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Everything posted by cmholm

  1. LeoB, encouraged by feedback on the FB Avanti Owners group, I gave drilling out one of the steering shaft holes a go, and it worked a treat. After cleaning up the hole with a Dremel, everything mated up cleanly. Although it doesn't show up in the photo, I added a grounding wire.
  2. Abstract: my steering column to rag joint bolt holes are both ~5/16", while my new rag joint bolts are 5/16" and 3/8". Best way to cope? Following up on @A83's question from 15 June, 2021 regarding steering column rag joints... after getting accidentally bounced over a hydraulic security barrier in 2019, my (solid shaft) steering column was left with some vertical play. I lived with it until this year, and found that both the rag joint and plastic steering column bushing were damaged. I ordered replacements from SI (bushing) and Nostalgic (rag joint). I made the mistake of not test fitting the rag joint on the steering column while I had the column out and disassembled, and now find that while the bolt holes at the end of the steering shaft are both ~5/16", the bolts on the rag joint are 5/16 and 3/8". I understand that having differing diameters reduces the odds of reattaching the steering column 180 degrees out of whack, but when my car was built (R3318, 02-18-1963), Studebaker apparently hadn't yet seen the light. Dan Booth said he hasn't run into this before, and so I'll need to drill out one of the holes. I'm not religiously opposed to doing this, but I lack a drill press, and am not enthusiastic about doing this with a hand drill. What is your experience? Is there a source for 5/16" x 5/16" rag joints, or should I suck it up and drill out a hole to 3/8"? @silverstude offered up some rag joint suppliers that A38 could check for his '83 Avanti, but I suspect anything with an adjustable steering column for a '64 onward isn't going to be compatible.
  3. While I have my dash disassembled for a pad replacement, I'm looking at the instrument panel overlay finish with a more critical eye. A previous owner didn't do a bad job with some fawn paint touchups along the edges, but I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with a stripping/repainting. If so, what did you do?
  4. Glue: I ponied up the money for Nostalgic's pad. Which vinyl glue seems to work best? I was considering RH Adhesives HH-66. I'll ask Dan Booth, but figured I'd make this a place holder in case he was hit by a bus. [answer: weldwood contact cement]
  5. While installing new intake manifold and carburetor gaskets on my '63 R1, I briefly turned the carb upside down. A small (1/2") white plastic barrel with a brass pin fell out. I've reviewed the Carter AFB parts in the parts and shop manuals, on-line diagrams, and watched a Carter/Edelbrock carb rebuild video, but have no clue where this bugger goes. Can anyone purchase me a clue? On reflection, I recall hauling parts from a disassembled laptop passed my workbench on the way to the rubbish, so it's possible that this is a bit of wayward electronics. But, I thought I'd double check before I hooked the carb up.
  6. Abstract: my '63 AFB carb's automatic choke heater pipe is clogged. Gas tank has interior rust. Best path to clean/replace? My '63's R-1 engine had recently been having a dickens of a time lighting up and staying lit. The vacuum seemed ok, so I took the car to a carb shop that advertises in the local SDC chapter's newsletter. They noticed a couple of things: 1) rust coming in through the fuel system, and 2) the heater tube for the automatic choke was blocked. The choke thermostatic spring was apparently incorrect, and replaced. Issue #1 rust in fuel: I'm going to address it with a replacement tank, and a new fuel sender while I'm at it, the gas gauge never having read more than half full on my watch. I'll test the gauge too. Studebaker Intl's replacement tank is apparently aluminum, which even if not coated inside I'm thinking will do better with current fuel than steel. Based on my experience cleaning rust from surfaces I have full access to, I don't see any value in attempting to clean and re-seal the current steel tank. Issue #2 clogged choke heater: The '63 parts catalog (page 29) shows p/n 1557420 Pipe, Automatic choke heater. As you'll likely know, the bugger is a metal loop plugged into the intake manifold. The part isn't in stock with either Studebaker International or Stephen Allen's (mystudebaker dot com). Unless I can run a pipe cleaning brush through both the rubbish in the pipe and the sharp bend in the loop (not likely), I'm going to have to remove the manifold and tap the thing out from behind to remove and deal with. I pray the crap in the pipe isn't due to a hole. Questions: How have you cleaned or obtained a replacement choke heater pipe? Or, do most people ditch the original automatic choke for an electric? Should I bother sealing the aluminum gas tank? I was considering Caswell's gas tank sealer.
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