Paulie
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Posts posted by Paulie
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Dear Dave,
You can buy new hinges from Studebaker International of Greenfield, IN, at (317) 462-3124 from 8 to 5 EST at or by online on http://www.studebaker-intl.com/contact_us.html .Left side: part No. 1358935; Right side: part No. 1358934.
They are good to deal with.
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
paulie@consolidated.net
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Dear Gunslinger,
I pulled the seat and added a 2" spacer as you suggested; it worked just fine. I also added a new seat belt assembly to replace the two-buckle one came from the factory on my '70 Avanti II.
Thanks,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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Dear John,
I would like to buy a set of the square headlight gaskets; please send me your address again so I can send my check.
Thanks,
Paul D. Eikenbary
paulie@consolidated.net
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Dear John,
No, I did not receive your email. Try sending to me again at paulie@consolidated.net .
Please send me your name, address, and the price you want including shipping charge to me at 5106 Hamlet Drive, Gibsonia, PA 15044.
Thanks again,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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Dear John,
I'd like to buy one set of your wiper arms; please let me know how much they would be.
Paul D. Eikenbary
5106 Hamlet Drive
Gibsonia, PA 15044
Thanks
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Dear friends,
The Avanti factory supplies a rearward extention that is not long enough for my long legs to comfortably reach the throttle and brake pedals without having to "scrunch up" my legs. Do you have any ideas how I can add a rearward extension to the existing rails so I can sit a bit further from the pedals?
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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Dear Gunslinger,
Yes, I'd like to receive a copy of your PDF. file of the parts list of my '70 Avanti II. My email address is : paulie@consolidated.net .
Thanks a lot.
Paul D. Eikenbary
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I recently purchased a 1970 Avanti Motors Parts and Accessories price list to go along with my '70 Avanti, and when I looked through it, out fell an eight page Avanti II Parts Supplement as an addition to the Studebaker Avanti Parts Catalog.
It lists Avanti Motors part numbers for post-Studebaker Avanti parts, the vendor each was sourced from, and the vendor's part number for each. It's a 1970 listing, so it may not be much help to those who own later Avanti II's, but it should still be a help to all to some degree.
I've scanned the list as a .pdf file and anyone who wants a copy, just send me an e-mail and I'll e-mail it back as an attachment.
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Dear Avanti Owners,
My garage expert tells me that a bearing is going out in my '70 Avanti alternator (45 amp ?)
The engine is a high-performance 350 CU inch Corvette engine that was was rebuilt in '72.
Where can I find a a new a new one?
Thank you,
Best regards,
Paul
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Hello again,
I would like to replace one of the magnum 500 wheels on my Avanti. Does anyone know the the stock size and make of the Magnum 500's used by Avanti at the time?
Thanks,
Tony
Dear Tony,
I also have a '70 Avanti which I found had two bent Magnum 500 wheels just last week. After doing some searching on the internet, I ran across the site shown below which has an easy way to plug in a tire size to obtain a wheel size and vice versa. Sorry to get back to you so very late.
http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp
I'm busy getting my Avanti with only 47,000 miles on it to be almost perfect mechanically and cosmetically for possible sale; but after all I've done to it so far (and having owned it since '72) I may not be able to part with it after all!
Best regards and good luck with yours,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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I did. I'm about 6' 2" and the seat simply did not go back far enough for me to get comfortable. Following Mr. Loewy's advice to never leave well enough alone, I decided to engineer a solution. Here's what I came up with.
I went to Home Depot and bought a flat bar of weldable steel about 1/4" thick and 2" wide by 24" long. I cut four sections out of it, each one 3" long. I drilled two holes 1/4 inch from each end large enough for a 5/16" bolt to go though. I removed the driver's seat, which is an easy job of removing four bolts from their captive nuts in the frame. Once the seat was out of the car, flip it over and see that the seat attaches to individual slider frames, one with a lock and one with a spring. Each one was held on by two bolts, which I removed. I then mounted the seat track to one end of the flat bar and mounted the other end to the seat itself, resulting in the seat being 2.5" further back relative to the track. I had to drill a hold in the seat track to clear the head of the inner bolt (one per side) but it didn't affect the track at all. To remount the seat in the car, I replace the two rear mounting bolts with studs so I could just mount a nut on them. Moving the seat back results in not being able to access the rear mounts easily, and takes some time to get the nuts on.
