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DWR46

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Posts posted by DWR46

  1. I am not a big fan of this approach, but I have used it successfully on some pre-war (WWII) cars with badly corroded aluminum water pumps. Coat the pipe on the radiator with a light covering of black silicone (RTV) and then install the hose. The silicone "gasket maker' will fill in any deviations in the seal and you will have no leaks.

  2. I thought I would share the actual measured weight of my Avanti. It is a non-factory built R3. EVERYTHING on the car has been converted to R3 specs, including drivetrain, body, suspension and  interior items. It is an automatic. We always see lots of numbers quoted in magazine articles and the old factory ads, but here are real numbers from our race scales:

    LF: 1.039 lbs

    RF: 1,000 lbs

    LR: 709 lbs

    RR: 688 lbs.

     

    The car had 8 gallons of fuel in it when weighed. Therefore the actual weight of the car is 3,388 lbs. with NO fuel, but including spare tire, lug wrench and jack.

  3. I think Ronman is going in the correct direction. It appears no voltage is going to the ignition coil when the key is in the "start" position. When the key is returned to the "run" position, you get voltage to the coil (or electronic unit). Sometimes you are getting lucky and turning the key back to the "run" position while the motor is still turning enough to start the engine.

  4. Take out the bleed screw. You will find it has a conical indentation instead of a tapered point. The conical indentation is what presses against the ball to seal the bleeder. Many people lose the ball and then tighten the bleeder super tight to try to stop the seepage. All that does is ruin both the bleeder and the ball's seat in the cylinder.

  5. If you want a good basic indoor cover, Covercraft Polycotton Drill (Gray in color) Part # C42PD. I got my from Summit Racing (CVC-C42PD) for $257.51 delivered as they were cheaper than Covercraft themselves.  

  6. Regnalbob: Thank you for your response confirming my thoughts. Based upon your information, and my dates, when do you think the car was "placed in service as a demonstrator"? We know it arrived at the dealership shortly after October 18, 1962, yet the $200.00 credit was not issued until August 14, 1963. Was the car "immediately" used as a demonstrator and finally sold to a retail customer in August 1963?

  7. My Avanti Factory Invoice shows it was Invoiced to a San Diego, CA dealer on October 18, 1962. However, the invoice is also stamped in the lower center section "AVANTI DEMO" with a $200.00 notation and the date August 14, 1963. Can some of the Avanti historians tell me what this means. Obviously I would assume the dealer used the car as a demonstrator and possibly did not actually sell the car to a final customer until August 1963. Does the "$200.00" notation mean the factory reduced the final invoice amount by $200.00, but that was 10 months after the date of the invoice? Did the car come back to the factory for an "update" before being finally sold? Hopefully the experts on the forum can tell me how this process worked and what this all means.

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