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EnduroDriver

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Posts posted by EnduroDriver

  1. I put a set on order back in March, at the end of June contacted Pat and was told they'd received the test articles from the manufacturer and had a couple minor changes to make. Sent an email to Pat at the end of August for an update and it's been all crickets since then. 

    Normally I'd find this kind of thing from vendors to be unacceptable but I've learned (this is my first Studebaker) that this the SOP for the Studebaker world. The wheels on the website look fantastic, I hope all this is worth the wait. I'm going to be very disappointed with myself if this ends up being a dead-end and I end up ordering Holley Vintage wheels after waiting so long. 

  2. Doing rear brakes on the 63R1 and that project is going well but I noticed some more rather questionable modifications done by the previous owner(s). Most of them are either poorly engineered or at least poorly executed but I get what they were trying for. I'm just struggling to figure out why these particular ones were done. Apologize for the picture being upside-down, no matter how modified it it always gets flipped by the website.  

    First they installed air shocks which isn't all that unusual I guess but but short of there being a trailer hitch on the car the only reason I can think of is to raise the back-end of the car, give it some more rake. That brings me to the second mod which is they install 1.5" lowering blocks on the axle perch which seems to be totally counter productive if their intent was to raise the car with the shocks.

    The final mod was the radius rod has been modified. I don't know if it was shortened or lengthened, the current length bolt center to bolt center is 17-7/8". Not sure if they were trying to make this adjustable but ended up welding it or if that's just what they had lying around. The only thing I can think of here is they wanted to adjust the pinion angle.

    Any clues as to what they were trying to do? My first inclination is to restore the original configuration.

       

    20210110_154840.jpg

     

     

  3. Just did this on my 63 (front disc / rear 11" drum) using the kit from Avanti Parts and Restorations, Inc. using a refreshed factory booster as well. Actually the failed booster was the real reason I did this project and just decided now was the time to upgrade the master while I was there. The single circuit master cylinder definitely represents a safety shortcoming of any car of that era. The kit installed pretty easy, the factory lines you'll be connecting to as well as the new lines in the kit will take some tweaking but in general it's no more than a half-day project. 

    Couple tips from my experience:

    1) 3/16 tube bending pliers will be easier to work with in the chassis than a regular tubing bender. I have a Lisle 44150, less than $25

    2) Buy a new brake light pressure switch if yours in mounted on the master, I'm told some are on the pedal, couldn't get mine out of the old master but was lucky enough to have a spare. Don't turn this into a week long project just to save a couple bucks on the sensor.

    3) As with any new master cylinder doing a bench bleed will make everything go smoother.   

    http://avantiparts.biz/dual-master-cylinder-conversion-kit/

     

    Good luck, glad your getting back in the saddle.

     

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