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Everything posted by JensenHealey

  1. Yesterday evening I spent a few hours pulling the gas tank out of the 1989 Convertible. Since this is a 1989 car, it has the gas tank under the floor of the trunk and the filler neck comes out the side of the vehicle on the driver rear quarter panel, just behind and above the rear wheel. Once I got the tank out I was surprised at the size of the tank. According to the replacement tank for a 1989 Caprice sedan, it is 22 gallons. The other thing I was surprised at was how the Avanti plant had modified the original Caprice tank to fit into the 1989 Avanti Convertible. Here is a photo from Rockauto of a replacement gas tank for a 1989 Caprice sedan. Note the rearward facing filler port that would have had a filler neck ending up behind the rear license plate. The 1989 Avanti Convertible tank instead has this rearward facing filler port plated over like this: And then they added a new filler neck onto the back corner of the tank with some crude welds. Anyway I need to drain the old smelly gas out of the tank and then open it up to see what condition it is on the inside. The outside of the tank doesn't look that great.
  2. I pulled the fuel tank this evening. Once it was on the ground, I decided I had enough for the day and came home to make pizza.
  3. No, the small diameter piece of wire is actually supposed to burn through. See the following article on fusible links: https://itstillruns.com/causes-fusible-blow-car-12161001.html When it fails it should look something like this:
  4. I spent another couple hours working on the dead circuits issue on the 1989 convertible this evening. Here are some photos showing what I found when I pulled the wiring harness away from the starter solenoid. Other than the main positive battery cable these are all of the wires that are normally connected to the positive supply lug on the starter solenoid. These are two photos of the main positive battery cable that was connected to the positive input on the starter solenoid. The green corrosion on the cable lug and the rust on the starter terminals do not look very good at all but this turns out to not really be the root cause behind the dead circuits for headlights, taillights, and etc. This blurry photo is a closeup of the main positive connection from the starter solenoid to the positive post on the alternator. Even though the photo is blurry, I hope the greenish corrosion can be seen. This too is bad but yet again this is not the primary cause of the dead circuits. These two molded connectors that make the transition from the fusible links to the regular wiring are the REAL cause of the dead circuits. These molded connectors do not pass any power through them. As a temporary fix to confirm this is the problem I cut these out of the harness ends and replaced them with standard crimped butt connectors to connect the fusible links to the regular wires in the harness and then hooked them all directly up to the positive post on the battery and HEADLIGHTS ARE NOW WORKING!!! Yahoo!!! Next I have to figure out how I want to make a permanent fix.
  5. This evening I finally went over to my shop to investigate this further. I ended up unbolting the starter from the engine block so I could completely disconnect the whole wiring harness from the starter. After doing that and disconnecting a single wire going to a sender (oil pressure perhaps) on the side of the block near the starter, I was able to pull that complete section of the wiring harness up from below the engine to the top of the engine compartment so I could examine it and work on it much easier. I found that there were three 16 gauge fusible links and one 12 gauge fusible link connected to the power post on the starter solenoid. I found a spot on the 12 gauge fusible link that was heavily corroded. I didn't have time to completely confirm this is the issue or even take a photo of the damage. I will do that tomorrow.
  6. Yeah, replacing with a real fuse seems like the way to go. Do you think a 30 amp fuse would be appropriate for that location?
  7. Does a fusible link have a particular rating like a regular fuse or circuit break that determines under what load it will melt?
  8. Based on suggestions from IndyJIm and looking at the power distribution wiring diagram he uploaded recently I have come to the conclusion shown below based on the list of dead circuits I have in my 1989 convertible
  9. Thanks Jim Which specific plug through the firewall are you talking about? I do see what I think is a large bundle of wires in a "plug" like structure going to the firewall but I have not figured out how to "unplug" anything there to examine the inner workings of any connection.
