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avantifred

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Posts posted by avantifred

  1. I had the same one seeping on my Avanti #5255 ....As long as the installer can get a decent hammer blow from underneath the car you're OK...Use a sealer too, you needn't put it in dry ! GOOD LUCK>

  2. Yes I have, on the drivers side. I had to replace the coil spring inside the crank handle - a terrible job. If you only need to replace the three (3) rollers inside the track.........don't even think of it without the factory service book. It will take some time BUT will be worth it in the end. Good luck !

  3. I purchased the entire system from "Silvertone" back in '08. I have nothing but praise for them (him). The quality is exceptional & was a perfect fit too !

    I bought the "medium tone" :) & the Studebaker 289 makes a lovely authoritative tone. He'll be at the York, PA meet next week.as always. My car vin #5255 has the original fan & de-clutch mechanism and is never noisy !!

    Avanti Fred

  4. The big question is ...do you prefer round or square headlamps??

    If you prefer the squares then you will be getting the benefits of MOST of Studebaker's updates on these later models , that is after serial number #4892.

    It's your choice!! Supercharged or NOT. If you're looking for an air-conditioned car you can't have a supercharged engine !

    Once you make the choice .....REMEMBER THIS .There's nothing more expensive than a CHEAP Avanti ......

    GOOD HUNTING .....HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR to y'all "still moving forward"

    Avanti Fred

  5. aluminized protects very well but can show a little over restoration for a driver as it has a fairly shinny finish. I did it 35 years ago on a 1926 classic when there were no other options other than porcelainizing. Porcelainizing went away after WWII except for Jaguar in the 70's. I have had great experience with "Thermal-Tek" on Pontross Rd. in Hopewell ,VA...owners name s "Andy" This OEM looking finish will take 1400* F...........you'll be very pleased...HAPPY THANKSGIVING

  6. Good morning 64bird- I just looked at my mostly original 64 R2 vin 5255. The "small" tube you're referring to is 3/4" in Dia. A rubber hose will attach to it & go mostly straight down to the "road draft tube". (The road draft tube is made of steel) which takes oil fumes from the crankcase to the air filter. It should have a spring type hose clamp at each end. Another line also comes to the "road draft tube" from the carburetor's PCV valve which is a much smaller diameter.............I'm sure Jon Meyers, of Meyers Studebaker, has this tube & clamps. Any questions - please reply!

    Fred

  7. Hey Eric, Welcome to the "original' Avanti world. Like all the other replies you've received, these vendors have "all" the parts & you'll receive them in the mail before the Chevy boys can get their parts. You mentioned that your dad got his Avanti from a dealer in Valley Stream. Are you sure it was there and not a dealer on Sunrise Hwy in Merrick?? I was 17 years old then & did not have my drivers license yet, a bunch of us motor heads rode our bikes to the dealer in Merrick to see the new Avanti. When the sales man told us that the car would cost over $5,000.....the bubble broke ! it was back to dreaming about the "split-window Vette" (it was"only"$3200) which I never got either. BUT, 45 years latter my '64 R2 (#5255) finally arrived in my driveway. Oh, by-the-way, the Studebaker dealer on Sunrise Hwy in Merrick has bee selling ceramic tiles ever since then !..........WELCOME & GOOD LUCK

    Fred

  8. I just got out from under the car ....so here goes! the Avanti bumpers have all the "nuts" which aren't nuts at all but threaded (tapped) holes on plates welded onto the inside of the bumpers themselves. While laying under the car inside the fenders find the bolt head that aligns with the welded plate inside the bumper. This bolt will be thru a bumper support bracket. Under the bolts head will be a flat washer. The bolt will protrude thru the bumper support bracket then thru the plastic body & then thru the rubber block on the outside of the car which will be resting up against the welded plate inside the bumper. Do not look at the outside contour of the body of the car BUT crawl under the fender & look. It's a tough crawl on your back but you'll find those 4 illusive bolts !!

  9. Last September while I was at Carlisle, PA looking for Avanti stuff .well, guess what - nothing.... BUT while roaming around I found an old (Toppings) model of the Fairchild C-119. I know it's not a Packet C-82 BUT for $4 I got it & hung it up over my beloved Avanti & it looks kinda cool. I know it's a little crazy BUT it a lot cheaper than making a full length movie , don't 'ya think, and the star is still the AVANTI !! By the way, the issue you are looking for is the Avanti magazine issue #144 fall/winter 2008.

