Kennie B. Posted November 10, 2011 Report Posted November 10, 2011 Well, I finally got to drive an Avanti. It's an `85 and is listed on Craigslist. Seller claims only 55k mi and the interior seems to validate the claim. The car is a decent 5-10 footer but then you realize that the repaint was poorly masked and a bit of orange peel. Most of the overspray can be cleaned up and it would not be embaressing to be seen in. The interior is Magnolia white and very nice, decent dash. The car runs good and stops straight. There are a few downsides. For starters, the hog troughs don't look like the ones I have seen on a couple of Studebakers that I knew were original and sound. There are rather large rivets along the rocker panel at the bottom and several large drainholes. Most concerning is that they sound like they are plastic and flex when pushed on. The next problem was that the electric trunk lock fails to open. I can hear the solonoid getting power but it doesn't unlatch. There isn't the hatch to get to the trunk so this is a problem. Next, the steering feels a little odd. Mind you, this is the first Avanti I've driven but I have driven a lot of cars with whole lot more miles on their recirculating ball steering boxes and kingpin/trunnion front suspension (mainly 60's & 70's Benzes). What is weird is that while a little slop is a given, most cars will slowly try to wander down the crown of the road to the gutter when your grip on the wheel relaxes or slowly give you some pressure as the car wants to go right and you resist. This one seems as if there is some bind or drag keeping the steering in the near straight position. When coming out of a turn the car does try to straighten out but not with a lot of enthusiasm but on the straight I was literally herding the car on center. Is this normal? I'm sure this is a big shock, the a/c needs a recharge. Also, the right window doesn't roll down. Supposedly the switch. In the past, the goal was to find a RGA or early RQB. When I asked for advise, there was a broad opinion of what is ideal and I gave it a great more thought. For where I'm at now, the later RQB might actually serve better as my middle son is showing an interest in vintage cars and this might start something. He's seen other Avantis and does seem to see the WOW factor as a draw. He plays sax in a jazz band, go figure...who needs a drummer for marching? For those who are interested, here is the dealer's website; http://www.autohausm...les.htm#avanti1 and the craigslist post http://inlandempire....2665126070.html The usual effort to move the stock came about, "While the advertised price on the window is 12k, we really would like to move it out this month, if you take it as is, we take a couple hundred off the craigslist price of 9995.00...etc. So, any thought, warnings... Thanks, Ken
Project Avanti Posted November 10, 2011 Report Posted November 10, 2011 Well, I finally got to drive an Avanti. It's an `85 and is listed on Craigslist. Seller claims only 55k mi and the interior seems to validate the claim. The car is a decent 5-10 footer but then you realize that the repaint was poorly masked and a bit of orange peel. Most of the overspray can be cleaned up and it would not be embaressing to be seen in. The interior is Magnolia white and very nice, decent dash. The car runs good and stops straight. There are a few downsides. For starters, the hog troughs don't look like the ones I have seen on a couple of Studebakers that I knew were original and sound. There are rather large rivets along the rocker panel at the bottom and several large drainholes. Most concerning is that they sound like they are plastic and flex when pushed on. The next problem was that the electric trunk lock fails to open. I can hear the solonoid getting power but it doesn't unlatch. There isn't the hatch to get to the trunk so this is a problem. Next, the steering feels a little odd. Mind you, this is the first Avanti I've driven but I have driven a lot of cars with whole lot more miles on their recirculating ball steering boxes and kingpin/trunnion front suspension (mainly 60's & 70's Benzes). What is weird is that while a little slop is a given, most cars will slowly try to wander down the crown of the road to the gutter when your grip on the wheel relaxes or slowly give you some pressure as the car wants to go right and you resist. This one seems as if there is some bind or drag keeping the steering in the near straight position. When coming out of a turn the car does try to straighten out but not with a lot of enthusiasm but on the straight I was literally herding the car on center. Is this normal? I'm sure this is a big shock, the a/c needs a recharge. Also, the right window doesn't roll down. Supposedly the switch. In the past, the goal was to find a RGA or early RQB. When I asked for advise, there was a broad opinion of what is ideal and I