Front End Wander

[Cobra Pilot]

OK, I jumped in and purchased a '81 Avanti. Just had 4 new tires installed, 215/70's and a front end alignment done. I know the early 80's power steering wasn't the best and I don't care for the feel of it. The car has a nasty wander to it at low speeds, almost feels like a pin-ball machine. At speeds above 50, the steering is fine. What could I do to hopefully elimnate the wandering? Can the alignment be changed to stop the wander? I drove the car 1300 miles to my home in Palm Bay, Florida and almost stopped a couple of times to remove the power steering belt. Appreciate any info or ideas to improve the slow speed steering.

Thanx, Rob.

P.S. A quick note to Ernie, thanks for checking out the '81, it was as you explained. In fact I looked at a '80 first several miles away and then the 81. I'll give you a call later this week, Thanx.

[WayneC]

OK, I jumped in and purchased a '81 Avanti. Just had 4 new tires installed, 215/70's and a front end alignment done. I know the early 80's power steering wasn't the best and I don't care for the feel of it. The car has a nasty wander to it at low speeds, almost feels like a pin-ball machine. At speeds above 50, the steering is fine. What could I do to hopefully eliminate the wandering? Can the alignment be changed to stop the wander?

I'm no expert, but here's a couple of my thoughts...

Avanti steering doesn't have as positive a feel as a rack & pinion setup, but it shouldn't be annoying.

All the adjustments in the world won't overcome worn parts, so have the front suspension closely checked before spending any more money on another alignment.

Hard to know from the description... I would hope the alignment guy would have checked for

worn/loose tie rod ends or bellcrank bushing or wheel bearings. Have them checked again, because they

are the likely causes. Kingpin bushings, control arm inner bushings, and control arm outer pin bushings are also wear points that should be checked... how much mileage is on the chassis? How well does the car handle rough road conditions like pot holes? If the front end feels like a hammer hitting an anvil, the suspension is in very serious need of refurbishing due to badly-worn parts. The Avanti has a LOT of lubrication zerks, and today's fast-lube shops are used to modern cars that have NO lube fittings, so it may not have gotten proper care. The rubber in the inner control arm bushings and in the steering column rag joint doesn't last forever, either. Have a competent mechanic make a thorough check of all those items.

Beyond that, wandering is pretty much a function of the caster setting. Positive setting = less wander, "goes where you point it", but feels a bit sluggish getting there; negative caster results in "wander" or "darting", and you have to ride herd on it. It's possible the alignment shop used Studebaker Avanti settings, which are meant for the original-equipment bias-belted tires. The toe-in setting must be modified a bit (for radial tires) to get closer to a zero setting than the stock Stude setting.

What was the wear pattern on the old tires? Was the wander present BEFORE the tires were replaced?

Did you have the impression the alignment shop knew how to adjust the old kingpin suspension system?

In many shops they never see kingpins, only ball joint suspensions. Modern shops can give you a computer readout (from the alignment machine) of the settings before and after the alignment. Ask your regular mechanic where he'd go for an alignment... the local tire store is generally NOT the most competent at doing alignments, although some ARE.

I don't have my shop manual or other references available to me today, but here's a link to some

alignment specs:

http://www.avantiparts.net/spec.htm

It says the caster setting is -3/4 to +3/4 degree, with zero degrees preferred... I would make sure

it's set to zero or slightly positive... and the toe-in should be 1/16 to 1/8 inch rather than the Stude spec of 3/16 to 1/4.

I think there are also adjustments that can be made to the power steering but usually that simply centers the valve so that the car doesn't have a tendency to pull to one (the same) side when the steering wheel is centered. The steering gearbox also has a centering and snugness adjustment, but I'd only ask a professional to play with that, and then only if he has the Avanti shop manual in front of him; the Avanti shop manual should cover those adjustments.

Edited August 6, 2007 by WayneC

[SBCA96]

Ditto to what Wayne said, and I stress the caster adjustment.

Once you take care of the worn parts (dont forget the bellcrank), there is

an adjustment in the rear of the control valve. I just rebuilt my whole PS

system and upon completion was VERY unhappy with how it darted back

and forth. The cap is held on with two screws, and there is a 1/2 selflocking

nut on a shaft. This is the PS sensitivity adjustment. Loosen this one to

two flats (NOT TURNS) and write it down (or mark it). Drive the car and

see if its any better. If this part was recently replaced, rebuilt or messed

with, it could be set wrong. I turned mine 1.5 flats and it made a HUGE

difference ... like a new car. Also, there is an adjustment on the pitman

arm ball that can take up slack there. It requires almost a complete tear

down though. If you can FEEL movement up and down in the bellcrank, it

can be adjusted by taking out the slimest shim and bolting it back up. on

mine this made a nice change also. I put the shim under the nut so the

cotter pin can go into the same hole as before. The shim does not effect

the end play unless its on the shoulder of the pin, and holding the washer

away from the housing.

Tom