profaqualung
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Posts posted by profaqualung
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SBCA96 [TOM] -
I have a reworked 200R4 in my El Camino - 450+ horse, turbo 383 SBC. It has close to 35,000 miles with this combo, and NO problems. I use it to pull my jetboat, around town cruising. Mileage is in the upper 23's on the road, as opposed to 19-20 with the standard 200 trans.
This trans was done almost 4 years ago, since then, a number of companies have been redoing the 200R4 to handle more power and selling them thru various Chevy restoration companies. ORIGINAL PARTS GROUP has a 200R4 for around $1,500 that will take over 400 horses. Internally, it is basically the same as the mods that were made to my trans - but with newer/improved parts. And I have yet to hear of anybody in the El Camino/Monte Carlo groups that have had any problems with them.
I feel sure there would be a limit on how much power these trannies will handle, but OPG should be able to help with any questions along those lines.
Now, that being said, my boat is hooked to the El Camino, and I am going to the Pearl River to watch the fireworks, and camp out for the rest of the weekend.
Everybody have a safe FOURTH.
Thomas
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All of the sockets on my 70 are pull out - though there were a couple I had to pry out with a small flat blade screwdriver - I should add CAREFULLY pry out.
Thomas
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LNENGINEERING.COM/OIL.HTML
This is a great article [4-17-07] on what properties to look for in the oil that you choose. There was also an article in an issue of HOT ROD magazine about 8 months prior to this article, dealing with the same thing.
Basically, it has to do with the low amounts of Zinc and Phosphorous in many of todays automotive petroleum lubricants.
The bottom line being, if you are running a new engine that has a flat tappet valve assembly, low amounts of Zinc and Phosphorous ARE going to lead to severe and rapid camshaft wear, resulting in engine failure.
This is a very detailed article - but I hope it will prevent some of you from going thru some of the problems a few of my friends have had over the last couple of years.
THOMAS
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IRV83 -
I went thru this same thing back in May - the Sandersons are an excellent suggestion.
However, CORVETTE-PARAGON.COM offers ramhorn headers for the fuel injected small block - they just happen to be 2 1/2 inch. And work great ! ! ! !
Depending on what a/c bracket your vehicle has, you may or may not have to remove a small bracket on the passenger side header.
I ran 2 1/2 inch all the way back thru a set of Flowmasters [after discovering the 'chambered' pipes (w/o mufflers)I originally tried] were entirely TOO loud.
And to dress up the rear a little, I used 2 shortened aluminum rods from a For 460, as rear exhaust hangers, which after polishing, and clear powder coating, match the finish of the stainless exhaust pipe.
Good Luck
Thomas
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INDY -
Actually, the best came from a friend of mine that was at our 45 year high school reunion in Tulsa this past June.
I had just taken him for a ride, and as we got back, on of the caterers came up and asked what kind of car it was.
Hugh replied "Fast - very, very FAST ! ! !"
Nuff Said
TFC3
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This week I celebrate 55 weeks of ownership of my 70 Avanti II - and was looking over a list I have been keeping of the types of vehicles people thought this car was.
Some of them have been from the 'Twilight Zone'
Here they are -
Maserati - 3
The James Bond Car - 4
Aston Martin - 2
Jaguar - 5
Jensen Healey - 2
Valiant/Barracuda - 1
Matador - 2
Porsche - 7 [all in Oklahoma]
Toronado - 1
Austin Healey - 1
Devlin - 1
"Some Kind of Kit Car" - 3 [all in Florida]
Javelin - 2
Lamborghini Muira - 1
Vespa - 1
Henry J -2
Correctly identified as an Avanti - 43 [29 women, and 14 men - the women all said that their dads or granddads had owned one]
And finally, FERRARI - 14 [the reason for this many errors, has to be the inserts in my rims. It is bright yellow, with a black (belligerent) rabbit - courtesy of Terlingua Racing Team. From a distance, is does resemble the prancing horse of Ferrari - especially while spinning].