The end result is the 2.5" of additional legroom makes all the difference. I can now stretch out my right leg on the accelerator in comfort and leave the steering wheel in the lowered position. As a bonus, I now have more headroom as when the seat slides further back it is on an angle that increases.
If anyone is interested in doing this, contact me directly and I can give you more details.
I did. I'm about 6' 2" and the seat simply did not go back far enough for me to get comfortable. Following Mr. Loewy's advice to never leave well enough alone, I decided to engineer a solution. Here's what I came up with.I went to Home Depot and bought a flat bar of weldable steel about 1/4" thick and 2" wide by 24" long. I cut four sections out of it, each one 3" long. I drilled two holes 1/4 inch from each end large enough for a 5/16" bolt to go though. I removed the driver's seat, which is an easy job of removing four bolts from their captive nuts in the frame. Once the seat was out of the car, flip it over and see that the seat attaches to individual slider frames, one with a lock and one with a spring. Each one was held on by two bolts, which I removed. I then mounted the seat track to one end of the flat bar and mounted the other end to the seat itself, resulting in the seat being 2.5" further back relative to the track. I had to drill a hold in the seat track to clear the head of the inner bolt (one per side) but it didn't affect the track at all. To remount the seat in the car, I replace the two rear mounting bolts with studs so I could just mount a nut on them. Moving the seat back results in not being able to access the rear mounts easily, and takes some time to get the nuts on.
The end result is the 2.5" of additional legroom makes all the difference. I can now stretch out my right leg on the accelerator in comfort and leave the steering wheel in the lowered position. As a bonus, I now have more headroom as when the seat slides further back it is on an angle that increases.
If anyone is interested in doing this, contact me directly and I can give you more details.
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A number of times my Avanti has developed an oil leak here or there which IS the problem; the here or there! As with most older cars, our Avanti engines, transmissions, and undercarriages have become covered with any combination of oils throughout the years. When a leak develops, it is difficult to immediately note its source.
What I have found to be the best thing to do before spending a lot of money to randomly replace various gaskets and seals is to do the following. Have your engine, transmission, and undercarriage professionally steam-cleaned. I mean professionally done, not by some high school drop-out who doesn't know what he's doing and could make a mess of your engine's intake, wiring, or car's finish! Then, have your oil, power steering fluid, and transmission fluid changed, all with dyes added to them--one-at-a-time. Drive your Avanti for two weeks for each change and return to the shop that changed your fluids and ask them to check the locations of leaks using their ultra-violet dye testing light.
After doing that, you'll finally really know the REAL here or there of your leak! In the meantime, you'll be so happy that you've saved some money on not repairing things that didn't need them, all of your oil changes will be up-to-date, and your Avanti will look so much more pretty with the hood up again!
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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I spent about $1,200 on my engine's FINE tunement! It included a brand new carb, ignition wiring, plugs, condenser, fuel filter, etc. I believe that the the final fix was a very, very simple replacement of the of the insulating washer between the condensor wire and its attatchment. It had a very small crack in it.
I hope that you have good luck!
Best regards,
Paul
In retrospect, I should have made my point more abundantly clear. AFTER the $1,200 tune-up including all sorts of checks for vacuum leaks, I still had problems with my car. It would start and run fine for a while until the engine warmed up. That's when the engine would start its coughing and stumbling fits and finally dying out, especially when I tried to give it some throttle acceleration or worse when stepping on the brake while at a stop. THAT is when my shop finally discovered the very small crack in the insulator between the condensor wire and its attachment. I have had absolutely no problems since its replacement six months ago.
Best regards,
Paul
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I am getting ready to do an end to end electrical rehab on my '63 Avanti.
