brake pedal after rebuild

[Endl98]

ok so on my 63 I had to rebuild all the hydraulics. the master, all 4 calipers, the cylinders. I put on new pads and shoes, return springs and anti rattle clips. new hose in the rear and a few new lines. my problem is I cant get a brake pedal. I know the problem exists up front. if I clamp off the brake hoses. the brake pedal is rock solid. if I remove the clamp off the rear . the brake pedal drops ever so slightly.if I remove the front clamp, bam down it goes, if I remove the other front , its on the floor. so I re-bleed like crazy, I checked out, to make sure the pistons are not sticking. ive tried power bleeding . I just cant get a good pedal.

so im here hoping that someone will have had a similar problem and has a solution.

im at a point where a turner brake kit looks good.

eric

Edited February 24, 2014 by Endl98

[1963r2]

Eric.

I assume you had the front calipers off. Just make sure you haven't put them back on upside down therefore they are not bleeding fully.

Make sure the bleeder is at the top of the caliper so you can get a full bleed of the system.

Just a thought.

pb

Edited February 25, 2014 by 1963r2

[Endl98]

I took them off and sandblasted them cleaned them up and re assembled them. the inner and outer look the same. I realize there is a check ball on the bleeder. i know i have moved the calipers around, someone had ground down the bendix off them on the outers. i had installed them with bendix facing out now. so the inners are on the outers. but they appear to be the same caliper. i read about the shims. i will have to go back and check that,

[1963r2]

I think the calipers can be moved around. Just check the routing of the pipework and make sure the bleeder is at the top for a full bleed.

Edited February 25, 2014 by 1963r2

[Charlie Kile]

1963r2 is exactly right. the routing of the lines is critical.

My E-Type uses the exact same set up except on all four wheels.

On each wheel, the flex hose must go to the bottom of the inside wheel cylinder, the steel line must go from the top of the inside cylinder to the bottom of the outside cylinder, and the bleeder to the top of the outside cylinder.

If not connected this manner you'll get them bled.

Charlie RQB3921

[Endl98]

The routine of the hoses and lines are correct. Im quite baffled with this. I have to get back on it and check to make sure the calipers and pads are not cocking. .

[Charlie Kile]

If the cylinder is improperly assembled to the brake assembly the brake puck can hit the assembly before reaching the disc.

However if that were the case you would have a solid pedal and no brakes!

Have you tried reverse bleeding them like on an airplane. I/E pumping fluid in at the cylinders ?

Charlie RQB3921

[Endl98]

I fixed it. I finally had a chance to put it on a lift at night and go over the entire system, bleed adjusted and shimmed the calipers. I clamped off the brake hoses again and noticed that the pedal did not set until about 1 inch of movement, it had to much free play, ended up being a misadjusted master cylinder pushrod. I rebuilt the master and I guess the new cylinder cup was way deeper. turned it out over a 1/4 of a inch. now its very firm. stops great. I am happy.

[bigdaddy]

I'm too late to help, but I had exactly the same problem with a rebuilt master cylinder. Just didn't seem like it had enough pressure to bleed well. After about 3 days of trial and error, I pulled the master cylinder and compared with the old one. Looked identical, but when I took a depth mic. and checked the pusher cup depth, yep it's .250" deeper. So, like you, I adjusted the linkage out .250". Worked great.