As I have removed all exterior 'Nameplates', it is understandable about the confusion about what it actually is, but a VESPA ? ? ? ? ?
Have a Happy New Year
TFC3
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Gunslinger was right on target - NAPA.
I have replaced mine - just went in and requested one from a 69 Vette - turns out it also cross matched to a Chevy pickup from the same year.
Who knew ? ? ?
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Another idea that occurs to me, falls into 'WayneC's "service prep. theory.
Has your car been repainted? If so, did they repaint using 'GELCOAT'?
The reason I mention this, is because my car was repainted in the late 80's with gelcoat [some 'Einstein' got the idea that since gelcoat worked so well on boats, why not use it on cars - but without the required surface preperation - and it was popular for a short while] - and according to the previous owner, the paint started 'bubbling' about 10 years later. I was able to grind out the bad areas, and repaint over the old gelcoat without having to go all the way to the fiberglass on the whole car.
BUT - the situation is not hopeless. If the paint can be matched, grind out the offending area [to the fiberglass] - smooth out using a filler with fiberglass mixed into it [this is a MUST - or the bubbles will come back], and touch up like you would any other vehicle.
Thomas
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Kellerbear -
I am somewhat hesitant to mention this method of dropping the front end - in the past it has created a fair amount of flack directed towards me. All I can say in response to the flack is this - it has worked for me.
What I did, was to cut [grinding wheel] one coil out of each of the front springs. Mounted the Magnum 500 rims with 215X65R15 in front - 225X65R15 in back [bridgestone Potenza G009 front & rear] - had the alignment checked - and have then proceeded to 15,437 miles on it in the last 10 months. It runs down the road like it was on rails, and has the stance of a 63 or 64.
The only complaint I had, was ground clearance - but once I replaced the bolts[went to 'buttonheads] on the x-member under the trans, and installed new mufflers and exhaust, the clearance is basically the same as my 69 Vette [with sidepipes] - I take speed bumps in parking lots at slow speed and at an angle - no more bottoming out.
I am also using the steering arms suggested by Wayne - an excellent suggestion.
Good Luck
Thomas
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Wayne -
I had already performed a test fit before leaving the wrecking yard, and after reading your response this afternoon, did a little measuring just to see what the actual difference in offset might be.
As near as I can determine, this new rim sits out from the hub about 3/8" less than the Magnum 500 rim I am currently using - and sits about 1/4 further back. Everything else matches right up - like it was made for the car.
Polishing has been a different story. The main surfaces were not too hard to take care of. Some heavy-duty paint stripper, and then jacking up the back of the car [both wheels], mounting the rim and having my girlfriend operate the throttle while I sit there and let progressively finer grits of sandpaper do all the work. Then some polishing compunds on electric drill buffing wheels and an hour or so later, they shine as well as can be expected from an alloy wheel - except around the lug nuts.
I made an attempt to polish out all the indentations of the basketweave with my Dremel, but gave up - it could be done, but would involve a lot more work than I am prepared to give it at this time. So I painted all the roughcast indentations to match the car, and now I have one rim that really looks good. Will probably look even better chromed, and the indentations painted.
If I decide to use them, it will also allow me to go with a larger tire on rear. I am presently running 225X65R15s on the back, but wanted to go to a 235 or 245. Fender clearance was going to be a problem with the '500' rims. With the 3/8 difference in the Lincoln rim, I can now run the 235, and might even be able to run the 245, but it would be close.
Thanks again for all the help.
Thomas
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Wayne -
I tend to agree with you - I went thru the complete Dayton line of wire wheels, and the closest thing I could find were the "Borrani" style for the foreign sports cars - which I believe were offered at one time on the Avantis of the 80's. All I know for sure, is the gentleman from AVANTISOURCE said they were Daytons.