gave it a great more thought. For where I'm at now, the later RQB might actually serve better as my middle son is showing an interest in vintage cars and this might start something. He's seen other Avantis and does seem to see the WOW factor as a draw. He plays sax in a jazz band, go figure...who needs a drummer for marching? For those who are interested, here is the dealer's website; http://www.autohausm...les.htm#avanti1 and the craigslist post http://inlandempire....2665126070.html The usual effort to move the stock came about, "While the advertised price on the window is 12k, we really would like to move it out this month, if you take it as is, we take a couple hundred off the craigslist price of 9995.00...etc. So, any thought, warnings... Thanks, Ken
Project Avanti Posted November 10, 2011 Report Posted November 10, 2011 Hi Ken, Starting at the back of the car, try having someone press down on the deck lid while you activate the release, if it opens might just be an adjustment issue. Take a magnet with you next time you look at the car, should stick to the hog troughs although they sound like aftermarket. CHECK the FIT on the doors, and how well they CLOSE. The steering is not right and could be anything from a dry steering box to alignment to frame or other damage. Good Luck and hope Ernie or gunslinger checks in, two people who know much more about the later models than I. Good Luck
Gunslinger Posted November 10, 2011 Report Posted November 10, 2011 It sounds like the hog troughs are replacements...the Classic Enterprises replacement troughs are multi-piece and have rivets...and they could also be pieced together by someone simply trying to repair them without a full replacement. There's no way of knowing without someone really familiar with the giving it an inspection. Also, I guess it's possible there were originally installed that way...at that time Avanti Motors was making many changes and there were many problems facing the company. The drain holes could either be factory or from someone later. I'm guessing they were done later. A problem cars with sun roofs had was the drains for them ran right into the hog troughs and supposedly with no drain holes...water sitting in the hogs was a recipe for rust. The evidence so far from your description is something like that happened to this car and resulted in the troughs being replaced and the drain holes added. As far as the paint goes, that car was built about the time Avanti was having all its paint issues so it's probably a repaint. The overspray and orange peel doesn't sound like the quality that one would expect from an original spray. I believe Avanti Motors painted the bodies before being dropped on a frame...there wouldn't be overspray in that case. As already mentioned...check the door fit. It's not at all uncommon for the doors to sag...particularly the drivers door since it gets used the most. Sagging doors are repairable and not too bad a repair depending on how bad the sag is. The passenger door window...could be the switch. That could be determined for sure with a test light. Also...look at the voltage or amp gauge (depending on what your car is equipped with). With the engine off and the ignition switch in the on position, try and run the window. If the gauge takes a big drop in voltage or pulling a high amp reading, it's likely the window motor and not the switch. If you see little to no change in the gauge reading, it's probably the switch as the power is going anywhere. That's not a definitive test but gives an idea where to look. Trunk lock...again, as already said...it's probably out of adjustment. Look and see if it has the hole in the backside of the lock that a slotted screwdriver can be inserted into to open it manually. If it does, with the trunk lid open you should be able to close the latch manually then see if the electric solenoid is trying to open it. If it doesn't you can still open it with a screwdriver then make whatever adjustments needed. Calling Jon Myer or Dan Booth at Nostalgic for accurate advice on that. I don't know if Avanti Motors was still using the same trunk latch by that time. Once original parts began running out Avanti was adapting other maker's parts and no one really knows for sure the sources on many. For the steering...I'd call Jon Myer or Dan Booth again. In the late '70s Avanti changed to a different steering box...supposedly adapted from a forklift. Basically...if the frame and hog troughs are solid, everything else is pretty much manageable. Point out the flaws as you see them and what will be necessary to repair them and get the dealer to reduce the asking price even more. Avantis are unfortunately not an easy sell to the vast majority of the public...use that to your advantage. The car can well sit on the dealer's lot for a long time before another serious buyer comes along. He won't want to lose a sale.