I would gladly pay for expenses for anyone who could photocopy or preferably scan the following articles and mail/e-mail them to me.
thanks!
e-mail to 63Avanti@sterkel.org
Issue/page/title
26 18 Technical Tip-Electric Window Door Repair
26 18 Avanti electric window bracket repair
27 14 Technical Tip-Avanti Tach. Sender Problems
27 15 Technical Tip-Electric Diagram-Tach Sending Unit
56 33 Electric Window Problems
56 43 Technical Tip-Electric Window Switch Bezel
56 44 Technical Tip-Dash Panel
69 19 Suggested fixes for Electric Clock
100 38 Service Letter F-1963-3 Electric windows
100 59 Tech Tips - DOT5 / brake light switches
100 62 Ignition wires
Hello, tsterkel,
I have already made copies of the articles that you have requested from my original AOAI magazines. I could Email them to you; however, that would result in them becoming compressed .jpeg formats of poor quality. I would be happy to mail them to you free of charge via USPS if you would send your postal address to me at paulie@nauticom.net .
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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I have a 63 Ri Avanti-all stock. This car was bought by my dad new. He meticulously maintained it-he was an avaition engineer. I learned to work along side him. I have just tuned up the engine, but am experiencing weird fluctuations in the idling, and rough acceleration. I noticed my dad replaced the base plate where the points are screwed into-Does this have to do with the idling? It ran ok for awhile, then the wierdness again. I have new plugs, points, condenser, and its timed. My Avanti lives at 7,000 ft, but I have not had this problem before. Also, replaced Carter AFB with Edelbrock and adjusted it for altitude (have two Carters if anyone is interested). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
I spent about $1,200 on my engine's FINE tunement! It included a brand new carb, ignition wiring, plugs, condenser, fuel filter, etc. I believe that the the final fix was a very, very simple replacement of the of the insulating washer between the condensor wire and its attatchment. It had a very small crack in it.
I hope that you have good luck!
Best regards,
Paul
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hi
Can someone tell me the correct Carter part number for the fuel pump on a '63 Avanti (non supercharged, if that makes a difference)?
While we are on the topic, does anyone know if the fuel pump in question is a "screwed together" or "factory sealed" unit?
I am trying to either buy one or have it rebuilt. Neither is possible without some specifics.
thank you
John - MA
Hello, Again, John,
I did some further research; AOAI magazine issue #121, Winter-Spring, 2003, had a letter to the editor written by Neil Lipes of New York, the owner of a 289 cu. in. '64 R1, R-5188, who has a Carter part number 62706G11B on his car. He stated that it was a direct replacement for the original Studebaker factory pump and required no modifications such as bending any arms to bolt it in and make it work. The '63 and '64 R1 engines were the same.
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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Mobil 1 M1-203 Oil filter?
I have the Mobil 1 M1-203 Oil filter for the Avanti/Studebaker 289. However, the Mobil Filter web does not provide a cross reference to confirm. Anyone *know*?
thanks!
Hello, again, tsterkel,
I have done some more research and have come up with some more oil filters that can be used on both R1 and R2 engines; they are:
Long ones: Fram PH11, Purolator L30005, and Wix 51049.
Short ones: Fram PH25. AC Delco 24, Purolator L20033, and Wix 51258.
I am fairly confident that all of these part numbers are good ones and will work except for the Fram numbers. It may be that my earlier postink on 11/20 which showed the Fram filter, PH11, to be the correct application as the shorter type to be used may have been incorrect. The Purolator and Wix numbers are very solid ones I believe!
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary.
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hi
where would I find a fuel pump for a '63 Avanti? what is the approximate cost of such?
thanks!
John - MA
Hello, Again, John,
I did some further research; AOAI magazine issue #121, Winter-Spring, 2003, had a letter to the editor written by Neil Lipes of New York, the owner of a 289 cu. in. '64 R1, R-5188, who has a Carter part number 62706G11B on his car. He stated that it was a direct replacement for the original Studebaker factory pump and required no modifications such as bending any arms to bolt it in and make it work. The '63 and '64 R1 engines were the same.
Best regards,
Paul D. Eikenbary
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I own a 1960 Hawk that has been fitted with an R2 engine (JTS1072). It gets very warm here in tropical northern Australia. I would like to fit an airconditioner but the Supercharger makes this very difficult. Has anyone done this and if so what information can they provide. Photos, parts descriptions etc.
Hello, again, Ross,
I came across another AOAI magazine article about adding A/C to an R2 engine; it appeared in issue #65, Summer '88.
