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Posts posted by avantifred

  1. The job is reletively straight foward. It's all done under the dash on the passengers side of course.. There is enough room to work under there unless your a really big guy !

    Insure that the molded hoses are in good shape. If you need to replace them, take care to make sure you don't kink the new hoses as the formed bends were not positioned as well as the originals were!

    At least on the ones that I bought ! .

    When you take the core to a radiator repair shop...tell him NOT to paint the core and get a can of the special radiaor paint from "Eastwood Products",(or equivolent)

    It will not insulate the core like the radiator repair shops paint will !

  2. I'm sure we've all found out that a 205 radial will NOT fit in the well...with air in it anyway! I have a new 6.50 x 15 bias ply on the Stude wheel in the well now. As far as the jack handle (not lug wrench) stowage is concerned I have been unable to get it in the well no matter what so.......

    I went to a junk yard and got a MUSTANG jack from a 1994-2004 car. This jack has a folding handle attached and lifts the beloved Avanti right up and the floor is flat and no loose handle to damage the trunk or take up space.

  3. rolleyes.gifHey Avantiacs... The Avanti was released to the Studebaker shareholders and to the New York Auto Show today......that is 50 years ago today. I was awaiting the arrival of my senior drivers license in New York that day. So....my friends and I rode our bicycles to the Merrick, Long Island dealership. I loved the car, but the price !! All I could say was,"$5,000 and the white wall tires are extra?!"

    Every time I look at my '64 R2......I remember that day, 50 years ago today.....

  4. A while back I put in a note "woodgrain steering wheel restoration" . If you search under "wheel" you'll see it. A firm named "Willy's" in Arvonia, VA did the repair....it's MAGNIFICENT. Call Steve at 804-380-8349 or Ian at 804-370-5139....the cost was VERY reasonable, in fact downright cheap !!

    GOOD LUCK - Avanti Fred

  5. Pulled motor and transmission out of my 63 4 speed, found back light switch control, but can not find any sign of a neurtal safety start switch. I assume their is such a switch but can not find it or any indication of it in the car or in the manual. Did find two connectors in area of the transmisison, one is for the back up light and the other may be to a missing safety switch, but again can not find any reference to it in the manual. Car had not been run since 1977 and has had atleast two motor changes before that. Assume it is not supposed to start in gear, but how is that prevented?

    YOU had to make sure the car was in neutral !!

    Being as old as i am and having purchased a new (stick shift) car every year back then......that had a "neutral saftey switch" was my new '69 Camaro ( which I quickly removed) So I'm sure that the Avanti didn't have one on any of its standard trans cars !

    Please correct me if I'm wrong !

  6. It's hot where I live but my Avanti does not suffer from vapor-lock like your car obviously does. I have a fix....BUT you have to promise NOT to laugh when I tell you the fix. I'm old, a lot older than my '64 but here goes: go into your wife's laundry room and grab a handfull of the clothes pins with the springs on them. They MUST be wooden. Next open the Avanti's hood and clip them onto the fuel line running to the carburetor. You should clip them before & after the in-line fuel filter. Put them on about every 2 inches or so......well. that's it. Give it a try, it SHOULD work.


  7. I just got :rolleyes: back from picking up my newly restored 1964 woodgrained steering wheel. I AM VERY PLEASED. If anyone out there in Avantiland is interested in getting the job done correctly (beautifully) and at a reasonable cost, please email me at

    frmeiners@embarqmail.com and I'll supply you all the info you need!

  8. Hi all,

    i recently removed my surge tank to restore it, and discovered the stud to secure it to a "support strap" (workshop manual reference).

    can someone describe this missing strap, provide a picture, and where the other end is secured?

    also, looking for a shop that can smooth the top of the tank shell (now disassembled) before i put it back together. any ideas?



    A good "old fashioned" radiator repair shop can do the job....OR call "Cap-a-Radiator" in Farmingdale, NY

  9. Hi everyone. I'm wondering why my tach works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. The wires are not loose, could it be it's on its way out or does it either work or doesn't?

    Also my reverse is not working. Is there something I missed putting it back together. The linkgage is nice and tight and it works in drive?

    Thank you


    the ultimate fix will cost over $300 BUT you'll get rid of the sending unit giving you a little more under dash room. I sent my tach to D&M Restorations in Greenville SC.

    What a gret job & always there to answer any questions over the phone. All updated components are ALL inside your original tach. They can re-chrome & even silkscreen a new face on the tach. Luckily old R5255 didn'd need that added work. Good Luck !

  10. Hello All

    I am looking for a Studebaker/Avanti wheel to use for my spare.

    Before I do a yard crawl for a suitable wheel I thought I ask here to

    see if any of you all had a wheel you'd care to part with[sell]. Let

    me know if can help out. I'd surely apprieciate it. RD Maxon

    RD - Just make sure you do NOT try to put a radial tire in the spare tire well in the trunk...it will NOT fit. I had to buy a 670x15 bias ply. I used a late model Mustang jack, from a salvage yard, so that I didn't have to allow the original jack crank handle to float arround loose in the trunk. The Mustang jack & handle are attached.

  11. DISCONNECT the battery. You will need to remove the passenger side panel (carpeted) of the console to help with the removal. Remove the bolt holding the radio to the "Z" bar and the antenna lead and the connector for the speaker and power. Pull the knobs off and remove the hex nuts from the control bushings. You should now be able to remove the radio by working it out through the open side of the console.


    Thanks for the reply Bob, I'll try it as soon as my back recovers from todays under dash work on the heater core installation with all new hoses & gaskets !

    Thanks again & Happy new year,


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