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Posts posted by okc63avanti

  1. I've located a replacement door in Romeo, Michigan (Just North of Detroit). If anyone is planning a trip in the near future from Detroit towards St. Louis and has room to transport an avanti door, please contact me. I would be willing to help with your expenses. The door is going to Brad Bez who will be doing the repair work for me.



  2. Nostalgic is your best hope but they show up on Ebay occasionally. No matter where you find it be sure to fit it prior to painting. There is a fair amount of variability in them.

    Also, why not contact Brad Bez and see what he would advise, might be cheaper to fix yours than repaint another one. Also on the SDC forum, IIRC, there have been a couple of posts on repairing that issue.

    Good luck, Bob

    Brad will be doing my work, he advised trying to find a replacement door.

  3. The driver's door on my 63 avanti sagged when I purchased it 15 years ago. The fiberglass where upper hinge goes in door was cracked and Michael Myer did the best he could to repair during my restoration (finished 2012). Since that time Oklahoma wind has caught the door stressed the fiberglass again and now the fiberglass around upper hinge is in worst shape. I think its time to think about replacing the door.

    I am interested in purchasing a NOS door or a used driver's door in great shape (not cracked). I think at this point replacing the door is probably my best option. Please respond if anyone knows of an available door in great shape.



  4. Since I went they resto-mod route I went with a Grant GT wheel. My original steering wheel was in bad shape with deep cracks down to the metal ring inside, but the strangest thing of all is the smell. Michael Myer said it was the most putrid smell he has ever noticed from a car part. Apparently the sun plus age of the plastic decay was releasing some chemical that gave off a really bad smell. The one off my car may too bad for reconditioning. You might check with Myer Studebaker or other vendors as they may have one in good condition.

  5. Hi John,

    I'm having the same problem. I installed new motors (400.00), lubed all moving parts and installed new lower rollers on the window channel. Still a problem raising windows without "manual" assistance. Reading other threads advise to wind up the regulator springs. If the price of the regulators you posted are for 2 I would be willing to share the cost. You take one and I take one as a test. At least we would only be out 1/2 the cost each. If they are 465 each I will continue with the "armstrong" assist method. Harvey

    I believe that is the price for a pair but a call to the Hargers would be necessary to confirm that. My car is fresh off a complete frame off restoration by Myer Studebaker. Michael did a great job and I was with him when we worked on the windows. New rollers, tracks, motors, switches, etc. and the windows must be helped up when near bottom position. The original regulators were tightened up and cleaned and springs were wound tight. We didn't replace springs however. I use the windows and when lowering them I tend to leave about an inch of window sticking up below lowest position to have something to pull up on, it also helps to open the door when pulling them up, I'll post on SDC forum as well and see if anyone has had experience with these. Brand new regulators with modern motors sounds like a good idea but I sure would like to hear from someone who has tried them.

  6. My recent resto/mod with a R2-1/2 performance engine rebuild (between R2 and R3 specs) has Edelbrock 1406, Paxton Supercharger w/ high output impeller, R3 valves, ported heads, R3 exhaust, KB hypereutectic pistons, Tremec TKO 5 speed (OD gear is 0.64) and 3.73 ratio rear end.

    At 70 MPH I turn about 2100~2200 rpm. I'm still breaking in the engine as I have about 2000 miles on it now but so far my gasoline mileage measured on long highway trip is about 13.5 to 14 MPG. The carb needs to be tweaked and jetted a little bit leaner I believe. I'm hoping for something around 16~18 eventually. Of course I like having fun with the car and really don't try and drive economically.

  7. Instead of buying LED bulbs. Paint the inside of your tail light housing bright white using engine paint (it can handle heat). Then for added protection I run this LED 3rd brake light that uses suction cups on the rear window of my avanti. This helps put brake lights at eye level and it is what drivers are accustom to seeing on other cars. The BrakeLighter has an RCA type quick disconnect for shows when you don't want it displayed in the rear window. You can adjust angle of brackets holding the suction cups for angle of rear glass and you can adjust the brake light to flash for several seconds or to just glow steady when the brakes are applied.


