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R2W55

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Everything posted by R2W55

  1. Actually I scrapped most of the glue off with a razor blade, same as I scrapped off all the paint off the outside of the car. All it need then was a light sanding except near the trunk lip where there was a lot of excess bondo. The carpet is 1 piece, not cut out for the tire well. So I am trying to decide if I keep it one piece and not glued down to access the spare, or cut out the circle and and sew on edging. I ordered the carpet from a site on ebay https://www.ebay.com/usr/benher58?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 They also had a full carpet set ($260) which I bought and and again was very high quality but was for a 63/64 and needed a little modification for the 78. Even included the door pieces and alternate pieces for AC or no AC.. I am also modifying the latch to accept both a trunk cable and an electric solenoid. I have most of the mechanics down (you have to separate the cable actuator from the solenoid) and the springs are giving me some concern.. If anyone is interested I'll post some pictures when I get it all figured out.
  2. Great article and information. I ordered a trunk carpet for my 78 from a Internet ad for $70 with shipping. While the carpet was excellent and it it fit perfectly it was only the floor piece. As I am doing a full restoration and the car is a 78 Avanti II and I am not too concerned about full authenticity as I would if it was 63 or 64. I decided to remove all the glue and sand the sides. I can see why they added the carpet as there was a lot of unsanded 'bondo' areas. I am painting the trunk a matching color of the car. I think it looks better than all the carpet pieces.
  3. Jim, I bought one of the Mustang ones and it is VERY close. I will have to notch the top of the glove box hole (only the fiberglass, not the padding) to accept the ridge. I will also have to drill new holes on the flanges as the pony ones are too far out. The catch will also have to be moved a little. The key part of the cylinder is very close to the original so I can slide the 'chrome' piece on the end over it will fill the padding hole very nice. I haven't actually done the mods yet but they look fairly straight forward. What is really nice about the mustang part is it is new works like silk. I'll re-post after the mods are done
  4. I am also looking for a working, locking glove box latch. Seems no has a good one for sale I have found out they are also used on 60 Larks. I have found a similar but not exact item on a mid/late 60 Mustang. https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-glove-box-latch-1967-1968/p/HW1663/ If you try the mustang one let me know how it works
  5. Talking it over with the guys in my Chicago chapter, they agree. What concerns we is that it looks like the metal plate was a 'wedge' shape. I am assuming this was to give the proper angle to the pedal, for the accelerator rod. I think I will have mock this up with the new pedal to make sure I am not putting pre-pressure on the accelerator assembly. A few people have said mount to the floor with a hinge. But since the base is under the carpet, the carpet would raise and add pressure to the movement of the pedal.
  6. Thank you for getting back to me. What you stated and showed is what I would have expected but as you can see in the pictures I've attached, the old pedal has a piece of rusted out steel and the floor board does not have any holes. I also looked under the car and do not see any indication that holes had been 'filled'. I don't know if you can see it but the bottom metal has a lip like it was sitting on a triangular piece. There is considerable staining in this area probably from the rusting but this is why I thought the pedal had been epoxied to the floor. Any other thoughts?
  7. R2W55

    Dash Pad

    I bought the Brushed aluminum from Menards (or Home Depot) as the bottom kick plate for doors. I should also mention I am doing the interior in Black so the Brushed neckel really jumps out. I made cardboard templates from the existing Wood overlays, or what was left of them. I made sure the templates were correct before I very , very slowly cut and filed the metal to the correct shape. one of the harder parts was bending the instrument panel in the correct place and angle. you only get 1 chance! I would add some pictures of the instrument panel but I have it boxed up right now until I get ready for it. I have included the temperature console and the air conditional panels. The slight curl on the AC panel was a challenge. If you have a mill it would be easier as all I have is a drill press, hand shears and files. Good luck
  8. Does anybody have a source for a replacement glove box latch for a 78? the internal springs broke on mine. I've tried replacing springs but nothing seems to work right. I doesn't need it to be exact but I would like it to lock. I am not against doing a little modifications also
  9. Does anyone know how the accelerator pedal on a 78 attaches to the body? On the restoration I'm doing the bottom of the pedal was completely rusted away. I bought a new pedal from Studebaker International but it is only rubber and does not have any 'hinge' at the bottom. There are no holes in the floor so I am thinking the pedal had a hinge screwed to the bottom and was epoxied to the floor. Thoughts?
  10. R2W55

    Dash Pad

    I used the SI dash and had very few problems and I think it look great! While I was at it I am replacing all the 'wood-grain' overlays, dash and center consoles with a Brushed Aluminum. A lot of tedious work but I think they look great with the black gauges. On a side note: I need a new latch mechanism for the glove box. the springs broke internally. I do not need a exact duplicate but would like a locking latch. Anybody have a source for a replacement? I am not against doing a little modification
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