looking to gain more hood clearence because i added the heat intisapator under the carb to help stop the heat from boiling the carb in chicago traffic. it helped but i noticed some rubbing just a little. i will try the gasket in stead of a o ring to see i get a lil clearence too. was the al. intake manafold a aftermaket or and opt. B)
Posted

I bought intake gastets from si, I did here about blocking the crossover runner. i though it was a great idea.

i even thought about a carbon diaoxide setup to cool the carb and the fuel suppy.

what about a supercharger oil cooler?

i know it not rockship building.

It's <_< just anti prade traffic imbarsement. ;)

Posted

The blocked crossovers are the simplest most effective way to stop the heat build up under the carb. The things you are suggesting are kind of like turning your home heat up to the max in the summer and then running your air conditioner to cool things down. Taking the intake off is a breeze on the Stude, no coolant or distributor issues to deal with. Also I would suggest getting new hold downs before you do it. The old oriiginals will crack and not snug the manifold down properly.

The air from the supercharger is warm because it's compressed, not so much because it picks up conducted heat. I thought about an intercooler but I was advised, properly, that they work only with much higher boosts and would hurt rather than help.

Check to make sure your heat riser is not closed, also. I would eliminate it completely myself.

Ernie R2 R5388

quote name='gadd zooks' date='Mar 22 2007, 10:14 AM' post='2556']

I bought intake gastets from si, I did here about blocking the crossover runner. i though it was a great idea.

i even thought about a carbon diaoxide setup to cool the carb and the fuel suppy.

what about a supercharger oil cooler?

i know it not rockship building.

It's <_< just anti prade traffic imbarsement. ;)

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