Ron Dame

Rotors, usable as is, might have one cut left, calipers (stuck), caliper mounting brackets, master cylinder (stuck) rear cylinders ( disassembled, pitted, but ready for sleeving) Any or all for the price of shipping from 28804. I need them out of my way ASAP.

Indeed it did sell! And there were two buyers pounding each other over the head in the last minutes. Hammer price was $26.250 for a #4 car. Yes, I am quite pleased.

Hi DAPY, thanks! BaT and other non auto auctions prefer no reserve for obvious reasons, but there does seem to be a flurry of action when there is no reserve, or it is dropped. I was feeling good about the action so decided to kick it up. It was close enough to me reserve for me to risk. I'm getting close to break even, which is all I need!

Thanks, That gives me a good chance of breaking even

Now we shall see! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-studebaker-avanti-9/

My notes said I had replaced the filler hose, but I must have meant to remember to replace it.

Was there a running change in the location of the vent /overflow lines? The connections on my tank are not in the same place as shown in the Bob Johnstone's web page, especially the vent connection which is dead center on my tank, instead of to the side on his photo. Further, the vent line runs up into the left pillar, then back down and through a hole in the tank floor, instead of the right wheel well as described on that page. My issue is gas fumes in the cabin that I cannot locate. Should I re-route this line?

The car does have promise. Using my labor, including painting, I estimate $10K will have it looking very good, but I don't have $10K or the desire to put more time into it. I will probably put a flyer ad in Hemmings and see what happens before I go to auction. I'm not sure Bring a Trailer would list it either.

Albert Ross, a/k/a my 1963 ,R1092 R2/Powershift car has been a challenge, but I've won. But I am tired. Is Hagerty's value of $16,000 realistic for a #4 car? That's a bit less than I have in it, but that's the way things go. Here is a quick synopsis of Albert: Original RS 1038 R2, which was just rebuilt completely. Supercharger works fine. Hog troughs and frame are solid. Completely new/remanufactured brakes, from the pedal to the disc/drums, with a Turner conversion on the front. Steering is good, exhaust is old but solid, glass is good. I finally overcame all the crap that comes with a car that was poorly stored for 20+ years. Finally, everything works as it should, and it drives well. Well, there is no antenna, so the radio is unknown and the clock...it of course does not work. Glass is all good, and very little fiberglass work to be done. Here is where it gets ugly like a moldy original Shakespeare manuscript: The paint SUCKS! But really awful paint isn't any more expensive to repair than tired paint. Chrome is straight, but worn and pitted. Maybe OK for a driver if you aren't very picky. The car sat for years outside, filled with water, and got really moldy inside. I stripped most of it, scrubbed the heck out of it, but everything needs re-doing. Dash pad is passable, but not perfect. Here is my conundrum: It's a great driver, ready to go if you are blind, but as butt-ugly as it can be. It does not present well, yet everything it needs probably costs no more than if it just looked tired. Is the Hagerty's value reasonable? How can I present this car for sale better than any photos would suggest? What venue might be best to present it?

That was fun watching the headlight covers being made.

That is not my car, and that is Fatman insulation. The carbon fiber is black and like a blanket. But I installed it just like this. Putting it over the tunnel means you dont need to put any behind the gauge panel

For Sale Avanti ll parts Larry Shier shierlarjan@yahoo.com Romeo,Mi. 48065 586-752-9481 Avanti frame-excellent cond.$2550.00;body parts,trim,gauges,dash,glass,doors,rear seats,rear bumper,front bumper end pieces,frame pieces,suspension parts,&misc. parts Ad Number: 20760 Date Added: 2018-09-06 01:44:17

Thanks! Those are maybe 1 1/4" - 1 1/2"?.

when and where were the heat escape holes bored? What size? Mine runs hot and I run on the highway with the hood popped.I'd like something more elegant

Supercharger is good, manual windows but power steering. Oil pressure is adequate, but below what I'd like to see, 10# per 1000 RPM. Smokey Yunick said that was fine. The rest of the engine is healthy, good compression, no noises or smoke. Everything works as it should except the radio and clock. Lots of documentation, and 59,000 miles on the clock, supported by the docs I have.