Rick Allen

Colis get hot but maybe not that hot depending on the outside temperature of where you live, in the NE, it's very cold here now. Test the coil with an OHM meter, with everything off, disconnect all the wires (3) to the coil and measure from either one the + or - side terminals with one meter lead and the other lead to the main coil wire lead (center), it should read high, 9 or 10K or higher on the ohm meter, if it reads much lower, it is bad. On the low side, measure the + and - terminals with one lead of the meter on each, depending on what coil was sold with your kit, it should lead 0.5 ohms or less; hope this helps,,,

Possibly the worker who stamped that engine block previously worked in a factory making signs like the one below,,,

Currently running on the bring-a-trailer auction site for $30K with 3 days to go. Nice '64 R2 maroon with red interior, not factory perfect but still a nice car. I'm looking at the engine number and the die for the R is not the same as the rest of the stampings and I don't see the last number (1) which according to the should be K321. I know that back then all stampings were done by hand, and I guess depending on who came in that morning and grabber the stamping tools, no 2 engine numbers would be lined up perfectly. In any event, wondered what others thought of that engine number vs what is on the production order. Also, I remember this same car being on the auction before,,, below are some pictures and the link to the auction is below,,, No Reserve: 1964 Studebaker Avanti R2 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending July 6 (Lot #153,392) | Bring a Trailer

Thank you for that information I don't ever remember seeing those hubcaps on anyone's Avanti but now I know they're not specific to Avanti just a Studebaker option for their cars,,,

Came across someone on Facebook marketplace looking for an original set of 63/64 Avanti wire hubcaps, did such a thing exist?,,,

Thank you, I'll try that,,,

Just got my '83 out of storage after 18 mounts, it started right up after a little gas down the carb but I noticed the tachometer is only moving very little, idle at 400 rpm, normal hi-way driving 7-800 rpms, it was working fine when it was parked. Anyone have any suggestions as to what may cause a tach in these cars to act like this and how to correct it? I should add, everything is factory, no aftermarket ignition or any other parts were changed!

Where in New York?,,

My car is all part, the engine is out for rebuild but I did find the fuel pump and the restrictor is on the fuel pump itself so I guess it's a '63,,,

Titled as a '64, round headlights, later production number, one of the last 809/810 produced, so it could be either one,,,

Does anyone have a picture of this restrictor and return line to post?,,,

Are 225/70/15 a good size for a slightly wider tire for my '64 R2?,,,