I did go to a wrecking yard yesterday, and got a 'basketweave' cast wheel from an late model Lincoln, and with my trusty Dremel tool, have been polishing it up. I think that when it is finished, it will bear a strong resemblance to the one on the first Avanti I mentioned [5th down].
The alternative would be to go with some sort of wire wheel - but considering central Mississippi roads [really nothing more than gravel driveways with a press agent] - wire wheels are NOT an option.
Thomas
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WAYNE -
Just got a reply from the gentleman at AVANTISOURCE - the rims are from DAYTON WIRE.
Thomas
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Thanks for the help Wayne.
I have written the AVANTISOURCE website - just have not heard from them yet.
Also, in the 'Kelly/Carafo' section, there is a black convertible with what looks to be the same rims on it - but as with the other pics, they do not give any detail when blown up.
What I was really surprised to see in that section, was the number of cars that seem to be running the Trans Am GTA rims [the ones with the black 'basket weave center]. I was under the impression that the Avanti bolt pattern was Ford/Mopar, and not GM. Or did they change in later years?
Again, thanks for the help, and when I find out what they are, I will let you know.
Thomas
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At AVANTISOURCE.COM/GALLERY_STUDEBAKER.HTM there are a set of rims I wonder if anybody has any idea of what they are?
It is the maroon Avanti [5th car down on the right side]. The rims look similar to a late model Lincoln rim that is either highly polished or chromed.
The 10th car down of the same side, has a somewhat similar rim, and it very well may be the same car, and the rims may look a little different because of the angle they were photographed.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
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Forget the 'Custom Auto Sound' - J U N K ! ! ! ! !
If you want one to fit the opening you already have, Ken Harrieson Ent, INC., has them for the Avanti. They offer 4 models - 100 watt and 200 watt - with auto reverse cassettes and optional [rca input and outputs] cd capabilities.
PLUS - if you order from them, they will also put an "AVANTI" tag on the tape door.
Ecklers, MidAmerica, Original Parts Group and others, have all quit handling the Custom Auto Sound, and replaced them with the Ken Harrisons - they were getting entirely TOO many complaints and returns.
You can also mount the cd player in your glove box - just drill a small hole for wiring and the rca patch cord, and you are in business.
Though, I would suggest upgrading your speakers if you decide on the 200 watt unit.
You will also have to enlarge the shaft holes about 1/8" to the inside, and the rectangular opening will need about an 1/8" off the top.
Good Luck
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Just a quick update, and some interest info.
Weekend before last, we took the blockhuggers - the mandrel tubing bender - and ended up with some 'extended' blockhuggers, that cleared oil filter and actually left some room to get to the plugs.
Last Tuesday I shipped them off to JetHot for some copper colored coating.
Yesterday, my son [who will be out of the country on my birthday], gave me an early bithday present. A set of ram horn headers in 2 1/2 inch - headers from an early 60's model "Fuelie" Vette. Turns out they came from a company called PARAGON REPRODUCTIONS.
So, if one wants 2 1/2 inch exhaust, and wants the convenience of rams horns, this would seem to be the way to go.
Now I am in a quandry as to whether to put the headers my son gave me on my car, or use the ones we sweated all weekend over. Then again, I could always buy another Avanti, and the problem would be solved.
Thomas
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Gentlemen -
Thank you for all the helpful info.
The reason I asked the question in the first place, is because I am running Flowmaster mufflers with stainless 2 1/2 inch exhaust from the mufflers to the rear. Just thought it would be nice having headers and 2 1/2 going into the mufflers.
The Sandersons [or similar block huggers] appear to be the way to go. We did some measuring with the block huggers on my El Camino [DYNOMAX], and concluded they would work, but we are going to extend the tubes and reposition the 4 into 1 collector. Then send them to Jet Hot for some basic 'black'.
Thank goodness for a friend /mechanic who likes a challenge - though I had to pass on his idea of bending me up a set of 'Cobra' [thru the body] style side-pipes.
