Performance shocks - shock absorbers

[drat]

I put dual valve camaro shocks on the front end of my 69 last year.... However, when I put the new lowering springs on I noticed bushing wear and cracking, I used the welding washers method, and must of got them too hot.

My problem was I got a divorce and lost the house. In moving my garage I have either misplaced or lost the stock pins, and I now want to do adjustable shocks and don't want to weld on them.

Lil help?

Any ideas... I don't want to but stock Gabriel's just for the pins...

[CaffeineRacer]

So not sure if this will help you, but what I did when I installed my bilsteins (which were made for an 81 camaro) was to buy new pins (I believe these are them http://www.4wheelparts.com/Rear-Shock-Absorber-Cross-Pin.aspx?t_pn=W%2FI98). Off road type shops carry these types of things. They are a lot more heavy duty than what's needed and require a small bit of grinding to get the holes wide enough to fit, but was really not a big deal. Then I bought some replacement bushings from summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSN-E4-B46-248B)

I was able to push the bushings in with my hands and a little soap and water. Then for the pin I used a puller to push the pin in with a little wd40.

[drat]

Great info! I was thinking about blistens for my next shock as well. Thanks!

[Cowboy91]

drat. I found KYB model KG5570 to be an excellent fit on my '70. They are from 1989-1996 Corvette. The lower mount is an E3 measurement, which is what the lower "holes" are on mine. Rock Auto has them for about $32 each. Hope this helps.

[CaffeineRacer]

These are the bilstein part numbers for the shocks. Front 24-011044 and rear 24-001564.

[drat]

I'm thinking about q1a adjustable shocks. I'm setting my RQA up to really handle. I lowered it and the double valve Gabriel's with the new Eaton lowering springs really make it handle great. But I'd like to have more adjustability.

Next up 17x8 coy 67s up front with 245 40 17 and 18x9 out back with 275 40 18s which in conjunction with the q1as should make a world of difference

[drat]

Thanks for the part numbers, but after thinking about it, I'm thinking about q1a adjustable shocks. I'm setting my RQA up to really handle. I lowered it and the double valve Gabriel's with the new Eaton lowering springs really make it handle great. But I'd like to have more adjustability.

Next up 17x8 coy 67s up front with 245 40 17 and 18x9 out back with 275 40 18s which in conjunction with the q1as should make a world of difference

[CaffeineRacer]

Just watch out with the clearance in the wheel wells with those wider wheels and the car being lowered. How much did you lower the car? Does Eaton just cut coils out of their standard avanti springs or do they actually make different springs with a stiffer spring rate?

[drat]

Eaton made them, and I'm super impressed. After looking at it today. The car is 2 inches lower, and rides great. Definitely the pro touring look and feel which I personally like, but it's not too harsh of a ride.

I had a problem today with one of the shocks. One of my welds broke where I welded the washers on the dual valve camaro Gaberils broke, and put pressure mother other nut and the shock popped out the bottom.

I'll be ordering new shocks, those shock pins and bushings tomorrow. Glad I was already thinking of replacing them and you guys helped.

[drat]

As far as clearance issues, the fenders are no problem, unless maybe if I took a driveway cornering at high speed, like 60. I doubt they will ever rub the wheel wells. And they haven't in 2 weeks of running errands and going around town.

Underneath the car is another issue. The mid pipes could possibly scrape if I go over a speed bump super fast. And the tie rod grease zerk (zerq?) fittings stick out below the cross member where the bell crank pin and nut are, so it's not advised to hit huge dips or speed bumps at speed.

It's no different than my modern sports car experiences in a lotus Exige and Evora S. After driving around a couple weeks with it dropped , you slow down for speed bumps and driveways.... Not to a crawl, but like 15mph, and don't pull up all the way till your tires hit the curb in parking lots or you'll bump the crossmember before hitting the tires. No biggy. And the trade off is a killer stance, way better cornering and handling, and quicker, more responsive steering.

[drat]

Got my blistens today. This weekend they go in!

[CaffeineRacer]

Very exciting. LMK if you have any questions for modifying them to fit the avanti shock mounts. Its quite straight forward though.

[drat]

Got delayed till this weekend. My hand is broke and my helper couldn't make it.

We are going to install inserts in the control arms as the old bolts are mangled when the old shock broke.

Yes I have a couple questions.. Thanks!

I need to get a puller i suppose to get the pins in, What type?

How did you get the old bushings out? Cut them? Press them?

And lastly, you said some grinding was needed? What did you need to grind?

I want to pick up any tools or bits I need that I don't have for this weekend.

[CaffeineRacer]

Drat,

Go to autozone and get both their small and larger puller. I can't remember which one I used, but I know I used one of them. What I used them for was actually to push the old bushing out. The process for this was I cut one of the ears off of the little figure 8 type mount in there so I could get a good perch on it with with screw on the puller then just screwed the puller down until the old bishong came out.

To get the new pin and bushing in I actually just used my hands (no I am not a person of superhuman strength). Some soapy water helps with the part and your palm will probably hurt afterwards. I put the bushing in first and then the pin. I think the get the pin in all the way I whacked it on the counter a few times to help.

The part that I had to ground was the holes in the pins. They are ever so slightly too close together such that the bolts would have to go in at an angle to pass through both the new shock pins and the control arm mounting holes. I just used a dremel with a carbide bit and ground the holes out so they extended closer to the ends of the pin. Take some measurements on the control arm once the old shocks are out then you'll know how much farther out the holes on the new pins need to be.

I'll keep an eye on this thread in case you have anymore questions.

[CaffeineRacer]

Oh one other thing. For the rear shocks you have to transfer the mounting tube that was in the upper bushing into the new shock upper bushing. Same deal though you can push them through by a combination of soapy water, hands, and counter hitting.

What I described above in my previous post about the pins and the grinding is just for the lower mounts on the front shocks.

[drat]

thanks!

ill let ya know how it goes.

[Avanti83]

I use a 12 ton press but you can do the same thing with a vise. I put the rubber in first and then press in the tube. A proper sized socket works well to push with.

The soap recommendation works well and if you need clearance on the backside to let the bushing/insert clear just use a socket of the appropriate size.

[drat]

I used a puller, worked great! I went with poly bushings, and inserts in the A arm. Didnt need to open up the cross shaft at all. The bilstens and lowered springs give a great ride, corners amazing. No body roll and feels like its on rails up front.

Havent done the rear yet. But its on the list...

Next up is msd billet distributor, 6 al, and coil!

[CaffeineRacer]

Drat, that's great to hear. Glad things went smoothly and now you're enjoying it. You've really been working hard on this car. Hopefully you're taking some pictures along the way of the transformation.

Have you put in the thicker sway bars?

[drat]

Been taking pics here and there. I'm not really breaking new ground, so nothing really to show.

I haven't put bigger sway bars. But that's on the list too!