  10. I have posted here before about some issues my 1989 Convertible has with various electrical subsystems that do not work. Briefly the list is: Things that work: starter gauges hazard lights & turnsignals brake lights power windows power top motor (I can hear when working the switch but I don't know if it actually raises or lowers the top) Things that don't work headlights taillights reverse lights gauge lights trunk release gas lid release power seats fuel pump I have continued investigating this and I have discovered that there are two fuses that seem to have no power supplied to them when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. Also there are some BAT power taps that I believe are supposed to be supplied power all the time and these also do not have any power available at any time irrespective of the position of the ignition key. The dead fuse positions are TAIL LP and CTSV-CLK. The Dead power taps are two near the bottom of the fuse box with a label of BAT and another in the upper half of the fuse box labeled LPS or maybe LP5. Can anyone tell me what the LPS or LP5 or BAT power taps are? Also what is the fuse at the very top of the box with the label of C/H ? Am I correct that these BAT power taps should have power continuously? The lower BAT power tap has a red wire and a blue wire going into it. The upper BAT power tap has an orange wire in it. The LPS/LP5 power tap has a grey wire going into it. These can be seen in the lower photo. These are shown in the image below (arrows added to fuse box diagram posted by IndyJim):
  11. Just thought someone might find this photo useful for ID'ing which fuses are which in the fuse block buried up under the dash on my 1989 Convertible If anyone is interested I have a higher resolution version of this same photo.
  12. I cleaned as much of the undercoating off the wires going to the fuel tank on the 1989 convertible so I could try to identify the wire colors. This is what I ended up with:
  13. I will try cleaning the undercoating off the wires and after that I will try to get a friend to help turning the key while I am under the car checking for an electrical signal. Thanks for the hints on the wire colors.
  14. The 1989 convertible with the throttle body fuel injection has an in-the-tank fuel pump. I want to see if it is getting power when I crank the motor but I have to know which wire does what. Here is a photo of the modular harness plug going to the fuel tank. One wire is red and another wire is a lighter color and the third wire is too obscured with undercoating to tell what color it is. Anyone know which wire does what?
  15. The front fenders on both my 1989 convertible (shown below) and the 1988 coupe both show evidence of cracks at the top of one or both fenders. The fenders on the 1988 coupe are much worse than this.
  16. So would this 15" wire wheel have been a Keystone or Appliance wheel? I was just assuming it was a Dayton wire wheel until I saw this wheel chart you posted.
  17. Thank you so much Jim This is a huge help. Just curious though how you happen to have such a thing. Did this documentation come with your car when you got it?
  18. What rear TV ? None of these three cars have any sort of "rear TV" What was this rear TV supposed to be used for? Do you mean a screen for a backup camera?
  19. Yeah, one of the parts people I spoke with about these with talked about that crappy velcro attachment of these parts on the later cars. I think his name was George at Olympus Avanti Strange thing is the 1988 silver blue convertible is car # 286 and it has the four screws holding the bezel on and the lip in the bezel. But the 1988 coupe which is car # 374 has transitioned to the smooth part held on by velcro.
  20. On page 54 of this manual it says: "The headlight wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the light switch. An electrical overload will cause the lights to go on and off. If this happens. have your headlight wiring checked right away." Now I have a separate thread here where I have discussed the fact that even thought I have working brake lights, hazard flashers, and turnsignals, I do not have any working headlights, taillights, or dash lights. Now I am wondering if I might have a bad headlight switch that is not sending power to these circuits (recall no power to fuse 12 for the taillights). For the 1989 cars is this headlight switch with the circuit breaker in it a special custom Avanti part or is this headlight switch a GM part from the doner car? If the headlight switch was malfunctioning would that also cause this condition of no power to fuse 12 for the taillights?
  21. OK, and how am I supposed to find contact info for Dale? I didn't know there was an "Avanti Magazine"
  22. These late 1988 and 1989 cars do not have a trim ring. Thus there is no indent around the edge (about a 1/2 inch in from the outside edge) for the trim ring to fit into. These are completely smooth to the outer edge. I have not been back over to work on that 1988 LSC car lately. I have been working on the 1989 convertible instead.
  23. It turns out these parts are unique to the late 1988 and 1989 cars. I have spoken with studebaker intl and nostalgic motorcars about getting replacements and both have told me these are not the type they supply.
  24. Would it be possible to post a photo of this firewall plug so I know what I am looking for? Thanks
  25. I am missing two of these hubcaps or center covers for the special LSC Coupe wheels. I have attached a front and back side photo of this part as well as a photo of the actual wheel shown on another car from the interwebs.
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