Door locks on 1975

[Devildog]

My locks did not work so tonight I pulled the lock assemblies. I cleaned and lubricated them. I determined how they function...that small small trigger at the back under the guide stud has to be fully depressed when closed.

The inside manual levers now work smoothly and lock the doors; however, the key does not activate either to LOCK or UNLOCK (if locked with inside lever).

Any tricks to working the locks with the key ?

thanks in advance

Joe

[kboyd]

I had a similar problem with the door locks on my 83. Ended up replacing the door lock cylinders which fixed the problem. The 83 uses the same door lock cylinders as used on the 83 Chevrolet Caprice and they are routinely stocked at major auto parts retailers. The replacement cost is modest, it seems like it was around $10.00 or $15.00 for the two replacement lock cylinders. The only minor hassel with the swap out was removing and reinstalling the flat spring on the end of the lock cylinder which needs to be reused. Once you fiddel with it a little you will see how it works and the level of effort is minor. Also, using a sheet metal dolly as a knocker works great for replacing the larger flat spring that mounts the lock cylinder to the door.

Recommend you take one of your door lock cylinders down to a major auto parts retailer and see if they can match it up. A similar vintage GM vehicle would probably be a good starting point.

[Devildog]

I had a similar problem with the door locks on my 83. Ended up replacing the door lock cylinders which fixed the problem. The 83 uses the same door lock cylinders as used on the 83 Chevrolet Caprice and they are routinely stocked at major auto parts retailers. The replacement cost is modest, it seems like it was around $10.00 or $15.00 for the two replacement lock cylinders. The only minor hassel with the swap out was removing and reinstalling the flat spring on the end of the lock cylinder which needs to be reused. Once you fiddel with it a little you will see how it works and the level of effort is minor. Also, using a sheet metal dolly as a knocker works great for replacing the larger flat spring that mounts the lock cylinder to the door.

Recommend you take one of your door lock cylinders down to a major auto parts retailer and see if they can match it up. A similar vintage GM vehicle would probably be a good starting point.

Thanks for suggestion, but my 75 has the German manufactured locks that were used on the early Avanti's. I wish I did have the GM locks.

[drat]

I had a similar problem. First I cleaned the whole mechanismin the door, then I found a locksmith that was an actual locksmith. Old guy that new exactly what I had in my hand when I walked in the door. He rebulit both tumblers and made copys of my original 69 aluminum key. I now use the new key on the door and the old one for the ignition. Total cost 25 bucks and he did it in one day.

But ya gotta find an ole timer as these newbies only want to replace stuff, not repair original equipment.

[Kennie B.]

Joe,

I think you're mixing up what sounds to be happening.

It sounds as if you have pulled the latches out and cleaned and this is a good place to start. By this time, the grease in them was dry and stiff.

But now, you mention that the doors lock and un-lock from inside. The problem is outside, the key is unable to work. As mentioned in posts #2 & 4, the tumbler is the problem. This is the unit that the key slides into. With time these wear but even worse, get gunked up. A good locksmith can take these apart and clean the pins and determine if the parts are still good. If they aren't, it is very likely that a GM tumbler is the solution. While the latches were made by the same vender as Benz, the tumblers weren't. Again, a locksmith can make the old key work with a new tumbler.

For future referance, you do not want to use liquid lubricants in tumblers, white graphite works best long term.

Good luck, Kennie