Thanks again.
Thomas
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I feel certain someone out there has put headers on their Avanti II, and I would really appreciate some help to point me in the right direction, as there is only one speed shop around here, and they have not been very helpful.
Would prefer something a little longer than 'block huggers'. I have a mechanic that has a mandrel tubing bender, but it would be easier if I could find something from another vehicle that would fit.
Thanks in advance.
Thomas
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I realize that I am getting to this topic a little late, but I am going to throw my 2 cents in anyway. I am glad that I had not read all the previous answers before I 'lowered' my 1970 - as it might have scared me into not doing what I did. But on the other hand, it worked and I have had NO handling, clearance, bottoming out, fender rubbing problems at all, except those caused by what Mississippi tries to pass off as highways [most other states would call them 'gravel drive-ways']. But my 69 427 Vette with side pipes has the same problem on the same roads.
What I did, was cut one coil out of each of the front springs - put on 15 X 7 Magnum 500 rims with 215R65 Bridgestone Potenzas. Checked the alignment, and then have put over 6,000 miles in the last 3 months. Maybe not the most technically correct way to do it, but it has worked for me, and looks great [or as a couple of people have said "very predatory"].
Good Luck
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From what I have been able to determine, 'Gunslinger' is correct about the 15 X 6's being standard. Since I planned on putting 215R65's on the front, and 225R65's on the back I went with the 7" wide 500's.
At the time [end of Dec.], the company that was making them, did not have any in stock, and was not going to start production of this particular rim until April.
I found my rims through Tony Branda Cobra - he had all sizes in stock and very reasonably priced. Hope this helps.
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Mr. Booth at Nostalgic knew what I needed better that I did. Instead of the complete cable, all he sent was the 21 tooth gear - and that was ALL it needed. Old gear off - new gear on, and the speedo works. Took all of 7 minutes.
GUNSLINGER - I took my car over to the gentleman I bought it from this afternoon, to show him the new paint, rims, interior. Turns out he had a copy of the Gundry book which he gave me. After looking over the section on accessing first gear, it became quite evident that I DO NOT live in an area where I would feel very confident about the success of such an operation. My 2 transmission gurus are good at what they do, but they both admitted that this was something they would not feel comfortable attempting. This winter it will get the 700R4.
To GUNSLINGER, WAYNEC, TOM, ERNIER -
This has been a very enlightening experience - and I greatly appreciate your help and advice. So if you see a dark copper metallic 70 II, with light tan interior, no external nameplates, and 1/2" stainless wire mess grilles covering the headlights, flag me down - dinner is on me.
Again, thank you very much.
Thomas
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GUNSLINGER -
You make a number of very good points. And as I live in the breeding grounds for the "Bubba mechanics", I am VERY careful on who works on my vehicles. Fortunately I came in contact with a gentleman about 15 years ago, who seems to be able to read my mind as to what I want/expect from my cars/boats - and has just enough of a warped sense of humor, to go along with my wishes to a certain extent.
Now, back to the trans. Cutting off the bracket [that appeared to keep the lever from going into the "1" slot], made NO difference. Something else is preventing pulling the lever back that far - and I wasn't able to determine what it was from the topside - yet. This makes finding the articles you mentioned even more of a priority.
Thomas
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GUNSLINGER -
I keep refering to my trans as a '2-speed' - but from what I have learned in the past few days, who knows? There is a metal bracket bolted to the housing for the shifter that prevents the gearshift lever from being pulled back to "1" notch. What will happen if I remove that bracket, I don't know - but WILL find out very soon. Though I would imagine, as you suggested, there will probably be a lot more involved to accessing 1st gear than removing the bracket.
I have said it before, and will say it again - you and the other gentlemen have been a GREAT help. The more and better information I have, the better questions I can ask of others down the line.