Best regards,
Paul Eikenbary
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hi
where would I find a fuel pump for a '63 Avanti? what is the approximate cost of such?
thanks!
John - MA
Hello, John,
You could also try local auto parts stores. AOAI magazine issue #62, Fall '87, listed in a parts interchange article, the following Carter part numbers: for R1's and R4's, Studebaker part # 1557213, Carter part # M 3509S or 2063 (which for this second part requires some type of modification); for R2's and R3's, Studebaker part # 1557015, Carter part # M 35008S. I'm not sure if the two M 35... series part numbers contain typos with the number of 0's in the listing in the magazine. I've typed them here as listed in the magazine.
I hope this may help you and good luck,
Paul Eikenbary
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The factory location for the antenna is the top of the left rear quarter panel. The antenna also needs to be grounded to be able to perform properly. It's not like a steel bodied car where the antenna grounds simply from being tightened down to the bodyand receives a big ground plane from all the sheet metal.
Make sure any antenna you install on an Avanti gets grounded securely.
Furthur on the antenna ground: the original Avanti antenna had a grounding strap attached to its body which led down and then under the trunk carpet to a depressed "well" about three inches in diameter to the left of the spare tire wheel well where a bolt was located which was used (I suspect) to hold the body to the frame of the car. The bonding strap was held underneath this bolt head.
By the way, my new Kenwood AM/FM radio works fine for FM reception without the external antenna but doesn't pick up the AM stations without it.
If you need a replacement for your original Avanti antenna, part #AC-3330, which had listed for $139.95 from some suppliers and is no longer available, I have found a replacement source for an antenna which almost is a duplicate of the original at less than one-third of the cost. I also have found a source for replacement antenna cables and connectors should you need them. If so, let me know.
Best regards,
Paul Eikenbary
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I own a 1960 Hawk that has been fitted with an R2 engine (JTS1072). It gets very warm here in tropical northern Australia. I would like to fit an airconditioner but the Supercharger makes this very difficult. Has anyone done this and if so what information can they provide. Photos, parts descriptions etc.
Hello again, Ross,
I noted that you had posted a reply with my original quoted message attached; however, I did not see anything back from you. Was there a "glitch" in the "Add Reply" portion of your effort?
Best regards,
Paul Eikenbary
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I have a '63 Avanti that I purchased new. It was a daily driver until about 5 years ago and has about 360K miles. It's rest period began because of power steering leaks, and I really don't think I want to continue to live with the recurring leaks. There are just too many sources. I am considering going to rack and pinion and would appreciate any input. Is it a good idea, or not? With this many years of driving, I have little concern of trying to keep it original; I want it drivable and reliable. I have seen the complete front end kits for going to custom control arms, finned brakes, and rack and pinion, but it does not appear to be complete, and there are several uncertainties. Any help or input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eddie
Hello, Eddie,
AOAI magazine issue #71, Winter-Spring, Part 1, 1990, had a very detailed article about a conversion to a rack and pinion system. It was not an easy conversion, and there was some trial and error work involved with it. The author reported final satisfaction with the effort.
Best regards,
Paul Eikenbary
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Hi! I have a 1980 Avanti , its an automatic ,my Neutral Safety switch went out, and I am having a hard time trying to replace it, it looks like a chevy switch,does anybody know where I can find one or what type of car I should replace it with ,I would appreciate any help , Perry
Hello, Perry,
I ran across an interesting article in AOAI magazine issue #85, Fall, 1993, regarding the replacement of the back-up light switch with an inexpensive one that is not linkage operated. It required making some easily made custom brackets for its mounting and activation. Perhaps a similar modification would work for you. Who knows, some day your back-up light switch may also break and you would have to replace it also. Getting rid of the linkage-operated switches would be a plus. The modification using the mounting brackets described in the article could perhaps be changed to accept both new switches.
Best regards,
Paul Eikenbary
Voltage Regulator and Radio
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Dear Chris,
Make sure you have ground to the radio. I once had a broken ground connection to my power window. The mechanic was baffled or several days until he remember that the fiberglass body of the Avanti is a good insulator!
Best luck
Paulie