  10. Hey Bill, The shop book says 13#..........Jon Meyer sells 14# and I have NO PROBLEMS. The book, "What the (Avanti) shop manual won't tell you" ( by Stan Gundry) suggests using a 7# cap to make it a little safer for the radiator & expansion tank........you decide; is your cooling system up to par??!

  11. Joe.....Good news, in typical "Stude" fashion everything required some digging! The shop book page #8 in the electrical section shows #1 on the left bank of cylinders BUT it shows the distributor in the front of the engine. If I had designed aircraft parts like that I would have been fired a long time ago! As I kept digging, lo and behold, on page 26 of the owners guide booklet it states: "Note: No. 1 is the front cylinder of the left bank and No.2 is the front cylinder on the right bank." Do you have the "Owners guide" book ?...needless to say it came in handy this time! I hope this clears things up a little.

  12. Joe, Assuming you have an "Avanti workshop manual" (which you MUST have) refer to the electrical section page #9 fig #5. After the crankshaft timing mark has been set at 0 degrees then start to lower the distributor into the block with the rotor facing the front of engine (near the 1 o'clock position) the distributor will fall into the correct position nearing the 11 o'clock position...........REFER TO THE BOOK.......... I also recommend that you purchase a copy of "What the shop manual won't tell you" by Stan Gundy a must have if you're doing your own work on the car! I hope this reply has helped you.........Fred

  13. Joe, Assuming you have an "Avanti workshop manual" (which you MUST have) refer to the electrical section page #9 fig #5. After the crankshaft timing mark has been set at 0 degrees then start to lower the distributor into the block with the rotor facing the front of engine (near the 1 o'clock position) the distributor will fall into the correct position nearing the 11 o'clock position...........REFER TO THE BOOK.......... I also recommend that you purchase a copy of "What the shop manual won't tell you" by Stan Gundy a must have if you're doing your own work on the car! I hope this reply has helped you.........Fred

  14. Mark. I had my original AM radio modified to play AM/FM by "Retro Radio Restoration", Mike Frenchek, 5524 Ridge Rd, Elizabethtown, PA There were some "growing Pain" problems at first BUT Mike would not quit till he and his wife Chris, resolved them. He even made a "house call" at the 2011 Gettysburg AOAI meet to help resolve them..........I recommend him. 1-717-367-1428 www.retroradio.biz

  15. Dear Dapy - I'm glad you didn't sell !! Too many of us are willing to sell these ultra rare cars too cheaply !! Like I said, my #5255 has had only a sinlge repaint in 1988 & the door jambs & engine compartment & trunk are still original paint - I defy you to see a difference! If we hold on to these beauties the value will go up. Take the Chrysler 300's; it took to the late '80's but they finally have "come of age"!

    I believe that we are on the edge of the "Avanti escalation"......so hang in there folks !!

  16. Check the auction results for GOODING AUCTIONS held around Jan 18th. The car was the 4th one built but a condition #1 is a car which most people would not drive until they have collected a bunch of trophys. A number #2 car is a fine restoration or a fabulous survivor (as is mine #5255). I always wanted a car with red-line tires BUT the Avanti never had them as they were built before those came out. As I said before, you might not like the white stripe BUT the next buyer almost certainlty will

  17. If you are indeed going to sell your Avanti....Please put on white-wall tires; as back in the day (yes I'm that old) I nevever saw an Avanti without white-wall tires and the next owner is almost certainly going to want them on his/her new Avant. I put on 1" wide white stripe Firestone radials on mine. If you go with the 215 width tire you should go with a wider rim wheel 6.00" or 6.25" wide) as the 215 is too wide for the stock 5" Stude rim. Good luck selling your car & remember....don't give it away, a '63 R2, serial number #4 just sold at auction (condition #1) for $74,800

  18. Well boys & girls........it may have happened, the Avanti has, perhaps, finally moved up the auction ladder....."old #1004" has been sold at the Goding auction, last weekend, for $74,800.This was a condition number one (over restored, trailer queen) but a beautiful Avanti to be sure. I for one hope this is just the beginning! It's been a long time coming!!

  19. I ALSO HAVE A '64 ...VIN #5255 I HAD MY CLOCK & TACHOMETER DONE BY "D&M" RESTORATIONS IN GREENVILLE ,SC

    1-800-722-0854 THE WORK WAS FIRST CLASS The clock was $180 for a quartz conversion the tach was $340; the face was renewd and all electronics totally self contained within the tach itself. The original sending unit was removed from under the dash & sold on E-bay for $20. Mske sure you remind them of the fact that the Avanti is fiberglass and all gauges have a seperate ground wire to them.

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