I can't speak for you or the others that are in the process of restoring , or have restored their Avanti's, but it would have been a great help to me personally, to know exactly what I was starting out with - Dodge master cylinder, Ford power brake booster and so on. Mr. Booth has been my major supplier of the parts I have replaced on my car, and an excellent source of information. I know I will be talking to him in the next couple of days, and will bring up the subject of trying to compile a list of what each car originally came with - if possible.
Thanks Again
Thomas
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TOM
You have made the puzzle even more interesting. I have always felt that what I consider "LOW" gear was a little wimpy - sure, with some coaxing it will light up the 225R65's on the back, but it did not really start pulling until about half way thru first gear.
So, forgetting about the speedo cable for a bit [i have one coming to arrive tomorrow, and if it is not right, Jackson Speedo in OKC will make me one up from the old one, or just put a new 21 tooth gear on the old cable], here is what I would like to find out. If this trans is the Flight-o-matic, and there is actually a first gear in there that I am unable to access, what do I do to get all 3 speeds working? ? ? ? ? ?
I read your reply earlier today, and went by BOTH my trans gurus and had them recheck there findings - they still insist it looks like a Ford[AMC] - BUT they both admit, they haven't seen a Ford unit like that in a long time, and, they have NEVER had occassion to see or work on Stude F O M. As a result, they do not know what one looks like, and have never had occassion to work on one [one in business for 24 years, the other for 19 years].
Another problem, is that this is central Mississippi - not a lot of Studes or Avanti II's to compare with. All the surviving Studes [2 Lark Daytona Convert.'s], Avantis [2 63's], are 4 speed cars. The lone 78 II is a turbo 350. So, are there any identifying marks, castings, numbers [and where would they be] to look for?
Just when I think it could NOT get any more jumbled up, along comes another bit of info to help muddy the waters. But in this case, TOO much info is not a bad thing.
Just as a side note, has anyone ever undertaken the task of trying to catalog all the Avantis - serial #'s, options, engine, trans, etc., etc. - Like the Cobra owners registry, or the Pontiac Super Duty registry? Or has it become so 'muddled' over the years, that it would be an impossible task - plus I have no idea of what kind of build records were kept, and if they could be accessed. I ask, because I have a lot of spare time, and would be extremely interested in learning and cataloging the correct history of these cars.
Thomas
Engine Identification
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
R. K. -
And the plot thickens.
The block casting number is located on the drivers side - top rear - near the flywheel attachment.
Block casting numbers for Corvette from 70 to 79 are as follows -3970010 - 3970014
Heads for the same period
3927186 - 300 hp, 350 hp, 370 hp - 1970
3927187 - 350 hp - 1970
3973414 - 370 hp - 1970
3973487 - 270 hp - 330 hp - 1971
3973487 - 200 hp - 255 hp - 1972
3998916 - 255 hp - 1972
3998993 - 200 hp - 1972
3998993 - 190 hp - 1973
330545 - 250 hp - 1973
333882 - 195 & 250 hp - 1974 thru 1977
As for the carburetors used during that period - here are some pertinent numbers
1970 - Rochester #'s 70470202, 7040203, 7040207, 7040212, 7040213, 7040502, 7040503, 7040507, 7040513 - Holley #'s 3972123, 3972121
1971 - Rochester 7041212, 7041213 - Holley 398021
1972 - 7042202, 7042203, 7042902, 7042903 Rochesters - Holley 3999263
1973 -Rochester 7043202, 7043203, 7043212, 7043213
1974 - Rochester 7044206/207/506/507/210
1975 - 7045210/211/222/223
1976 - Rochester 17056206/207/210/211/226/506/507
1977 - " 17057202/203/204/210/211/228/502/504/510/582/584
Hope this does not confused the situation TOO MUCH.
Please be sure to post what the build sheet says is supposed to be in the engine compartment - then we can all speculate what the person who installed the 307 had been drinking.
But, Gunslinger had the best suggestion - if you have to replace the engine, "CRATE" is the ONLY way to go.
Thomas