Kennie B. Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Posted November 11, 2011 Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought to look at the gauges when cycling the window switch but now you mentioned it, I know what you are speaking of. If no motion on the gauge, likely no energy flowing at all, a deep swing, bound up drive system or major short, slight dip when window is operating normal. If I take a second look, I'll definately try this trick. Now that I think of it, the electric door locks weren't co-operating either. I did try pushing down on trunk lid while Paul (the salesman) cycled the switch, perhaps I wasn't agressive enough. Unfortunately there isn't any hatch in the hatshelf to reach through to the latch with a screwdriver. I did notice a slight sag on the driver's door when openning it but not the passenger's door. The door closed very easily, no need for a strong pull. Now would be the perfect time to attend to the hinges regarding adjustment. I have to admit, the car really did have a stout, vault like feel, we drove over railroad tracks and the car was just as comfortable as my old 6.9 but not nearly as willow-y feeling. There is a real cocoon feel to sitting inside, even with that near white upohlstery. Those Recarro seats aren't too shabby either! I had forgotten to mention that the car had been painted 10 years ago. I bet between that era having paint durability problems and (my guess) hog trough isssues that both were done at one time. The car does have a sun roof so there would be reason, also the car was originally from the Carolinas and brought out to So Cal about (if my feable memory serves) about 6 years ago. Supposedly the current (and 2nd) owner is a minority share holder in Autohaus Motors who is brokering the car. One advantage this dealer has is they have a workshop with lifts and they offered to schedule a slot of time to put the car up so I could get a close look with a drop light. Maybe I being a CASO in training but I'm thinking an opening offer of 7500 with a target of 8500 might be reasonable... Ken
J Boyle Posted November 11, 2011 Report Posted November 11, 2011 About the trunk latch...another thing to look at. I had to replace my trunk release cable but at the same time I cleaned the latch which was covered with old grease and trunk carpet fibers/dust/gunk.
Project Avanti Posted November 14, 2011 Report Posted November 14, 2011 Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought to look at the gauges when cycling the window switch but now you mentioned it, I know what you are speaking of. If no motion on the gauge, likely no energy flowing at all, a deep swing, bound up drive system or major short, slight dip when window is operating normal. If I take a second look, I'll definately try this trick. Now that I think of it, the electric door locks weren't co-operating either. I did try pushing down on trunk lid while Paul (the salesman) cycled the switch, perhaps I wasn't agressive enough. Unfortunately there isn't any hatch in the hatshelf to reach through to the latch with a screwdriver. I did notice a slight sag on the driver's door when openning it but not the passenger's door. The door closed very easily, no need for a strong pull. Now would be the perfect time to attend to the hinges regarding adjustment. I have to admit, the car really did have a stout, vault like feel, we drove over railroad tracks and the car was just as comfortable as my old 6.9 but not nearly as willow-y feeling. There is a real cocoon feel to sitting inside, even with that near white upohlstery. Those Recarro seats aren't too shabby either! I had forgotten to mention that the car had been painted 10 years ago. I bet between that era having paint durability problems and (my guess) hog trough isssues that both were done at one time. The car does have a sun roof so there would be reason, also the car was originally from the Carolinas and brought out to So Cal about (if my feable memory serves) about 6 years ago. Supposedly the current (and 2nd) owner is a minority share holder in Autohaus Motors who is brokering the car. One advantage this dealer has is they have a workshop with lifts and they offered to schedule a slot of time to put the car up so I could get a close look with a drop light. Maybe I being a CASO in training but I'm thinking an opening offer of 7500 with a target of 8500 might be reasonable... Ken Sounds like you are talking yourself into making the deal. Your numbers are good, you can always raise your offer. Do NOT overlook the steering problem. Take the car to a good front end shop. all the other issues are low dollar fixes. Depending on whats wrong, the front end could cost $1K or more, not a good thing to find out when the car is yours.
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