  8. James the center disc of the knob actually has BMW lettering. Here's a close up picture with Recaro label, it has a number of KBA 90024, I guess it could be a model number. The seats came out of an 83 Avanti II. If you know of a source for knobs I could buy a matching pair if they will fit this Recaro seat. The Disc saying Recaro would actually be nicer than the BMW inserts

    Thanks, John.


  9. Michael Myer did my engine build and restoration. We used Valvoline VR-1 20w50 (has 1400 ppm Zinc and 1300 ppm Phosphorus) . Use the silver label VR-1 it is a complete oil package with additives and is street legal. The black label VR-1 is only for the drag strip and racing. In addition we added a bottle of Lucas Engine Break-in oil Additive. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=82&catid=9&loc=show

    After break-in I changed the oil just using just the Valvoline VR-1 without any additives.

  10. Check actual temperature with a separate thermometer in case gauge reading is inaccurate. If gauge is accurate pull thermostat and check that it is opening at right temperature. I have bought new thermostats that were bad.

    I had my engine rebuild with recent frame off restoration. The engine is an R2+ build with R3 valves and ported heads, aluminum intake and R3 exhaust. The estimated horsepower is 340~350. We used a custom aluminum radiator and 160 deg thermostat. My car also is running its original factory AC system (with Sanden compressor & R12) as it was an R1 with air before restoration. At speed the car runs 155~160 degrees even in 90-100 degree Oklahoma temperature with the AC on. Coming back from South Bend, I got stuck in a traffic jam for about 45 minutes on I-70 West of Indianapolis due to construction. I kept the car running but turned off the AC and rolled down the windows in mid to high 90's temperatures outside. The car at times would idle a little rough requiring a little toe tapping on accelerator but never got pass 195 F.

    One other big factor is when Michael Myer has an engine rebuild, the machine shop he uses to clean the block dips and flushes them about 4 times as they claim Studebaker blocks are one of the hardest to get the water jacket clean, hopefully your block was cleaned sufficiently.

    I wish you luck and keep us informed.

  11. That's what I found when I last checked a couple of years ago.

    I'll look at the battery mat.

    One question, concern: Won't it raise the battery to much to fit?

    No the mat is not that thick and it is compressed by the weight of the battery. I ordered the black oversized Mat 8" X 20" as I thought the yellow wouldn't look good. Once installed you don't really see the mat. The 20" length is perfect for the 3EE, the 8" width is a little wide so you can either trim it or do as I did and just pull excess up along side of battery between battery and outside fender wall.

  12. While we're on the topic, does anyone make a sealed (Optima-like) 3EE?

    Antique Auto Battery (google website) makes a maintance free battery (gell type like Optima) in a 3EE size with Willard on the side (brand used by Studebaker). They list the dimensions a being 9" tall which gives me a bit of concern so I would contact first and make sure the actual height matches a 3EE battery and not the 3EH battery. The biggest draw back on this battery is price. Last quote I saw was $270 (without shipping). I went with Interstate lead acid battery and can buy almost 3 of them for the price of the Antique Auto Battery.

    One other thing I would recomend. .... I purchased this auto absorbing battery mat and trimmed it to fit under my battery. If I do get any linkage or acid this battery mat absorbs it and neutralizes it, protecting the paint finish on the fender inside the engine bay.


  13. It's possible you purchased or had someone install a 3EH battery. They are about the same width and length but are 9" high. The correct size is 3EE (height is about 8-5/8") and is available at several places. My recently restored avanti has a 3EE Interstate battery the model is called a Workaholic. Tractor Supply will have them in stock probably and your local FLAPS if they don't have one in stock and probably order one.

  14. Before my frame off restoration my car was avanti white. The scoop area under front bumper was painted white. It is my opinion the older photographs where the scoop area appears black is a function of shading captured by the camera versus factory cars with black paint inside the scoop area.

  15. Studebaker Parts manual shows different parts numbers for Power Window regulators before serial no. 5507 and after serial no. 5507. Does anybody know the story behind the change in part numbers for the same item?

    My car is 63R2386 so the right front regulator is 1357722 and the left front regulator is 1357723. I would probably me interested in the NOS regulators if they are right part nos. and are a pair for left and right doors. I'm also wondering if anyone has ever removed the stepped rivets from pivot points and thought about machining olite or Delrin stepped bearings to replace the rivots.

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